Text&Translation by Bian Jiajin Photos by CFP

WEARABLE AESTHETICS

Text&Translation by Bian Jiajin Photos by CFP

可穿戴的科學(xué)美

可穿戴科技，近兩年在整個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)領(lǐng)域掀起了一陣風(fēng)潮。正如Steve Jobs堅(jiān)信的，那是高科技與審美價(jià)值的交匯點(diǎn)。

當(dāng)可穿戴科技遇上時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)，將會產(chǎn)生什么樣的化學(xué)效應(yīng)？

For the past two years, the whole design field has been largely influenced by the craze of wearable technology. Following Steve Jobs' faith, future product design should be the intersection of science and aesthetics. Yet when wearable tech meets fashion, will there be a new “big bang”? Wearable Tech.

For the fashion industry, the cooperation of iWatch and Hermes in 2015 was so phenomenal that it pointed the way for the development of fashion designing.

As our life has been gradually digitalised with smart technology, the traditional industry, in order to improve costumers' life quality and product experience, needs the assistance of science. Even luxury giants like Hermes want to be among this scientifi c wave. Confronted with the release of iWatch，luxury watch brands are the most anxious ones who want to make a response. And now, Tag Heuer of LVMH and Montblanc have already had their own blueprints drawn up in this new domain. Precision manufacturers have to think abouttechnical transformation in this context.

Many fashion ateliers take a wait-and-see attitude, while some brands have already dipped their toes, even if without a full dive into the deep end. Earlier Ralph Lauren upgraded its classic handbag Ricky, and equipped it with a rechargeable battery and LED lights. But, a handbag with the price tag of 30,000 RMB, not so many ladies can afford hightech fashion. Ralph Lauren eventually limited the sales and made it as a pre-order product. Another similar situation belongs to the over-accessorised headphones of Dolce&Gabbana. This design is not only a high-key fashion accessory, but also about the quality of music. This time, the Italian luxury brand installed its Sicilian lady spirit and fl oral elements into headphone designing. As a result, the price of this musical product appeals only to the higher-classes.

If these above mentioned designs seem too extravagant, how about other smaller designs? Designer brands like Tory Burch and Rebecca Minkoff have both released digital bracelets. This design can easily insert wearable technology into fashion. What's more essential is that the cost for tech-bracelets sounds reasonable, and this is a great chance for such emerging designer brands. On the other hand, these brands are mainly targeted to the American market, so compared to other cultures, small wearable technology is easier to market.

Maybe it is sportswear companies that are always in the frontier of wearable technology. People can see this trend from Nike smart wear, fi rst generation Adidas 3dprint tech shoes Futurecraft, to recent Under Armour's ambitions for digital hardware. Of course, the cosmetic industry needs technology to make itself more convincing and attractive too, so it keeps exploring new grounds in both science and fashion.

Though digitalisation now has been an irreversible tendency, product developers like Steve Jobs, who had enthusiasm for technology, aesthetics and capability are too rare. If there must be a compromise between science and aesthetics, then what's the point of fusing them together? Probably, in the future we'll want such kinds of product engineers, who would see the perfection of technology as the harmony of engineering, and simultaneously could use aesthetics as the universal grammar of design.

對于時(shí)尚界來說，2015年iWatch和Hermes的合作或許是具有里程碑意義的，它指明了時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)的未來發(fā)展方向。

隨著人們生活的日益智能化，傳統(tǒng)的時(shí)尚工業(yè)也需要借助科技，特別是可以很大程度提升人們的生活質(zhì)量和產(chǎn)品體驗(yàn)的可穿戴科技，也難怪連最傳統(tǒng)的皮具巨頭Hermes也企求從中分一杯羹。而面對iWatch的誕生，最需要回應(yīng)的就是奢侈品手表工坊，LVHM旗下的Tag Heuer以及Montblanc等如今都已經(jīng)有了開發(fā)智能領(lǐng)域的藍(lán)圖。在高科技背景下，一貫以精密取勝的名表業(yè)也需要考慮技術(shù)上的轉(zhuǎn)型。

很多老牌時(shí)尚工坊仍在觀望階段，很多品牌雖然躍躍欲試，但也只能淺嘗輒止。早先Ralph Lauren就將其經(jīng)典款式手袋Ricky，發(fā)展成為一種可充電并帶有LED的手包，在保持Ricky經(jīng)典造型的同時(shí)，為它升級。不過，面對3萬多人民幣的售價(jià)，很多女性并不為高科技買賬，品牌方面只能隨后改變成預(yù)訂式的銷售方法。同樣境遇的還有Dolce&Gabbana打造的超級奢華裝飾耳機(jī)，既是高調(diào)的飾品，又是高質(zhì)量的音樂配件。這一次，不僅把品牌熱衷的貴婦精神和西西里的浪漫花卉“安裝”到耳機(jī)上，就連價(jià)格也是超級貴婦級別。

這樣的“大件”行不通，但可穿戴小商品似乎是另一番景象。像Tory Burch、 Rebecca Minkoff等輕奢侈品牌都在不久前推出手環(huán)。它不僅可以將可穿戴科技輕松地融入時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)，而且成本上來說也不高昂，對于這些非頂級品牌來說的確是一個(gè)機(jī)遇。另外，這些品牌主要面向?qū)τ诳萍急容^崇拜的美國市場，相比歐亞，這一切推行起來都要方便許多。

走在可穿戴科技前沿的或許永遠(yuǎn)都是運(yùn)動品牌，NIKE的智能運(yùn)動服、還未成熟的Adidas 3D打印技術(shù)跑鞋F(xiàn)uturecraft系列，以及近來宣布一心要發(fā)展智能硬件的Under Armour。當(dāng)然，還有需要用科技為自身增強(qiáng)信服的美容產(chǎn)業(yè)，也永遠(yuǎn)都在科技和時(shí)尚方面做新的探索。

盡管如今智能化的時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)已經(jīng)成了不可扭轉(zhuǎn)的趨勢，但是真正能夠像Steve Jobs那樣對于科技和美學(xué)甚至是普遍實(shí)用性都同樣執(zhí)著的產(chǎn)品研發(fā)者并不多?？萍己兔缹W(xué)若終究有一方需要妥協(xié)，那么科技與設(shè)計(jì)融合的意義又在哪里呢？

或許，未來我們更需要這樣的產(chǎn)品工程師：其能將科技的完美過程視為工程學(xué)的和諧美學(xué)，又能將傳統(tǒng)美學(xué)價(jià)值作為普世通用的設(shè)計(jì)語法。