在濟(jì)南看完了大明湖,就是看這里天下馳名的泉水了。這里著名的共有三道泉,就是黑虎泉、珍珠泉和趵突泉。珍珠泉在省人民政府之內(nèi),這里不談。黑虎泉離朋友家中不遠(yuǎn),轉(zhuǎn)彎就到。泉是三股,三個(gè)虎頭,由地上噴出來(lái)。泉的前面,有一濠。人家的濠都是渾水,這里卻是清水,因?yàn)檫@里從前是南門(mén)外,所以有這道濠。現(xiàn)在拆了城墻,填平大馬路,所以看不出是濠。
黑虎泉看過(guò),我們?nèi)タ歹劳蝗?。這里趵突泉是濟(jì)南七十二名泉中第一泉,所以人都要看。出了西門(mén),由一條人行巷中前行,還沒(méi)有到泉,就見(jiàn)兩旁水溝,水勢(shì)非常洶涌。后來(lái)進(jìn)了泉門(mén),一看已建筑了兩重房屋。一座大池子,水中間涌出幾粒細(xì)珠,池旁有石碑,上刻“第一泉”三個(gè)字。這里已有很多人觀看。再過(guò)去,池頭搭了一座平板石橋,隔橋觀看,只見(jiàn)池的中間,忽從地底下翻涌泉水出來(lái),這泉真的有水桶那么粗,頭上盡翻白色,這就是趵突泉了。據(jù)《老殘游記》里說(shuō),共有三個(gè)。我們只看到一個(gè)。是老殘夸大哩,還是幾十年前,真有三個(gè)呢?這還得問(wèn)老濟(jì)南。這里有一座茶社,我們便進(jìn)去泡了一壺茶,坐下對(duì)這泉水仔細(xì)地觀看??戳嗽S久,只覺(jué)是泉頭那樣粗大,周年不息,這真是一奇。據(jù)說(shuō),還是周年不凍,無(wú)論怎樣冷,泉水還是洶涌地流注。這一池水,自然很清,但是池塘底下,常常冒出一股清泉,比這水還清似的,慢慢涌到水面,有洄紋流起,你看得很清楚,這種泉水還很多,只看那洄紋,去了一個(gè),又上來(lái)一個(gè),這也不是別處泉水里所能看到的。古來(lái)人家賞玩趵突泉,總題上兩句詩(shī)?!峨S園詩(shī)話(huà)》中有句“倒翻廬阜瀑,長(zhǎng)涌浙江潮”。但是夸大得可以,太不近乎寫(xiě)實(shí)了。看這泉流,坐了許久。后來(lái)我想起濟(jì)南朋友常常告訴我,濟(jì)南蒲菜很不錯(cuò),就讓朋友請(qǐng)我上了一回館子,要的菜是黃河鯉魚(yú)、清燉蒲菜。據(jù)館子里人相告,還是大明湖的蒲菜呢。
濟(jì)南耽擱兩天,我便坐火車(chē)回北京。沿途拉雜寫(xiě)成“雜志”,自愧無(wú)生花妙筆,描繪不出祖國(guó)錦繡河山。
When in Jinan, after visiting Daming Lake, one must see the world-renowned springs. There are three famous springs here: Black Tiger Spring, Pearl Spring, and Baotu Spring. Black Tiger Spring is conveniently located near my friend’s home, just a short walk away. The spring features three tiger heads from which water gushes forth from the ground. In front of the spring, there is a moat. Unlike typical moats which contain murky water, this one is crystal clear because it used to be outside the South Gate. Now that the city walls have been demolished and the roads paved, it no longer looks like a moat. I spent a considerable amount of time watching the flow of the spring. Later, thinking about what my friends in Jinan often tell me—that the local Pu Cai (a type of vegetable dish) is excellent—I asked them to take me out to eat. According to the restaurant staff, the Pu Cai we enjoyed was sourced from Daming Lake.