蘇健
這個留存了無數(shù)鄉(xiāng)愁記憶的村莊,正是地處大岷山山系的巴巴溝村。巴巴溝村海拔1200米左右,背靠范壩鎮(zhèn)的讓水河流域,與國家級白水江自然保護區(qū)緊緊相連。村落四周群山環(huán)抱,綠樹成蔭,溪水潺潺,風(fēng)景優(yōu)美,一年四季景不同。
村莊原有28戶100余人,如今,村民已整體搬入山下公路沿線和碧口鎮(zhèn)的新家園。或許是故土難離的情結(jié),又或飽含念舊守宗的不舍,一些老人依然在這里守護著祖輩的印記。
據(jù)當?shù)乩先酥v述,他們的祖先來自四川蒼溪。明末清初時期,碧口鎮(zhèn)繁華至極,水運非常發(fā)達,商賈云集,貿(mào)易興隆。當時,無數(shù)的四川人逆水而上,在嘉陵江、白龍江當船夫或以拉纖為生,許多人在碧口、玉壘、范壩、店壩等地娶妻生子、繁衍生息。他們?nèi)∈癁椴?、以石當瓦,以“人”字形木架和石頭壘墻的方式建成石屋。這些石屋鱗次櫛比,錯落有致,別具特色。山村富有建筑美感和歷史人文價值,是“川之北、隴之南”民居的典型代表,保留著鮮明的農(nóng)耕文明和甘川文化特點。
歲月輾轉(zhuǎn),如今,雖然再也追尋不到纖夫們的身影,但這個古村落、這些石板房卻留下了他們用勤勞和智慧、心血與汗水構(gòu)筑家園的記憶。走在村里的石路上,如同穿行于歷史的隧道中,每一步都是那樣的凝重,每一棟老屋仿佛都有一個說不完的故事,每一塊石頭都承載著鄉(xiāng)愁。它們,既是子孫兒女追尋的根,亦是熠熠生輝不滅的傳承。
Century-Old Stone Houses Retain Nostalgia
On the south of the Baishui River, Yulei Township, Wen County, Gansu Province, there is a 400-year-old village dominated by stone. This village that retains numerous old memories is Babagou Village in the Damin Mountains. With an elevation of about 1,200 m, the village, with its back against the Rangshui River Basin in Fanba Town, is closely connected with the Baishui River National Nature Reserve.
The village originally had 28 households (more than 100 people). Now, villagers have moved to their new homes along the highway at the foot of the mountain and Bikou Town. Perhaps, due to a sentimental attachment to hometown or nostalgic feelings, some old people still guard the traces of their ancestors here.
In the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, Bikou Town was bustling, with developed water transport, a galaxy of merchants and booming trade. In that period, numerous people of Sichuan went upstream, worked as boatmen or boat trackers by the Jialing River and the Bailong River. Many of them built families and lived in Bikou, Yulei, Fanba and Dianba. Using stones and tiles as materials, they built stone houses in the forms of inverted V-shaped timber frames and stone walls. These stone houses, row upon row, are well-spaced and distinctive. Showing architectural beauty and historical and humanistic value, the village is a typical representative of the dwellings in “Northern Sichuan and Southern Gansu”, and retains the distinct farming civilization and cultural characteristics of Gansu and Sichuan.
Now, we can no longer see any boat trackers. However, this old village and these stone houses retain their memory of building their homes with diligence, wisdom, effort and sweat. Walking on the stone path of the village, you may feel as if passing through the tunnel of history. Every step is so solemn; every old house seems to have a never-ending story; every stone carries nostalgia. They are not only the roots for posterity to pursue, but also a shining yet undying heritage.