溫州千年古港見證海上絲路

應(yīng)忠彭 戚祥浩

千年古港，遇見“海絲”。

9月28日，溫州朔門古港遺址重大考古發(fā)現(xiàn)在國家文物局“考古中國”重大項(xiàng)目重要進(jìn)展工作會上公布?？脊艑＜曳Q，該遺址規(guī)模大、遺跡全、年代清晰、內(nèi)涵豐富，是城市、港口、航道三位一體的完整體系，堪稱海上絲綢之路的絕佳闡釋，也是海上絲綢之路不可替代的重要節(jié)點(diǎn)。

一時(shí)間，溫州沸騰，大家仿佛看到了千年前溫州北埠的繁榮景象，以及溫州人由此出發(fā)闖世界的場景。千年古港遺址，也揭開了海上絲綢之路的歷史面紗，成為在海絲之路的國際交往中展現(xiàn)中國風(fēng)采的獨(dú)特闡釋，更為當(dāng)今中國踐行“一帶一路”倡議、構(gòu)建人類命運(yùn)共同體提供生動的歷史注腳。

探尋現(xiàn)場，穿越千年的瓷器锃亮依舊

層層疊疊的瓷器碎片堆積在一起，穿越千年而依舊锃光發(fā)亮；石頭壘砌的古港碼頭一個(gè)連著一個(gè)，再現(xiàn)了古時(shí)溫州的海上繁華景象……

古港遺址公布后，我們第一時(shí)間跟隨考古人員來到現(xiàn)場近距離感受這一重大考古發(fā)現(xiàn)，穿越千年，尋找“一片繁華海上頭”的先人遺跡。

溫州市鹿城區(qū)望江東路東首，溫州古城北大門——朔門之外，北鄰甌江，與江心嶼雙塔隔江呼應(yīng)，朔門古港遺址就位于這一古代溫州繁華之地。

2021年，為緩解交通壓力、激活歷史街區(qū)，原本打算將望江東路的地面道路改為下穿隧道，將地面改為休閑公園。據(jù)文物部門介紹，2004年，曾在其附近發(fā)現(xiàn)溫州古城門北門遺址，因此施工開始后就同步介入了考古勘察。

“2021年10月下旬，在地面道路開挖過程中發(fā)現(xiàn)了一些古石條，我們就第一時(shí)間協(xié)助文物部門展開工作?！睖刂菝墙ㄔO(shè)開發(fā)有限公司望江路下穿工程項(xiàng)目負(fù)責(zé)人說，文物部門順著這些石條，在附近發(fā)掘出了越來越多的“寶貝”，不久，整個(gè)工程也就停了。

“小心，踩在泥巴上容易打滑?！睖刂菔形奈锟脊叛芯克L梁巖華跟文物打了幾十年的交道，說起這次發(fā)掘的經(jīng)歷仍難掩興奮，帶我們走進(jìn)現(xiàn)場時(shí)，不忘提醒大家注意安全。

站在厚重的土地上，抬頭望去，一片長約400米、寬10多米的狹長地帶上，分布著大大小小不同的坑基，上面蓋著黑色遮陽布，一些工人正對一旁的泥巴進(jìn)行清理。梁巖華輕輕地?fù)炱饸埩舻囊粋€(gè)瓷器碎片，陽光下，顏色碧綠、紋路清晰、光澤鮮亮。

“我們最初是在東首的水門頭位置發(fā)現(xiàn)了連片的遺跡，之后又發(fā)現(xiàn)了8個(gè)碼頭遺址和兩艘沉船?！绷簬r華說，經(jīng)浙江省文物考古研究所與溫州市文物考古研究所聯(lián)合考古勘探與發(fā)掘，古城水、陸城門相關(guān)建筑遺跡、成組碼頭、磚鋪道路、木質(zhì)棧道、干欄式建筑、水井、灰坑等保存較好的古代遺跡，以及數(shù)以噸計(jì)的宋元瓷片堆積和形式各樣的漆木器等重要遺存逐漸“浮出水面”，各類遺存年代跨度從北宋延續(xù)至民國時(shí)期，尤以宋元為主。

泥里“淘寶”，再現(xiàn)千年繁華海上絲路

地處甌江邊，土層里多淤泥，再加上四五月份多雨水天氣，對考古人員來說是一大考驗(yàn)。只見現(xiàn)場的幾個(gè)坑基里還不時(shí)有水流進(jìn)來，抽水機(jī)隔一定時(shí)間就要開展抽水作業(yè)。

對于現(xiàn)場發(fā)掘的遺存，文物部門還邀請省市專家、全國各科研院所的專家共同參與研究?！艾F(xiàn)在文化研究也要開放平臺，吸引各路‘神仙參與。”梁巖華介紹，對于沉船年代、瓷器的分析等都運(yùn)用了國內(nèi)最先進(jìn)技術(shù)進(jìn)行鑒別。

在考古現(xiàn)場可以看到，由石頭壘起來的古碼頭、棧道等遺跡呈橫向分布，有斜坡式、臺階式。斜坡式碼頭依托山腳基巖而建，用塊石砌筑而成，呈平緩斜坡狀。臺階式碼頭自江岸向航道延伸，平面呈長方形或長條形臺階狀，石包土心結(jié)構(gòu)，碼頭中部填土上墊木板，板上鋪平整方磚，砌筑考究。

據(jù)介紹，遺址發(fā)現(xiàn)的兩艘沉船，其中一艘殘存船頭及部分船體，變形嚴(yán)重，且斷成南北兩段，總殘長12.4米，最大殘寬4.1米。殼板作魚鱗狀搭接，并楔有鐵釘，可見技藝之精湛。根據(jù)隔艙板殘存數(shù)量推測，該船全長約20余米，適合近海航行，被發(fā)掘出來后，已送至博物館封閉保護(hù)。另外一艘還有待挖掘。

在現(xiàn)場，還能清晰地看到一些瓷器碎片。梁巖華介紹，目前已出土了數(shù)以噸計(jì)的古代瓷器殘片，九成以上為龍泉窯產(chǎn)品，專家推斷，應(yīng)該是來自甌江上、下游各個(gè)窯場。絕大多數(shù)的瓷片堆積呈現(xiàn)出條帶狀集中分布的狀態(tài)，且年代集中于元代，堆積特征鮮明。這些瓷片多數(shù)都沒有發(fā)現(xiàn)被使用的痕跡，推測為貿(mào)易瓷在運(yùn)輸、轉(zhuǎn)運(yùn)過程中的損耗品。遺址中還出土了部分溫州漆器、捶丸、磚雕、建筑構(gòu)件以及貝殼、植物種子等豐富遺物。

碼頭、瓷器、木船，仿佛再現(xiàn)了千年前碼頭上船來船往、人聲鼎沸的繁榮交易景象。

抽絲剝繭，揭開千年古港面紗

歷史是根，文化是魂。

一次考古，留下了無限的想象空間。除了實(shí)證，它更見證了浙江這片文化土壤的深厚，見證了“文化浙江”建設(shè)的蹄疾步穩(wěn)。

作為此次遺址發(fā)掘參與者，溫州博物館研究員伍顯軍顯得異常興奮。他在溫州博物館“文物點(diǎn)閱室”介紹了部分“寶貝”。

“元代瓷器，碗的底部有一種拼音文字——八思巴文，這就是八思巴文碗。”“這是建盞，宋代人喜歡斗茶。建盞是一種在建窯時(shí)期燒制成的帶有黑釉的茶碗，其外表為黑色，經(jīng)常作為斗茶工具使用。這個(gè)建盞上有金絲兔毫紋路。”

除了出自龍泉窯的瓷品之外，其他窯系有甌窯褐彩繪瓷、建窯系黑釉瓷（建窯、遇林亭窯、茶洋窯、吉州窯）、青白瓷系（義窯、景德鎮(zhèn)窯）等。部分瓷器外底有墨書，如“姓氏+置”“置”“東”“西”“上”“綱”等。

“按目前進(jìn)程預(yù)計(jì)，此次發(fā)掘的大量瓷器中，基本上能夠修復(fù)完整的至少有1800件以上。”伍顯軍說，這批瓷器大多是生活用具，非常精美，而且內(nèi)外紋飾藝術(shù)性非常強(qiáng)，比如對蓮花紋、戳點(diǎn)紋的運(yùn)用，呈現(xiàn)出自由發(fā)揮、不受拘束的風(fēng)格特點(diǎn)，具有濃郁的鄉(xiāng)村生活氣息。

“考古除了關(guān)注瓷器本身之外，還要關(guān)注當(dāng)時(shí)人們的生活狀態(tài)，這次就發(fā)現(xiàn)了大量溫州食物標(biāo)本，比如稻谷。我們還發(fā)現(xiàn)了很多貝類，如貝殼、釘螺，這種釘螺是當(dāng)時(shí)溫州人喜歡吃的?？脊胚€發(fā)現(xiàn)了荔枝、橄欖、桃子等果核，加上發(fā)掘的建筑遺址、茶盞、酒瓶等，可以想象當(dāng)時(shí)在這個(gè)海邊，可能有人在喝茶或喝酒，畫面感很強(qiáng)?！蔽轱@軍說。

“文物點(diǎn)閱室”展示的文物中有一對捶丸特別引人注目?！霸谒未?，唐代的馬布球演變成了捶丸運(yùn)動，大人小孩都很喜歡。捶丸小巧玲瓏，說明宋代人精神世界豐富，而且富有雅趣?！蔽轱@軍說，此次發(fā)掘還在陡門南邊發(fā)現(xiàn)了唐代晚期的瓦當(dāng)、中亞地區(qū)傳過來的琉璃，“這些都說明，當(dāng)時(shí)我們這邊也是重要港口，中亞地區(qū)的產(chǎn)品輸入溫州”。

此次發(fā)掘的瓷器中還有大批甌窯，包括溫州西山窯?！八未鷷r(shí)期，西山窯走向頂峰，有幾十個(gè)窯在工作，出來的瓷器非常精美?！蔽轱@軍說，還有非常精美的腰鼓等甌窯瓷器，展現(xiàn)了溫州特有的文化。

發(fā)掘的眾多遺跡遺物中，沉船是一個(gè)焦點(diǎn)。專家通過碼頭岸線鑒定，一艘為南宋船，另一艘為北宋船。

“目前南宋船已被全部運(yùn)往特定地點(diǎn)保存，由專業(yè)技術(shù)人員進(jìn)行封裝保存?！睖刂菔形奈锟脊叛芯克彼L劉團(tuán)徽介紹，另一艘北宋船還未出土，露在表面的船部結(jié)構(gòu)已用土工布遮蓋，防止被太陽暴曬引起干裂。

對于沉船之謎，專家們有三個(gè)版本的推測。第一個(gè)版本：沉船為當(dāng)時(shí)因船體壞損無法修復(fù)而被人為廢棄，和此前發(fā)現(xiàn)的“瓷片帶”類似，被廢棄在江邊。第二個(gè)版本：由于沉船周邊發(fā)現(xiàn)了瓷器、銅錢等文物，有可能是遭遇臺風(fēng)或巨大風(fēng)浪，沉沒后被浪沖到江岸邊，最終被深埋。第三個(gè)版本：兩艘船在近海沉沒，被人打撈回岸，長期閑置江邊，經(jīng)過歲月更迭、岸線推移，最終被埋入土中。

千年商港，溫州人從這里走向世界

現(xiàn)如今，溫州有海外僑胞、港澳同胞近70萬人，在海外131個(gè)國家和地區(qū)組建了300余個(gè)溫籍僑團(tuán)，有38萬溫州人在“一帶一路”沿線57個(gè)國家和地區(qū)創(chuàng)業(yè)發(fā)展。

溫州人走世界的故事，從千年前就已經(jīng)開始?！耙黄比A海上頭”“甌居海中”，溫州自東晉建城伊始，其城就與港口、江海密不可分，有著“東南之沃壤，一都之巨會”的美譽(yù)。

置身于龐大的遺址群前，腦海中浮現(xiàn)出元代畫家王振鵬的《江山勝覽圖》，這一刻，我們仿佛置身于繁華的溫州古城：穿過水陸城門，眼前是熱鬧喧囂的碼頭、商鋪，來自世界各地的船舶或?？炕蜻h(yuǎn)行。入夜，江心的古塔上點(diǎn)起了刺破夜空的長燈，照亮一艘艘遠(yuǎn)赴重洋的行船。海上絲綢之路的溫州節(jié)點(diǎn)，是男兒們乘風(fēng)破浪的起點(diǎn)。

大航海時(shí)代之前，海上絲綢之路已興盛千年。

“云帆高張，晝夜星馳，涉彼狂瀾，若履通衢?！敝腥A民族的先輩們沿著海岸線，從寧波港、溫州港、泉州港、廣州港等揚(yáng)帆出海，穿越驚濤巨浪，闖蕩出聯(lián)系東西方的一條海上絲綢之路。

在古港遺址，大量文物遺存于千年的靜默無聲中訴說著向海而生、因海而興的故事。

遺址地層與遺跡中出土了大量古代遺物，尤以瓷器殘片堆積最為豐富，并主要以宋元時(shí)期龍泉窯殘片為主，當(dāng)為貿(mào)易損耗品堆積遺存?？梢韵胍?，數(shù)量龐大的龍泉瓷器，沿著甌江下游從溫州入海，走向世界。

海上絲綢之路，不僅是中西方商品貿(mào)易之路，更是中西文化交融之路。包括溫州港等在內(nèi)的眾多港口，如璀璨的珍珠，見證著各國人民利益交匯、情感交融的歷史。

海上絲綢之路，始終是開放的產(chǎn)物，更是開放的助推力。千年來，一代代溫州人順著這條路走向全球，編織起全球貿(mào)易網(wǎng)絡(luò)，種植下“世界溫州人”的美名。

當(dāng)海風(fēng)吹拂千年，當(dāng)足跡遍及世界，溫州人成為中國人勇于探索、開放通達(dá)、交融合作的一個(gè)縮影。所有在海上絲路中闖蕩的故事，亦融入了世界的記憶，成為世界人民共同的精神財(cái)富。

此刻，站在古港遺址前，我們聆聽千年的回響——

從甌江出發(fā)，跨過山巒起伏的大陸走向浩瀚無涯的海洋，江心孤塔黑夜長明，年年歲歲指引著海上的勇士搏擊巨浪，也召喚著離家的親人早日歸來。

Wenzhous Millennium-Old Port and the Maritime Silk Road

By Ying Zhongpeng ?Qi Xianghao

On September 28， major archaeological discoveries of the Shuomen Ancient Port Site in Wenzhou were announced at the progress meeting of project “Archaeological China” organized by the State Administration of Cultural Heritage. Archaeologists said that the site features large-scale， complete relics， clear date and rich connotation. It is an integrated system of cities， ports and waterways， which can be regarded as an excellent interpretation of the Maritime Silk Road and an irreplaceable node as well.

Immediately afterwards， the city of Wenzhou was filled with excitement and everyone seemed to have witnessed the prosperous Northern Port of Wenzhou a thousand years ago， and the scene of Wenzhounese setting out for the world. The millennium-old port site has also unveiled the history of the Maritime Silk Road.

Right after the announcement， we followed archaeologists to the site to closely experience this major archaeological discovery and search for the relics of ancestors “on a prosperous sea”， which is located at the east end of Wangjiang East Road， Lucheng district， and outside Shuomen， the north gate of the ancient city of Wenzhou， a prosperous place since the ancient times.

Standing on the thick soil and looking up， we saw a narrow strip of about 400 meters long and a dozen meters wide， which were spread with pit foundations covered with black sunshade cloth. Liang Yanhua， director of the Wenzhou Institute of Cultural Relics and Archaeology， gently picked up a piece of the remaining porcelain. Under the sun， it shone green， with clear lines and bright luster.

“At first， we found a series of relics at Shuimentou to the east， and then eight dock sites and two sunken ships，” Liang explained. The relics span over a long history， from the 10th to the 20th centuries， especially rich in the 11th-14th centuries during the Song （960-1279） and Yuan （1206-1368） dynasties.

The site is located near the Oujiang River， with silt in the soil， and rainy weather in April and May was always an ordeal for archaeologists. In several pit foundations， water was still oozing in from time to time， so pumping operation started at regular intervals.

As is reported， two sunken ships have been found， one of which has a residual bow and part of its hull， both seriously deformed. The ship was broken into two parts， with a total residual length of 12.4 meters and a maximum residual width of 4.1 meters. The shell planks were lapped like fish scales and wedged with nails， showing superb workmanship. It is speculated from the number of its remaining partition boards that the ship was 20-odd meters long， suitable for offshore navigation. After its excavation， it has been sent to the local museum for sealed preservation. The other ship has yet to be excavated.

At the scene， we saw some porcelain fragments. Liang told us that tons of ancient porcelain fragments have been unearthed， more than 90 percent of which are products of Longquan Kiln. Experts concluded that they should have come from various kilns upstream and downstream of the Oujiang River. Whats more， some Wenzhou lacquerware， chuiwan （hammer balls）， brick carvings， building components， seashells， plant seeds and other relics were also unearthed at the site. All of these seem to reproduce the scene of bustling people and prosperous transactions when they came and went on ships at the wharf a thousand years ago.

An archeological job has left an infinite space for imagination. In addition to empirical evidence， it has revealed the profundity of Zhejiang's cultural richness and the rapid and steady progress of the construction of a “cultural Zhejiang”.

As one of the excavators， Wu Xianjun， a researcher at the Wenzhou Museum， was very excited these days. He showed us some “treasures” in the Museum， such as a Yuan-dynasty bowl printed with a Phags-pa script on its bottom， a Fujian Kiln teacup with dark glaze and golden brush patterns. “From the current process， it is estimated that at least 1，800 porcelain pieces can be basically restored，” Wu said. Most of these porcelain products are household appliances， with exquisite artistic decorative patterns both inside and outside.

Among the cultural relics displayed in the “Cultural Relics Reading Room”， a pair of chuiwan balls is particularly eye-catching， “which are small and exquisite sports ware， showing the rich spiritual world and elegance of people in the Song dynasty，” Wu said.

To the south of Doumen Gate， eaves tiles made in the late Tang dynasty （618-907） and colored glaze from Central Asia are also found. “This shows that Wenzhou was also an important port at that time， and products from Central Asia were imported here.” A large number of Ou Kiln porcelains were found as well， including fine Xishan Kiln porcelain from Wenzhou， which reached its peak in the Song era. According to Wu， such Ou Kiln porcelain as an exquisite waist drum represents the unique culture in Wenzhou.

Among the numerous relics excavated， focus is placed on the shipwrecks. Judging from the wharf shoreline， the experts identified one wreck as a Southern Song dynasty （1127-1279） ship and the other as a Northern Song dynasty （960-1127） ship.

Today， Wenzhou boasts nearly 700，000 overseas Chinese compatriots; more than 300 Wenzhou overseas Chinese groups have been established in 131 countries and regions， and 380，000 Wenzhounese have started and developed their businesses in 57 countries and regions along the “Belt and Road”.

The story of Wenzhounese making a living overseas started a thousand years ago. Since the ancient city of Wenzhou was founded in the year 323， it has integrated with harbors， rivers and seas， and has a reputation as “a fertile land and a giant city”.

As we stand before the enormous sites， the painting Landscape of Rivers and Mountains by Yuan painter Wang Zhenpeng comes to mind. At that moment， we seem to be situated in the prosperous ancient Wenzhou：

Passing through the land and water city gates， we can see the bustling docks， shops， and ships from all over the world. By night， a long lamp that pierces the night sky is lit in the ancient pagoda in the middle of the river， illuminating ships sailing to the ocean. Wenzhou， sitting along the Maritime Silk Road， is always the starting point for Wenzhounese as pioneers in the world.

Across the vast ocean， the Maritime Silk Road is not only a route for Chinese and Western trade， but also a road for the integration of Chinese and Western cultures. Ports， including the Wenzhou Port， are like bright pearls witnessing the convergence of interests and feelings of various peoples.

Now， standing in front of the ancient harbor site， we listen to the echo of the millennium. Starting from the Oujiang River， we cross the undulating continent to the vast ocean. The lonely pagoda in the middle of the river is always bright at night， guiding the warriors in the sea to fight the waves day and night， and calling the wandering loved ones to return as soon as possible.