徜徉在歷史的深處

薛　麗

I had almost never heard about the country of San Marino，one of the worlds smallest，before I saw it months ago.

Located in the centre of Italy，the territory of San Marino is only 61 square kilometres(1/9 the size of Pudong)，mostly on hills；the population of formal residents is only 30，000，with 12，000 travelling outside (1/62 that of Pudong).

But travelling in this small land is full of surprises if one knows its rich history.

In the Republic of San Marino，there is a deep-rooted veneration of the Saint Marinus，the legendary founder of the Republic.The legend narrates how the master stone-cutter left his native island of Arbe in Dalmatia and came to Mount Titano to establish a small community of Christians anxious to escape the persecutions of the Roman emperor Diocletian.

What is certain is that the area had been inhabited since prehistoric times，but the earliest definite evidence of a monastery，parish church and castle，which confirm the existence of an organized community on the mountain，only dates back to the Middle Ages.At a time when the authority of the Empire was waning and the temporal power of the Pope had not yet been established，the local people，like those of other Italian city-states，decided to give themselves some form of government.A free city was born.

Today the Republic is independent，democratic and neutral，and still remains faithful to some of its ancient traditions.

The entire centre of the capital，San Marino，is a monument.

Along the cliff edge of Mount Titano stands the three magnificent fortresses，la Guaita，la Cesta and Montale，still linked together by walls and pathways to the town below.In the sunset，all the cliffs and fortresses are bathed in golden sunshine，all walk in the heart of history.People search for corners still preserving the unique atmosphere of ancient times in San Marino most like a scene in a big Hollywood movie about the Middle Ages.

The three castles were all built to defend against intruders.As it is located on the beautiful mountain and not constructed in a heavy military style compared with similar constructions in the same period，walking around the fortresses makes people feel very comfortable and pleasant.Generally speaking，the three fortresses are the biggest attractions for travellers.Among them，la Cesta houses a Museum of Ancient Weapons.

The town itself is surrounded by three enclosures of walls，which include many gateways，towers and ramparts.Most attractive is that，inside the town，the streets and constructions，new or old，are all built in stone.Everything looks exactly as it did hundreds years ago.

There are many museums in the small town，which makes me rather surprised.Art exhibitions，local handicrafts exhibitions，modern weapons，cars and wax sculptures can all be seen.

But I preferred to stay outside with the beautiful view of Mount Titano，hillsides，pine woods and nature parks.The pleasant climate，without extreme heat in summer or cold in winter (the average temperature is 16 C degrees)，makes walking outside a good enjoyment.

There are eight townships scattered throughout the countryside around the central mountain.Castles and churches are worth a visit.

Under the surface of peace and silence，the country is a place that likes an exciting event.In summer，until late in the season，folkloristic events are staged.The most important is undoubtedly the Crossbow Competition in the town of San Marino.This is held on September 3，the National Day of the Republic.

The most exciting thing for women is shopping.San Marino is famous for its artistic ceramics，which can be seen on display in numerous shops.I heard someone bought one jar in a small shop.The picture on it is very impressive： a woman sewing under a lamp，but what she is sewing is not clothes but a piece of broken heart.I tried to find the exact same one but failed.Anyway，the ones with blue prints and San Marino views are also good.

Collectors can buy stamps and coins here，in the State Philatelic and Numismatic Office in the capital.

幾個(gè)月前，我才親眼看見圣馬力諾，這個(gè)世界上最小的國(guó)家之一，此前我?guī)缀鯊臎]聽說過這個(gè)國(guó)家。

圣馬力諾，位于意大利腹地，占地僅六十一平方公里(為浦東面積的九分之一)，而且多為山地；其正式居民僅為三萬(為浦東人口的六十二分之一)，且有一萬兩千人旅居在外。

然而，若是你了解這小塊土地的豐富歷史，你在這個(gè)小國(guó)旅行定會(huì)驚喜不斷。

在圣馬力諾共和國(guó)境內(nèi)，人們深深地崇拜著他們國(guó)家的傳奇締造者——圣馬力諾斯。民間流傳著這樣一個(gè)傳說，說是當(dāng)年這位石匠師父為躲避羅馬皇帝迪奧克勒地昂的迫害，離開了故土(位于達(dá)爾瑪提亞的亞比島)，來到提它諾山，建立了一個(gè)小小的基督徒教區(qū)。

很肯定地說，早在史前時(shí)期就有人居住于圣馬力諾地區(qū)，并在山上建有井然有序的文明社會(huì)，但遺憾的是，如今能夠見證它的悠久歷史的，卻只有那中世紀(jì)的修道院、教堂及城堡。當(dāng)羅馬帝國(guó)日趨衰落，而教皇的世俗勢(shì)力尚未穩(wěn)固時(shí)，圣馬力諾的人民決定像意大利的其它城市小國(guó)一樣建立自己的政府。于是，一個(gè)自由的城邦誕生了。

如今，圣馬力諾是個(gè)獨(dú)立的共和國(guó)，它奉行民主，保持中立，并依然信守著某些古老的傳統(tǒng)。

首府圣馬力諾的中部，就是它的古遺址所在地。

在提它諾山的懸崖峭壁上聳立著三座威嚴(yán)的堡壘——拉怪塔、拉塞斯塔和莽塔勒。三座城堡如今依然城墻相連，山路相通，直達(dá)山下的城鎮(zhèn)。夕陽下，峭壁堡壘盡沐金色余輝，仿佛都行進(jìn)在歷史的深處。人們?cè)谑ヱR力諾的角角落落里尋覓著它那獨(dú)特的古韻遺風(fēng)，頗似好萊塢大片中的中世紀(jì)場(chǎng)景。

當(dāng)初，建造這三座堡壘都是為了抵御外來侵犯者。然而，它們并不像同時(shí)期類似建筑那樣充滿濃重的軍事色彩，因此，徜徉于美麗高山上的古堡要塞之間，你定會(huì)心曠神怡樂而忘返?？偟恼f來，這三座堡壘是游客的最愛之地，其中，拉塞斯塔城堡里還有古代兵器博物館。

圣馬力諾城外環(huán)繞著諸多關(guān)口、塔樓還有大型防御墻，層層相連，形成三大防御墻。這座古城最具魅力的地方就在它的城內(nèi)，這里的街道、建筑，無論新舊，都用石頭建成，看起來都跟幾百年前一樣古樸真切。

令我更驚訝的是，在這座城里竟有那么多的博物館，美術(shù)展、民間手工藝品展、新式武器、汽車以及蠟像作品一應(yīng)俱全。

而我更愛到城外去，領(lǐng)略提它諾山的美景，漫步山坡上，與松林為伴，流連于自然公園里。這里氣候宜人，既無酷暑也無嚴(yán)寒，平均氣溫只有十六攝氏度，漫步于此真乃人生一大快事。

提它諾山的周圍分散著八個(gè)小鎮(zhèn)，那里的城堡和教堂也值得一看。

然而，表面的平靜祥和并不能掩蓋圣馬力諾人對(duì)一項(xiàng)活動(dòng)的狂熱。每年一到夏天，五花八門的鄉(xiāng)俗傳統(tǒng)節(jié)目就會(huì)上演，一直演到夏末。而在這些節(jié)目中最重要的無疑是弓弩比賽，于每年的國(guó)慶日九月三號(hào)在圣馬力諾城舉行。

在圣馬力諾，最令女人們興奮的莫過于逛街購(gòu)物。在這里，藝術(shù)陶瓷制品十分有名，琳瑯滿目的瓷器擺滿了商店。曾經(jīng)有人跟我說他在一家小店里買了一個(gè)罐子，上面的圖案令人印象深刻：一個(gè)女子正在燈下縫補(bǔ)，但她縫補(bǔ)的不是衣服而是一顆破碎的心。后來我試圖去買一個(gè)一模一樣的，但終未如愿。不過，我尋到的幾個(gè)印有藍(lán)色圖案和圣馬力諾風(fēng)景的也不錯(cuò)。

如果你愛好收藏的話，你可到圣馬力諾首府的國(guó)家集郵及錢幣局去，在這里你能買到當(dāng)?shù)剜]票和錢幣?！?/p>