Ａｎｎａ?。停幔颍椋濉。郑铮欤穑?/p>

Open an old Italian cookbook, browse through the index and… surprise! No recipe for Tiramisu. My first encounter with Tiramisu was in 1985. I was in Italy at that time: A friend of mine told me about this new cake recipe she had just acquired. She was so enthusiastic about it that I felt compelled to try it immediately. The taste was unbelievably good, better than anything I'd ever had before, and since then I have been in love with this dessert.

打開(kāi)一本古老的意大利菜譜，隨意瀏覽索引和……讓人很驚訝！居然沒(méi)有提拉米蘇的制作方法。我在1985年邂逅提拉米蘇。那個(gè)時(shí)侯我在意大利：我的一個(gè)朋友將她剛得到的這種新型糕點(diǎn)的制作法告知于我。她滿腔熱情，讓我感到自己被迫立即進(jìn)行實(shí)踐。味道美得叫人難以置信，比我吃過(guò)的任何東西都美味，從此，我便愛(ài)上了這道甜點(diǎn)。

Everybody knows by now that Tiramisu means "pick-me-up" in Italian, for the high energy content (eggs and sugar) and the caffeine of the strong espresso coffee. There are many different stories about the origin of Tiramisu. It is a layered cake, and therefore some people place its origin in Tuscany, where another famous layered Italian dessert is very popular. It is called "Zuppa Inglese" (English Soup). It is not English and it is not a soup. Instead, it is a simple cake of ladyfingers or sponge cake, soaked in liquor, and alternating layers of chocolate and egg custard.Layered cakes have been around for a long time. The brilliant idea in Tiramisu is not in the technique of layering, but in the components. The great invention is combining together coffee, cream, and chocolate: This is the true innovation of Tiramisu

現(xiàn)在大家都知道“提拉米蘇”在意大利語(yǔ)中的意思是“興奮劑”，因?yàn)樗懈吣芰课镔|(zhì)（雞蛋和糖）和濃縮咖啡的咖啡因。關(guān)于提拉米蘇由來(lái)的故事千差萬(wàn)別。這是一種夾心糕點(diǎn)，因此，一些人認(rèn)為它來(lái)自托斯卡納，在那里，另一種意大利夾心甜點(diǎn)非常受人們的喜愛(ài)，叫做“Zuppa Inglese（英國(guó)湯）”。它既非來(lái)自英國(guó)亦非湯，而是一種浸泡在酒里的簡(jiǎn)單的松脆餅或松糕，并且在不同層面上輪次涂有巧克力和牛奶蛋羹。夾心糕點(diǎn)存在已久。提拉米蘇之妙不在于糕點(diǎn)的分層技術(shù)，而在于它的成分。這個(gè)偉大的發(fā)明集咖啡、乳脂和巧克力于一體：這才是提拉米蘇的真正創(chuàng)新。

The first clue is by the famous Italian gastronome Giuseppe Maffioli. In his book "Il ghiottone Veneto", (The Venetian Glutton) first published in 1968, he talks extensively about Zabaglione custard. The name of this cream originates from Zabaja, a sweet dessert popular in the Illyria region. It is the coastal area across the Adriatic Sea that was Venetian territory for a long time during the golden age of the "Repubblica Serenissima" (The Most Serene Republic) of Venice. Zabaglione was prepared in those times with sweet Cyprus wine.

線索首先來(lái)自著名的意大利美食家Giuseppe Maffioli。他在自己首版于1968年的《Il ghiottone Veneto》（威尼斯貪食者）這本書(shū)中，大篇幅地談?wù)撘獯罄瘘c(diǎn)Zabaglione。這個(gè)乳脂的名字源于扎巴亞，是一種廣受伊利里亞地區(qū)人們喜愛(ài)的甜點(diǎn)。伊利里亞地區(qū)是亞得里亞海對(duì)岸的沿海地區(qū)，在威尼斯“圣馬力諾共和國(guó)（最和諧安寧的共和國(guó)）”的鼎盛時(shí)期曾長(zhǎng)期隸屬于威尼斯。那時(shí)的Zabaglione是用賽普洛斯甜酒配制的。

"The groom's bachelor friends", says Maffioli, "at the end of the long wedding banquet, maliciously teasing, gave to him before the couple retired a big bottle of zabajon, to guarantee a successful and prolonged honeymoon." "The zabajon", Maffioli continues, "was sometimes added to whipped cream, but in this case was served very cold, almost frozen, and accompanied by the baicoli, small thin Venetian cookies invented in the 1700's by a baker in the Santa Margherita suburb of Venice". The addition of whipped cream, the serving temperature, the cookies, all these elements are close to the modern Tiramisu recipe. And even the allusion to the energetic properties of the Zabaglione seems to refer to the name Tiramisu.

“新郎的單身朋友們”，Maffioli說(shuō)道，“在漫長(zhǎng)的婚宴結(jié)束后，故意挑逗說(shuō)在這對(duì)夫妻休息之前給新郎一大瓶沙巴瓊以擔(dān)保他們會(huì)度過(guò)一個(gè)幸福長(zhǎng)久的蜜月。”“沙巴瓊”，Maffioli繼續(xù)說(shuō)道，“有的時(shí)候會(huì)摻進(jìn)鮮奶油，這樣的話，它被端出來(lái)的時(shí)候是冰涼的，幾近成冰，另外還配上baicoli，這是十八世紀(jì)由威尼斯圣瑪格麗塔郊區(qū)的一個(gè)面包師發(fā)明的一種又小又薄的威尼斯餅干。”鮮奶油的添加、一定的溫度，再加上這種餅干，所有這些基本原理都與現(xiàn)在的提拉米蘇制作法相似。甚至間接提到的Zabaglione使人充滿活力的特性似乎就是指提拉米蘇這個(gè)名字。

Later in my research the oldest recipe I could find was in the book by Giovanni Capnist "I Dolci del Veneto" (The Desserts of Veneto). The first edition was published in 1983 and has a classic recipe for Tiramisu. "Recent recipe with infinite variations from the town of Treviso", says Capnist, "discovery of restaurants more than family tradition".

在我后來(lái)的研究中，我能找到的最早的菜譜來(lái)自Giovanni Capnist的《I Dolci del Veneto》（威尼托的甜點(diǎn)）這本書(shū)。該書(shū)首版于1983年，列出了提拉米蘇的經(jīng)典制作法?！敖鼇?lái)從特雷維索城流傳出來(lái)的制作法千姿百態(tài)”，Capnist說(shuō)道，“由餐館發(fā)明出的制作法遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)超過(guò)家庭的傳統(tǒng)制作法?！?/p>

But the final word on the origin of Tiramisu is from the book by Fernando e Tina Raris "La Marca Gastronomica" published in 1998, a book entirely dedicated to the cuisine of the town of Treviso. The authors remember what Giuseppe Maffioli wrote in an article in 1981: "Tiramisu was born recently, just 10 years ago in the town of Treviso. It was proposed for the first time in the restaurant Le Beccherie. The dessert and its name became extremely popular immediately, and this cake and the name were copied by many restaurants, first in Treviso, then all around Italy".

但提拉米蘇來(lái)源的最終定論是來(lái)自Fernando e Tina Raris于1998年出版的《La Marca Gastronomica》，這本書(shū)專為特雷維索城的美食而著。作者們記載了Giuseppe Maffioli曾在1981年的一篇文章中寫到：“提拉米蘇是近期出現(xiàn)的，僅在10年前出現(xiàn)在特雷維索城。Le Beccherie餐館首次提議制作提拉米蘇。該甜點(diǎn)及名字立即廣受歡迎，很多餐館紛紛效仿制作并抄襲它的名字，首先是特雷維索城，然后是整個(gè)意大利?！?/p>

Tiramisu Recipe

提拉米蘇制作秘訣

First, start by assembling the ingredients. We'll need one pound of mascarpone cheese, a cup of heavy whipping cream, 1/2 cup granulated sugar, 3 tablespoons rum (brandy also works well), ~20 lady's fingers (a light, oblong Italian cookie with powdered sugar on one side), cocoa powder, a double shot (about 2 to 3 ounces) of espresso, 1/2 cup of prepared coffee, and shavings of unsweetened dark chocolate to top (1oz. should do).

首先，準(zhǔn)備好材料。我們需要一磅馬斯卡彭芝士、一杯濃鮮奶油、半杯砂糖、三大勺朗姆酒（或白蘭地），約20片小松糕（一種長(zhǎng)形一面灑有糖粉、味道清淡的意大利餅干）、可可粉、兩小杯（約2至3盎司）濃縮咖啡、半杯沖好的咖啡和無(wú)糖黑巧克力刨片（撒在蛋糕頂層）（約1盎司）。

Chill whipping cream and bowl. Mix coffee and espresso and chill.

將鮮奶油倒入碗里放入冰箱冷凍。將咖啡和濃縮咖啡混合后進(jìn)行冷凍。

Whisk the whipping cream until it reaches stiff peaks. This can be accomplished in a few minutes with an electric mixer or by hand (times will vary depending on arm strength and stamina).

攪打鮮奶油直至粘稠狀態(tài)。用電動(dòng)打蛋器或人工攪打幾分鐘即可（時(shí)間長(zhǎng)短根據(jù)臂力和耐力來(lái)決定）。

Put the cheese, sugar, and brandy into a medium bowl and mix until smooth. Add more sugar or alcohol as desired.

將芝士、糖和白蘭地放入一個(gè)中碗，然后進(jìn)行攪打直到液體變均勻。按需添加糖或酒。

Fold in the whipped cream to create the cheese mixture.

將鮮奶油分幾步加入，制作混合芝士，加入過(guò)程中不斷攪打。

Soak lady fingers in espresso for a couple seconds, rotating to coat all sides. Place lady fingers side by side on bottom of a 8x8-in. pan.

將小松糕放入濃縮咖啡浸泡2秒鐘，將之翻滾使周身都沾滿咖啡。然后將小松糕排放在8x8英寸的平底鍋。

Put half the cheese mixture on lady fingers in pan. Smooth with a spatula or spoon.

將一半混合芝士放到鍋里的小松糕上。用抹刀或勺子將之壓平。

Sift cocoa powder liberally on surface of layer.

在表層灑上大量的可可粉。

Apply second layer of lady fingers and remaining cheese.

疊上第二層小松糕和剩下的芝士。

Sift cocoa powder and half of chocolate shavings.

灑上可可粉和二分之一巧克力刨片。

Cover in plastic wrap and chill.

用塑料紙包好，放入冰箱冷凍。

To serve, use the remaining chocolate shavings by sprinkling a bit onto eight plates. Cut tiramisu into eight rectangles and serve on plates (or simply spoon them out). Can be kept frozen for some time before serving.

為客人端上這道甜點(diǎn)時(shí)，在八個(gè)碟子上撒上些剩余的巧克力刨片。將提拉米蘇切成八份正方塊用盤子端給客人（或直接用勺子舀出）。在吃之前可以冷藏一段時(shí)間。

Links

1. lady's fingers

一種小松糕，又叫淑女手指餅干，是意大利的傳統(tǒng)餅干，質(zhì)感松軟，吸水性強(qiáng)，口感界于蛋糕和曲奇餅干之間，是制作提拉米蘇的主要材料，