楊小亥

烏鎮(zhèn)在10月、11月相繼有戲劇節(jié)、世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)舉行。這兩個(gè)節(jié)會(huì)已經(jīng)完全國(guó)際化，無(wú)論從規(guī)模、質(zhì)量還是影響力上，都有著國(guó)內(nèi)大部分節(jié)會(huì)無(wú)法比擬的魅力。

小小烏鎮(zhèn)在中國(guó)林立的大城市中怎樣蛻變、脫穎而出？

古鎮(zhèn)之變：不變即財(cái)富

很多人第一次了解烏鎮(zhèn)，是在2010年的上海世界博覽會(huì)。

當(dāng)時(shí)，博覽會(huì)的城市最佳實(shí)踐區(qū)（UBPA）以“歷史遺產(chǎn)保護(hù)與再利用”為主題的烏鎮(zhèn)案例館，揭開(kāi)了全部面紗。案例館實(shí)體搭建了街廊、水閣、民居，用皮影戲表演以及磚雕、木雕、竹雕等影像圖片，展示出“烏鎮(zhèn)模式”。這一“實(shí)物模型”是天人合一的保護(hù)與開(kāi)發(fā)的縮影。

烏鎮(zhèn)出過(guò)文學(xué)大家茅盾，他的筆也寫(xiě)不盡那個(gè)水岸人家的幻夢(mèng)。“漫長(zhǎng)的歲月和迢迢千里的遠(yuǎn)隔，從未遮斷我的鄉(xiāng)思。”少年離開(kāi)烏鎮(zhèn)的茅盾在晚年憶起故鄉(xiāng)時(shí)，仍難掩鄉(xiāng)愁。

烏鎮(zhèn)旅游開(kāi)發(fā)有限公司顧問(wèn)邵云是土生土長(zhǎng)的烏鎮(zhèn)人，參與了烏鎮(zhèn)保護(hù)開(kāi)發(fā)的全過(guò)程。他記得，在1985年之前，烏鎮(zhèn)一直靠著“突突突”的小輪船聯(lián)通外界，直到1990年才有了第一條非常顛簸的對(duì)外公路。時(shí)人戲稱：“汽車跳，烏鎮(zhèn)到?！?/p>

交通不便固然有弊，但另一方面，卻保存了烏鎮(zhèn)水村河廓的形態(tài)和風(fēng)貌?！耙耘f修舊，以舊修故?！鄙墼普f(shuō)，這是烏鎮(zhèn)在1999年開(kāi)發(fā)東柵之初定下的保護(hù)宗旨。這一模式，第二年就被聯(lián)合國(guó)教科文組織的特聘專家阿蘭·馬蘭諾斯譽(yù)為古鎮(zhèn)保護(hù)的“烏鎮(zhèn)模式”。盡管當(dāng)時(shí)，江南古鎮(zhèn)周莊已經(jīng)開(kāi)發(fā)。

陸續(xù)開(kāi)發(fā)的還有杭嘉湖、蘇錫常地區(qū)的一些古鎮(zhèn)，它們都有一個(gè)奇怪的場(chǎng)景，電線桿上掛著紅燈籠。但烏鎮(zhèn)卻沒(méi)有：它第一個(gè)將所有的高低壓線路、電視線、通信線路埋到地下，第一個(gè)將排污管道和自來(lái)水管道埋到地下。這“空寂”的理念，在2003年開(kāi)發(fā)烏鎮(zhèn)西柵時(shí)，被很好地秉承。此外，“我們建了兩個(gè)近1萬(wàn)平方米的舊石料、舊石板倉(cāng)庫(kù)和一個(gè)舊木構(gòu)件倉(cāng)庫(kù)?！备鶕?jù)民間口述，修復(fù)時(shí)，全鎮(zhèn)移除了“破門(mén)而入”的現(xiàn)代元素，如水泥板等?！斑@可是大工程??！現(xiàn)在的西柵，有80%還是老底子的東西。”邵云說(shuō)。

正是因?yàn)橛羞@份對(duì)“舊情懷”的依戀，才讓烏鎮(zhèn)人有了世博會(huì)上的厚積薄發(fā)。

文化之變：藝術(shù)即魅力

世博會(huì)造成的轟動(dòng)效應(yīng)是可以看見(jiàn)的，2011年之后，每天半小時(shí)滾動(dòng)出發(fā)來(lái)烏鎮(zhèn)的高速大巴、高鐵列車，帶來(lái)了全國(guó)甚至全世界的游客。2012年，烏鎮(zhèn)位列全國(guó)單個(gè)景點(diǎn)綜合營(yíng)收之首。這意味著，人氣爆棚的云南麗江都無(wú)法與之相比。

游客從八方匯集而來(lái)，就是為了尋找江南風(fēng)味?！霸缇吐?tīng)說(shuō)過(guò)烏鎮(zhèn)，想來(lái)看看這里的小橋流水，感受江南古韻?！睘蹑?zhèn)民宿里，帶著一家三口來(lái)游玩的新加坡客人托尼剝著嘉興粽子對(duì)筆者說(shuō)道。

量變之后迎來(lái)質(zhì)變。也許是看中了這里龐大的游客流量，也許是青睞這里的舊時(shí)光里的小資情緒，2013年，深耕烏鎮(zhèn)景區(qū)多年的陳向宏與華語(yǔ)戲劇界極具影響力的黃磊、賴聲川、孟京輝等人共同發(fā)起了烏鎮(zhèn)戲劇節(jié)?！白尭嗟娜丝吹绞澜鐑?yōu)秀戲劇的魅力，讓?xiě)騽∽呷雽こ０傩占摇笔菫蹑?zhèn)戲劇節(jié)發(fā)起的初衷、追求的目標(biāo)。

他們用“藝術(shù)家辦節(jié)”的態(tài)度，為烏鎮(zhèn)吸引來(lái)更多的關(guān)注。

藝術(shù)家辦節(jié)，在世界范圍都不是一件容易的事情，某種程度上，需要心胸和遠(yuǎn)見(jiàn)。幾年來(lái)，烏鎮(zhèn)戲劇節(jié)自始至終沒(méi)有在任何一個(gè)活動(dòng)上有領(lǐng)導(dǎo)發(fā)言。藝術(shù)總監(jiān)孟京輝對(duì)“藝術(shù)家說(shuō)了算”這件事情頗為自豪，今年的烏鎮(zhèn)戲劇節(jié)能夠拿出驚人的世界八大名團(tuán)，也都完全出于孟京輝的個(gè)人趣味，他直言：“聯(lián)系國(guó)外劇團(tuán)的時(shí)候我就說(shuō)得特明白，能不能來(lái)我就能拍板。”

烏鎮(zhèn)戲劇節(jié)把自己定位成“最好玩的戲劇節(jié)”。孟京輝說(shuō)：“我的烏鎮(zhèn)就是：起床，玩兒，吃好吃的，看戲，看戲，愣神兒；喝咖啡，吃好吃的，看戲，看戲，吃夜宵；喝酒，混沌，胡侃，暈醉，睡覺(jué)，做夢(mèng)?！睂?duì)于大多數(shù)特地趕去烏鎮(zhèn)的文藝青年而言，烏鎮(zhèn)的生活不是這些詞匯的全部，但至少都能沾上一部分。每天看完戲的夜半時(shí)分，滿大街都是需要互相傾訴的人，把酒聊戲，也是戲劇節(jié)的重要組成部分。這也如陳向宏今年自己總結(jié)的：“烏鎮(zhèn)戲劇節(jié)越來(lái)越顯示一個(gè)特點(diǎn)，戲劇節(jié)不是一個(gè)簡(jiǎn)單的文藝節(jié)慶，戲劇節(jié)跟小鎮(zhèn)結(jié)合，成為了一種生活方式?！?/p>

顯然，這種生活方式不僅擴(kuò)大了烏鎮(zhèn)的影響力，更凸現(xiàn)烏鎮(zhèn)的文化基因。

經(jīng)濟(jì)之變：內(nèi)核即推手

2014年，作為日益普及的生活方式的互聯(lián)網(wǎng)，來(lái)到了烏鎮(zhèn)——首屆世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)落地，并被作為永久會(huì)址。

那幾天進(jìn)入烏鎮(zhèn)，隨處可見(jiàn)宣傳海報(bào)。不少游客驚訝，一個(gè)千年詩(shī)意古鎮(zhèn)，一個(gè)前沿科技產(chǎn)業(yè)，兩者怎么就搭上界了？

在全國(guó)尋找會(huì)址時(shí)，專家組提出了三個(gè)條件：一是互聯(lián)網(wǎng)經(jīng)濟(jì)比較發(fā)達(dá)；二是最好能找一個(gè)小鎮(zhèn)，像達(dá)沃斯那樣；三是它能代表中國(guó)幾千年的傳統(tǒng)文化。結(jié)果，烏鎮(zhèn)成為佳麗地。

相比眾多傳統(tǒng)文化小鎮(zhèn)，烏鎮(zhèn)的自由、開(kāi)放最是特立獨(dú)行，而這點(diǎn)，與互聯(lián)網(wǎng)的本質(zhì)貼合得非常之近。

迄今為止兩屆世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)的召開(kāi)，使得這個(gè)小鎮(zhèn)人氣爆棚。但凡在科技圈、互聯(lián)網(wǎng)有點(diǎn)名氣的人物，會(huì)議期間你要是不曬幾張?jiān)跒蹑?zhèn)的照片，都不好意思在朋友圈露面。很多新聞開(kāi)始把烏鎮(zhèn)描繪成互聯(lián)網(wǎng)+經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)展的示范小鎮(zhèn)。有報(bào)道，烏鎮(zhèn)2014年開(kāi)了700多個(gè)會(huì)議。但在首屆互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)之后，烏鎮(zhèn)面臨的最迫切問(wèn)題，是需要修建更高規(guī)格的會(huì)議場(chǎng)地，以滿足越來(lái)越多商務(wù)會(huì)議用戶的需求。

與此同時(shí)，烏鎮(zhèn)今天最被人津津樂(lè)道的標(biāo)簽既不是旅游，也不是會(huì)議經(jīng)濟(jì)，而是互聯(lián)網(wǎng)創(chuàng)業(yè)?；ヂ?lián)網(wǎng)創(chuàng)業(yè)可以突破空間、地域的限制，創(chuàng)造更高倍數(shù)的效益。

烏鎮(zhèn)之變，已帶動(dòng)了整個(gè)桐鄉(xiāng)和嘉興。比如，前不久，中國(guó)創(chuàng)新創(chuàng)業(yè)大賽的互聯(lián)網(wǎng)和移動(dòng)互聯(lián)網(wǎng)行業(yè)總決賽，放在桐鄉(xiāng)了，而令人眼紅的獲勝者福利之一，便是可能在世界互聯(lián)網(wǎng)大會(huì)上與業(yè)界大咖接觸的機(jī)會(huì)。這對(duì)許多當(dāng)?shù)刂圃鞓I(yè)企業(yè)觸動(dòng)極大，他們自己說(shuō)“不觸網(wǎng)就死亡”。另一項(xiàng)數(shù)據(jù)或許可以說(shuō)明問(wèn)題：在外讀書(shū)的嘉興籍大學(xué)生回家鄉(xiāng)就業(yè)的比例逐步提高，今年已達(dá)60%左右，而早些年，這比例只有10%。

互聯(lián)網(wǎng)受年輕人青睞，但烏鎮(zhèn)的互聯(lián)網(wǎng)變革并未拋棄老年人。2015年，烏鎮(zhèn)開(kāi)始嘗試搭建智慧養(yǎng)老綜合服務(wù)平臺(tái)，計(jì)劃用好大數(shù)據(jù)。

有人說(shuō)，烏鎮(zhèn)之變是一個(gè)不可復(fù)制的特例。但深究其文化內(nèi)核和精神特質(zhì)，不難發(fā)現(xiàn)，其實(shí)一切依然有跡可循，是“文化遺產(chǎn)”推動(dòng)經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)展的一個(gè)非常典型的標(biāo)桿。

（本文照片由作者提供）

Wuzhen in the north of Zhejiang is now a cultural phenomenon， but some consider the ancient river town as a successful model for economic growth too.

Thanks to the network of canals and rivers that crisscross the region and connect to all the big cities such as Shanghai， Hangzhou， and Nanjing， the town enjoyed prosperity before this part of the province opened up to modernization. It was hemmed in by the rivers. It was not until 1990 that the town had its first highway. A local ballad testified to the poor conditions of the country road： when the road becomes bumpy you know you are in Wuzhen.

Wuzhen took advantage of the disadvantages in the connection to the outside world and preserved the ancient look and layout of the town. In 1999， the town formulated a principle for future growth when it was drawing blueprints for future. The status quo of the appearance and layout would be maintained no matter how the town would be developed. The preservation principle was lauded by the UNESCO and considered as Wuzhen Model. At that time， similar river towns in the region had taken their steps in development. In retrospect， these towns made some poor choices. Wuzhen chose wisely. In Wuzhen， all the power lines， television cables and telephone lines went underground. And the drainage system and the tap water pipes all went underground too. The town built two 10，000m2 warehouses to store all the old building components and materials from old buildings. When the town underwent a comprehensive refurbishment， modern elements were removed as much as possible and the salvaged components and materials came in again. The town now looks like largely what it was before 1949.

The successful Wuzhen put itself on the world map in 2010. The river town was presented as a case study in the Urban Best Practice Area at 2010 Shanghai World Expo. The presence of Wuzhen at the world expo spoke highly of its success in development and preservation.

This preservation gave the town a momentum for further growth. After the Shanghai World Expo， tourists came in busloads and high-speed trains. In 2012， Wuzhen ranked as the top money maker in the national tourism industry in terms of single scenic zones.

And in 2013， Wuzhen Theater Festival raised its curtains. The annual event has now become arguably the most influential theater event of China. At the 2016 festival， troupes from 13 countries staged nearly 80 plays in 22 genres. The festival has become an international event.

And in 2014， World Internet Conference was inaugurated in Wuzhen. When the national government was looking nationwide at candidates for a venue for this global event， the expert committee gave three priorities that a candidate site must satisfy： the winner should have a relatively strong internet-based economy， it should be a small town like Davos， and it should reflect the traditional China. Wuzhen qualified perfectly and came out as the winner.

Wuzhen has been flourishing economically. In 2014 alone， the town hosted more than 700 meetings. Now the biggest events it hosts annually are the theater festival and the internet conference， both attracting participants from all over the world. Cultural events and tourists may be the most eye-catching components in the business model of Wuzhen， but internet-based entrepreneurship is now playing a key part not only in the towns business but also generates business startups beyond town. Jiaxing， a key city in northern Zhejiang where Wuzhen is located， now offers business opportunities for young people. In the past， only about 10 percent of the locals who graduated from colleges across the country came back to take jobs in Jiaxing. Now more than 60 percent are back to opportunities opened up by Wuzhen.

Wuzhen now allures young people. The theater festival is not just a celebration of theater， star entertainers， and new theater productions. It introduces a way of life to young people. Theatergoers come from all over the country， they watch plays， wander through towns， meet for a cup of coffee， chat about plays and everything else， dreaming， unwinding， forgetting about the world for a moment or two.