徐家駿
沿寧波鄞州區(qū)東錢湖環(huán)湖大道至下水村口,就看到一高高矗立的、造型獨特的路碑,上書“十里四香”四個大字。這個“香”,其實就是“鄉(xiāng)”的諧音。往左拐,路下小溪潺潺,前方山林疊翠之中,靜臥一小山村——綠野。
千年古村綠野地處東錢湖東南山麓之中。“北有秦陵兵馬俑,南有錢湖石刻群?!笔吩t墓道是國務院文物重點保護單位。墓道石刻像體略小,造型樸拙,反映了南宋初期和史氏發(fā)跡初期的門第狀態(tài),“北宋楊家將,南宋史氏相”,后者就是指綠野村的史氏家族。
千年古村隱高士
1700多年前,晉人陶潛寫下《桃花源記》。我不是那武陵漁人,我只是一個東錢湖的游客,走在綠野古村幽深狹長的里弄里,踏石板,拂清風,聞林濤水聲,聽狗吠雞鳴,我越來越覺得,綠野,是一個充滿詩意的村名,和桃花源堪有一比!
綠野村又名綠野岙。這里古木參天,山靈水秀,鳥語花香。在史氏進居這個地方之前,卻是人跡罕至,僻靜至極。
這里說到一個歷史人物——八行公史詔。史詔是遺腹子,從小就靈秀聰慧,氣度不凡。寡母葉氏對他寄予厚望,雖然窮得家徒四壁,卻請了名師悉心管教。成年后,他不求功名,只想守在母親身邊,以盡孝道。史詔刻苦讀書,詩詞文章、道德品行等各個方面,都受到了鄉(xiāng)鄰的一致贊譽。長居鄉(xiāng)村,史詔認真細致地研究了社會現(xiàn)象,倡導了“孝、友、睦、姻、任、恤、中、和”八行,營建了良好的鄉(xiāng)風,史詔本人在士大夫和鄉(xiāng)鄰們心中的威望越來越高。
宋徽宗兩次頒旨召史詔入朝為官,史詔都婉言謝絕。為了不讓人打擾,史詔帶領全家,搬遷到離村子70里外的東錢湖畔大田山中,過上了耕讀侍母的隱居生活。他們鑿石造屋,開荒耕種,久而久之,形成了一個千年古村?!岸肪撇卮河?,開軒有客迎。烹鮮供母箸,督濮佐春耕。園果霜前熟,山禽雨后鳴。市朝風味好,輸我一般清?!痹谑吩t一生寫下的那么多的詩詞里面,我最欣賞這首五律,比起晉人陶淵明的《桃花源記》來,覺得毫不遜色。
幾百年來,史氏家族在這塊山岙里,繁衍生息,建立起了大片人文建筑,有的至今保存完好。
源遠流長血脈連
從十里四香逆青溪而上,步行半個小時,就到了綠野古村的入口。首先看到的是橫陳路旁的一塊巨石,上刻“宋八行高士史詔故里。孝友睦姻任恤中和”幾個字,上下四行排列,紅漆醒目。村口豎一座高大雄偉的仿古門樓,兩層建筑,飛檐翹角,四根方形石柱,采自鄞州本地特有的梅園石。正中門額,刻“綠野古村”四個字,中間兩根石柱之上刻有對聯(lián),“四代輔臣二王業(yè)績傳千古,歷朝進士七二題名啟后人”。讀著這些文字,完全可以想象史氏家族當年的輝煌。穿過門樓,右側(cè)筑一高墻,正中書一巨大的“史”字,配一聯(lián)是,“忠孝為本本固則業(yè)茂,節(jié)義乃源源深且流長”,橫批“八行耀輝”。由此可見,八行高士史詔的孝義氣節(jié),至今仍流淌在史氏后人的血液里。
綠野古村臨溪而建,一片寧靜祥和。
一條古巷依坡勢向上蛇行,縱橫數(shù)條里弄,供村民出行。出了禮堂大門,向右拐到巷口,路越來越窄了,兩旁屋檐搭屋檐,如果檐下各站一個成年人,又各伸開一只手臂,恐怕都能觸到對方的指尖。
腳下石板石階,都用鄞州梅園石鋪砌,石塊開鑿隨意,走到這樣的石板臺階上,古意撲面而來。因長期被踩踏,石路中間顯得十分光潔,而兩側(cè)卻布滿綠苔,石板縫里探出野草,都散發(fā)著古村特有的氣息。
村中新建文化禮堂,管理員就是史家美字輩老人,鶴發(fā)童顏,精神矍鑠。我想,這是因為綠野的自然環(huán)境太好的緣故。文化禮堂寬敞明亮,展廳分上下兩層,分別掛著綠野古村簡介牌和先祖使用過的家具、茶具以及史簡、葉太君等四明史氏先祖的畫像。
在一樓展廳,墻上懸一塊史料牌,《綠野岙史氏遷徙年表》。
文字很長,因是仰頭看,加上燈光反射,我讀得很慢,讀罷長長地舒了一口氣,不光是頭暈頸酸,更為四明史氏的源遠流長以及赫赫威名而贊嘆不已。
在二樓一間小展廳里,一把巨大的石椅吸引了我的目光。據(jù)文字記載和史老先生的口頭介紹,石椅原是史詔墓道石刻之一,出于文物保護目的,移至展廳。石椅背高1.1米,座高0.5米,寬0.56米。座椅及椅背披著錦帛。這張石椅民間俗稱“太師椅”,是宋代不可多得的石刻椅子,對研究我們古代石椅發(fā)展史提供了極其寶貴的實物資料。
優(yōu)良家風傳后人
走著走著,我突生疑惑,“一門三宰相,四世二封王”;當年,史氏家族是東錢湖岸乃至整個南宋王朝的望族,憑著這樣的侯門望族,怎么著也得造幾座豪宅,雕梁畫棟,飛檐翹角。但千年古村綠野,宅子都不大,且低矮、逼仄,都是民居民宅。想來當年的史氏家風,是何等的節(jié)儉、低調(diào),何等的不事鋪張。
“奉母堂”是史詔在大田山的一間居室,相對其他的屋舍,應該寬敞、精致一些。當時,跟史詔一起遷居綠野就有他的四個兒子,可謂兒孫滿堂,寡母葉氏吃了一輩子的苦,老了怎能不享享清福呢?但是,奉母堂究竟是哪一座,我無法辨認,村民也無法指認。歲月滄桑,或許奉母堂早已坍塌,或許本只是一間普通民房吧!八行家風,在此略見一斑。
在綠野古巷,有一個最吸人眼球的看點,那就是碎瓦墻。幾乎所有的院墻,都以普通亂石砌底,上疊碎瓦。我想,風雪無情,歲月滄桑,老房總會變成廢墟殘垣,綠野人就利用它們來砌新墻,不但節(jié)約成本,還省去運送廢料出村的麻煩。
再仔細讀一讀、品一品,這片片碎瓦、塊塊礫石,就是一本史書。
在史氏后人美露主編的《南宋四明史氏》中說:南宋史氏是一個罕見的文學世族,一門三宰相,四世兩封王,五尚書,七十二進士,這在中國歷史上恐怕也是絕無僅有的。當年史氏家族不僅權(quán)傾朝野,還是一個罕見的文學家族。史家歷代的進士們,才氣橫溢,個個都有詩詞佳作傳世,前后數(shù)百年,卷帙浩繁,光詩集就有數(shù)百卷,其中不乏膾炙人口之作,最有品位的當然屬八行公史詔了。在此,我僅抄錄其中一首《立春懷憶》:endprint
寂寞荒村景,凄其今日春。趁時三盞酒,轉(zhuǎn)眼一年人。
鬃短能添白,身閑亦耐貧。韶光容易老,何時逐風塵。
史氏是一個歷史悠久的大家族,上可遠溯自公元前的周代,后有分支。四明史氏上繼溧陽族,逐漸成為寧波乃至中國歷史上影響極大的一個望族。
史詔倡導“孝友睦姻任恤中和”八行,得到鄉(xiāng)鄰與士大夫的響應。宋徽宗大觀二年(1108)設立“八行”取士,凡具備這八字者,身體力行,做得最好的,可免于科考直接到太學做官。史詔做得最好,皇帝兩次下詔征之,史詔兩次婉辭,宋徽宗佩服其人品,便親筆御書,封史詔為“八行高士”
我們來看看何謂八行:
孝是百善之首,友似昆弟之好,睦為文明之禮,姻系民族之源,任負天下之責,恤濟貧老之帛,中樹正直之基,和促平安之風。
讀著這些言簡意賅、含義深刻的文字,我肅然起敬?!鞍诵小?,中華民族優(yōu)秀道德傳統(tǒng)的精華。八行,作為一種精神,營建了良好的社會風氣,推動了當時社會的進步。日月如梭,轉(zhuǎn)眼數(shù)百年過去了,但“八行”之要義,在21世紀構(gòu)建和諧社會、為實現(xiàn)中華民族偉大復興的“中國夢”的今天,有著不可低估的現(xiàn)實意義。
時值午后,陽光正烈,走在古意幽深的巷子里,一會兒就口干舌燥了。我拐進一弄口,只聽到溪水淙淙,聲聲入耳,沿著人家院墻,踏著石階,再轉(zhuǎn)個彎,便來到了一條小溪邊。蹲下身子,掬起一捧溪水,洗把臉,好清爽的感覺!我想,這千年古村里的小溪,水質(zhì)肯定是沒得說的,于是雙手撐地,伸長脖子,像只鵝似的,嘴巴直接觸到水……
我原路返回的時候,幾乎一步一回頭,綠林掩映之中,炊煙裊裊,路邊小溪,淙淙潺潺,遠遠地,還依稀傳來幾聲狗吠!好一個世外桃源啊!
A Shangri-La Village on Dongqian Lake
By Xu Jiajun
I recently visited Green Wildness, a village nestled in mountains on the southeastern side of Dongqian Lake in Ningbo. It is this village that gives Dongqian Lake a group of stone sculptures left over from the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) and makes the lake famous. The village is the final sanctuary where the Shi family settled in hiding from the madding world. The standing stone sculptures of the grave of Shi Zhao (1057-1139) along the graveyard passage are now a national cultural relic.
Shi Zhaos life spanned the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127) and the Southern Song Dynasty. He was a posthumous child. Though the family struggled in poverty, his mother managed to find him good tutors. The boy grew up to be a man of virtue and knowledge. He studied the society around him and came up with a system of ethics composed of eight principles. He was admired by local scholars and people. His reputation spread.
Emperor Huizong of the Northern Song Dynasty heard of him and wished to give him important appointments at court. Shi declined, saying he would stay with his mother and take care of her. He said on many occasions: without his mother, there would be no descendents of the Shi family. In order to avoid further intrusions, he moved his family into Datian Mountain by Dongqian Lake. It was about 35 kilometers away and the family settled down there. The family flourished. In the Southern Song Dynasty, three of Shi Zhaos descendents served as prime minister, five served as ministers, two became lords, and seventy two came out as in the highest imperial civil service examination.
Green Wildness has two landmarks in commemoration of Shi Zhao. As I approached the village I saw a monumental stone bearing engraved words indicating this is his home village and displaying the eight-word ethics system. At the entrance to the village stands a two-tier memorial archway, with four pillars and upturned eaves. On the two stone pillars is a couplet featuring the glory of the family. After ambling through the archway, I saw a huge wall on the right side presenting a Chinese character史, the surname of the family.endprint
The village is more than 850 years old. It perches on a slope along a stream. It oozes serenity. I followed an ancient lane snaking through the village, crisscrossed by a labyrinth of lanes paved with flat stones. Due to the footstep wear and tear of the past centuries, the flat stones look shiny, but the edges of the stones are stained with green algae and dotted with weeds peeking out of the crevices.
The villages cultural center displays a delightful contrast of the old and the new: it is a brand-new two-story structure and it displays the ancient story of the Shi family. The curator is a silver-haired hale and hearty old man. Naturally, he was a Shi descendent. On a wall of the exhibition hall on the ground floor is a long textual message illustrating how all the key family members of the past centuries migrated and where they settled down. I spent a long time going through the text. The chronicle indicates how amazing the family was.
I ascended to the second floor. A stone armchair in a small room attracted my attention. The curator told me that it came from the graveyard passage. It was one of the stone sculptures created in the Southern Song Dynasty. The armchairs back is 1.1 meters tall whereas the seat is 0.5 meter tall and 0.56 meter wide. It was removed from the venue for the purpose of protection. This armchair is rare and precious simply because it is a stone armchair and it dates back to the Southern Song Dynasty.
While strolling through the village, I noticed something unusual. The clan was famous throughout the Southern Song Dynasty, but the village does not look stately. The village boasts no grand houses and no houses are ornately decorated. The ancient houses are all ordinary. I asked some villagers and they didnt know where Shi Zhao once lived. Then I made a guess that the family kept a low profile and led a frugal life.
Another unusual sight in the village is the yard walls. They are made of irregular rocks topped with broken roof tiles. They are apparently recycled building materials. Houses come and go, but building materials stay. It is a good idea to hold.endprint