文旅：萬里之遙的“詩和遠方”

彭納

Culture and tourism ： looking for the sense of remoteness

這里是“非洲屋脊”——埃塞俄比亞。4月，即將進入雨季的埃塞被蒙蒙細雨潤澤，一列藍白相間的現(xiàn)代化輕軌緩緩駛?cè)胧锥际兄行牡氖謴V場站。幾分鐘后，列車再次啟動，穿過熙攘的城市，往下一站開去。置身這樣的亞的斯亞貝巴，常常讓人恍惚，是徘徊在久遠的神秘感，還是現(xiàn)代的霓虹中？

在古希臘語中，埃塞俄比亞意為“被太陽曬黑的人民居住的土地”。東鄰吉布提、索馬里，西同蘇丹、南蘇丹交界，南與肯尼亞接壤，北接厄立特里亞的埃塞俄比亞，坐擁豐富的礦物、地?zé)?、水力、森林資源，大量的野生動物更賦予這片土地靈動與生機?！胺侵奘侨祟惖膿u籃”——1871年達爾文提出的大膽推測，為狂野的非洲大陸披上了一層神秘的人文色彩。

非洲大陸的遼闊久遠、狂野、神秘?zé)o不匯聚在埃塞俄比亞。帶著人類是否從這里起源，文明的盡頭是否可以在這里尋覓的疑問，走進這里最原始的部落，仿佛叩開了遠古的大門。在摩爾西部族中，據(jù)傳說，當?shù)嘏赃x擇將嘴唇和耳垂割開，然后在其中塞入泥盤，將之越撐越大，以這種自殘的形式毀容，從而確保了自身安全以及部族繁衍。久而久之，身體成為了藝術(shù)的載體，繁復(fù)的花紋與裝飾絢麗奪目又野性十足……

從遠古抽身，又與自然的鬼斧神工相遇。3500萬年前，由于強烈的地殼斷裂運動，非洲板塊從阿拉伯古陸塊中被撕扯出來，形成了現(xiàn)在的紅海、亞丁灣和東非大裂谷。大約1萬年前，海底緩慢抬升起一道山脊，把達納吉爾地區(qū)與紅海隔離開來，在緩慢沉降中，形成了低于海平面100多米的凹地。隨后，一系列火山活動在這片名為達納吉爾的凹地留下了沸騰的溫泉、爆裂聲不斷的熔巖湖、亦真亦幻的海市蜃樓……奇觀之中，還橫亙著世界上最古老的熔巖湖——Erta Ale，站在湖邊，沸騰的巖漿就在面前翻滾，“地獄之門”的名號當之無愧。

近年來，隨著中國超越美國連續(xù)9年成為非洲第一大貿(mào)易伙伴國，非洲也成為中國游客日益青睞的“詩和遠方”。20侶年1—7月，中國赴非旅游人數(shù)同比增長超過70%。2017年6月，埃塞俄比亞對中國游客實行電子簽證，同年中國公民首站赴埃塞俄比亞的游客數(shù)量同比增長96.1%，2018年上半年同比增長82.5%。埃塞俄比亞首次登上2017年和2018年上半年中國公民出境前40位目的地名單。

埃塞的魅力不僅在于探險之旅、尋古之旅，而且還是聞香之旅。

相傳，多年以前，埃塞俄比亞咖法地區(qū)的牧羊人最先發(fā)現(xiàn)了咖啡，到今天，咖啡已經(jīng)成為世界性飲品。正是因為咖啡文化在世界的行銷，這些生在埃塞的紅豆開啟了全球“巡演”。

每年的12月，埃塞俄比亞塔普咖啡產(chǎn)區(qū)的莊園里，滿枝通體紅透的果子正待人采擷。經(jīng)過晾曬并對脫殼的咖啡豆進行人工分類篩選后，這些豆子就將啟程前往萬里之外的中國廣東。

近年來，中國咖啡消費量快速增長，越來越多來自世界各地的優(yōu)質(zhì)咖啡進入中國市場，為消費者提供了更多選擇。根據(jù)廣東省海關(guān)提供的數(shù)據(jù)顯示，該省2017年咖啡及其制品的進口量已經(jīng)達到約27萬噸，占全國進口量的四分之一。

而埃塞亞吉鐵路等基礎(chǔ)設(shè)施的完善，加快了咖啡出口的效率。成批的咖啡豆通過公路、鐵路運往吉布提港口裝船，經(jīng)過21天左右的海運進入中國。

隨著“異國紅豆”來到中國的，還有被中國傳統(tǒng)文化吸引的年輕人。

在河北吳橋雜技藝術(shù)學(xué)校的練功房里，來自埃塞俄比亞的16歲少女黑克瑪格外引入注意。小姑娘握緊滾環(huán)，一次次翻轉(zhuǎn)著，汗水順著她棱角分明的臉頰流下，滴落在了練功房的地板上。

“在整個非洲，還沒有一名女子滾環(huán)雜技演員，我的目標就是成為這第一名?！鄙倥樕蠋е唤z羞怯，眼神中卻充滿了堅定。

黑克瑪希望成為知名的雜技演員，能到世界各地演出，掙錢養(yǎng)活家里人。談及未來，她很有信心。將來她還想在埃塞開一所雜技學(xué)校，讓更多孩子和家庭擁有更好的未來。

隨著中埃兩國建立起全面合作伙伴關(guān)系，兩國交往不斷向著多領(lǐng)域拓展，文化、旅游成為兩國合作的亮點與前沿。

2018年，中非合作論壇北京峰會開幕式上，中國提出以打造新時代更加緊密的中非命運共同體為指引，實施“八大行動”。這其中包括，加強發(fā)展經(jīng)驗交流，支持開展經(jīng)濟社會發(fā)展規(guī)劃方面合作;在非洲設(shè)立10個魯班工坊，向非洲青年提供職業(yè)技能培訓(xùn);支持設(shè)立旨在推動青年創(chuàng)新創(chuàng)業(yè)合作的中非創(chuàng)新合作中心;實施頭雁計劃，為非洲培訓(xùn)1000名精英人才等。

亞的斯亞貝巴大學(xué)教授科斯坦蒂諾斯對此表示，人文交流將進一步促進非洲青年人的發(fā)展，為非洲國家?guī)砀喟l(fā)展機遇。

未來，隨著“一帶一路”建設(shè)的不斷拓展，兩國合作的不斷加深，兩個古老國度的人民將更加理解彼此的文化，兩個快速發(fā)展的新興國家將攜手開拓更好的未來。

This is Ethiopia， the roof ofAfrica. In April， rainyseason was about to moisture Ethiopia withdrizzles. A blue and white modern light rail train wasslowly pulling over the Meskel Square Station inthe center of the capital city. A few nunutes later， thetrain restarted and ran to the next station through thebustling downtown. In such a city of Addis Ababa，a visitor may get confused if he or she is wanderingthrough the mystery of its past， or amidst the neon inmodern times.

In ancient Greek， the word "Ethiopia" means"the land resided by tanned people." Bordered byDjibouti and Somalia to the east， Sudan and SouthSudan to the west， Kenya to the south， and Eritrea tothe north， Ethiopia is rich in minerals， geothermal，hydropower and forest resources. Besides， a largenumber of wild animals are gifted to this productiveland， filling it with vitality. "Africa is the cradle ofhuman beings." Darwin's bold speculation in 1871painted a mysterious humanistic color on the wildAfrican continent.

Say "hello" to mysterious Ethiopia.

The vastness， remoteness， wildness and mysteryof African continent gather in Ethiopia. Did humanbeings originate from here？ Can we trace thecradle of human civilization in this place？ With thequestions like this， it seems like we are knockingat a door toward the ancient past by visiting themost primitive tribes here. It is said that the lips andearlobes of Mursi females should be pierced withpottery plates which will continuously enlarge theholes. In such a self-harming way， they make surethe safety and prosperity of the tribe. Over time，their bodies have become the camer of tribal art withcomplicated patterns and decorations of wild naturedazzling...

Having seen the wildness of the ancient tribe，we will witness the natural beauty here. 35 millionyears ago， the African plate was torn from the ancientArabian plate due to the strong crustal fracturemovement， forming the current Red Sea， the Gulf ofAden and the East African Great Rift Valley. Around10，000 years ago， the sea bed slowly raised a ridgeand separated the Danakil area from the Red Sea. Inthe slow process of sinking， a depression more than100 meters below sea level was formed， becomingthe Danakil Depression. Subsequently， a series ofvolcanic activities left Danakil Depression a boilinghot spring， a lava lake that frequently bursts， andmirages. Among these spectacular scenes， there isalso one of the six oldest lava lakes --- the Erta Ale.Standing by the lake， one can see magma boiling inthe front. Its nickname "the Gate of Hell" does notcome from nothing.

In recent years， as China has surpassed theUnited States for nine consecutive years to becomeAfrica's largest trading partner， Africa has alsobecome a popular tourist destination among thoseChinese who look for the sense of remoteness.From January to July 2018， Chinese tourists toAfrica increased by 70% comparing to the sameperiod of the previous year. In June 2017， Ethiopiaimplements e-Visas for Chinese Tourists. In thesame year， the number of Chinese tourists visitingEthiopia as their first stop in African increased by96.1%. And in the first half of 2018， it increasedby 82.5%. Ethiopia got into the list of top 40destinations for Chinese outbound tourists for thefirst time in 2017 and the first half of 2018.Cultural tourism with streams of visitors andeverlasting friendship

The charm of Ethiopia hides not only in the tourof adventure and ancient history， but also in the tourof enjoying coffee scent.

Legendary story has that Ethiopian goat herderKaldi first discovered coffee at Kaffa many yearsago. Today， coffee is popular worldwide. With thepopularity of coffee culture， the Ethiopian coffeebeans start their global tours.

In December， the red coffee beans turn mature andare ready to be picked on the coffee farms in Ethiopia.The picked coffee beans are aired， shelled and hand-picked before being shipped to Guangdong， China.

In recent years， coffee consumption has beengrowing fast in China. More and more quality coffeebrands around the world enter the Chinese market，providing Chinese consumers with more choices.According to the data of Guangdong Customs，Guangdong Province imported 27，000 tons of coffeeand related products in 2017， a quarter of China'stotal coffee import.

With the infrastructure improvement like theAddis Ababa-Djibouti Railway， Ethiopia increases itsefficiency of coffee export. Batches of coffee beansare transported by highway and railway to the portof Djibouti first， and then reach China after some 21days' sea transportation.

While the Ethiopian red coffee beans aretransported to China， young Ethiopians attracted bytraditional Chinese culture also amve here.

In the practice room of Hebei Wuqiao AcrobaticArt School， Hekma， a 16-year-old girl from Ethiopia，attracted the journalist's attention. The girl clenchedthe rolling ring and flipped it again and again andsoon the sweat ran down her cheeks and droppedonto the floor ofthe practice room.

"In whole Africa， there hasn't been a female ring-rolling acrobat， and my goal is to become the veryfirst one." Although the girl took on a tinge of shy onher face， she looked determined in her eyes.

Hekma wanted to become a famous acrobatwho can have performance tours around the worldand earn bread for her family. She was confident inher future. In the future， she also wants to open anacrobatic school in Ethiopia so that more children andtheir families can have a better future.

With the establishment of a comprehensivepartnership between China and Ethiopia， the twocountries are communicating toward multi-fields. Andculture and tourism have become the highlights andforefronts for cooperation between the two countries.

In 2018， China proposed that "Eight MajorInitiatives" will be camed out under the guidance ofbuilding an even stronger community with a sharedfuture between China and Africa in the new eraon the 2018 Beijing Summit of Forum on China-Africa Cooperation （FOCAC）. These initiativesinclude： strengthening exchanges of developmentexperience， supporting cooperation in economicand social development planning， setting up 10Luban Workshops in Africa to provide vocationaltechnical training to African youth， supportingthe establishment of a China-Africa InnovationCooperation Center that aims to promote innovationand entrepreneurship cooperation of the youth， andimplementing the Head Goose Project to train l，000elites for Africa.

Costantinos Berhutesfa Costantinos， professorof public policy at the Addis Ababa University inEthiopia， said that the people-to-people exchangesbetween Africa and China will enhance thedevelopment of African young people and bring moredevelopment opportunities to African countries.

In the future， with the continuous developmentand extension of the Belt and Road Initiative， thecooperation between China and Ethiopia will continueto be deepened， and the people of the two time-honored nations will understand each other's culturedeeper and deeper. The two rapidly developing andemerging countries will work together to build abrighter future.