PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENG QIZHI (任奇志)

TEXT BY SUN JIAHUI (孫佳慧)

LAND OF RAZOR CLAMS

PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENG QIZHI (任奇志)

TEXT BY SUN JIAHUI (孫佳慧)

From the buckets of Baisheng to the table

誰知盤中蟶，粒粒皆辛苦

Of all the seafood to be found in the abundance of China’s coastlines, there is perhaps none more common than the humble Chinese razor clam. The good people of Baisheng Village (百勝村) in Fujian Province, commonly known as the“Land of Razor Clams” (縊蟶之鄉(xiāng)), have been cultivating this delectable bivalve since the Song Dynasty (960 – 1279).

For hundreds of years, villagers have been farming the seaside’s shoals and sandbars for razor clams, an easy creature to raise as it barely moves during its lifetime. Every year, from mid-summer to autumn, thousands of razor clam hunters head to the coast to collect their bounty, and the thin-shelled razor clams of Baisheng are said to be exceptionally fleshy.

The creature itself is famous for its good taste, high nutritional value, and cheap price. While it is possible to raise razor clams in a pond, these filter feeders taste best if they are harvested naturally from the sea—which, needless to say, is more laborious. To add to the strain, the busiest time for razor clam harvesting is also the hottest; workers are battered by the sun from July to September as they dig for this money-making mollusk.

Harvest begins before daybreak, so the clam hunters wear lights on their heads to guide them through the inky water; they also don rain boots, gloves, and are careful to wrap their hands tightly in cloth to prevent cuts. Other than that, a spade and a large basket are all that are needed.

However, just because this species is sedentary doesn’t mean catching them is easy work. They react quickly when exposed, and if you’re not fast, you may find yourself digging another 70 to 80 centimeters to find them again. And, as with everything on the sea, success depends on the tides. Farmers race against the incoming tide to get as many razor clams as they can before their quarry is beyond their reach. However, even after all that hard work, farming for razor clams is an unpredictable business. The size of the clams can vary depending on the weather, temperature, and even the salinity of the water.

From the buckets of Baisheng, these razor clams make their way to market and then onto dinner and restaurant tables around the nation. Little thought is put into where our food comes from nowadays, but the next time you sit down around a thin-shelled, fleshy razor clam, it might be a good idea to remember the hard work that goes into every bite you take.

GLOVES AND RAIN BOOTS ARE ESSENTIAL KIT FOR GATHERING RAZOR CLAMS

HARVESTERS OFTEN NEED TO DIG 70 TO 80 CENTIMETERS TO FIND THEIR CATCH

BOTH MEN AND WOMEN TAKE PART IN THE HARVEST OF RAZOR CLAMS IN BAISHENG VILLAGE

AS THE HARVEST DEPENDS ON THE TIDES, WORK BEGINS BEFORE SUNRISE AND A SOURCE OF LIGHT IS A NECESSITY

SOME PREFER DRIED RAZOR CLAMS, WHICH ARE JUST AS TASTY AND ARE MUCH EASIER TO STORE

THE FRESH HARVEST IS PURCHASED BY WHOLESALERS AND RESOLD AT MARKETS

AFTER BEING SHELLED AND AIRED, DRIED RAZOR CLAMS ARE BAGGED AND SOLD IN SMALL AMOUNTS

NEWLY-COLLECTED RAZOR CLAMS ARE USUALLY CLEAN, THOUGH SOME MERCHANTS PUT MUD ON THEM TO MAKE THEM SEEM MORE FRESH