張加強(qiáng)
人文篇
這些場(chǎng)景被放置在遙遠(yuǎn)的時(shí)空里,繞過漫漫長(zhǎng)夜,打通蠻荒古道,纏纏綿綿地鋪到了天外,世界于是認(rèn)識(shí)了盛產(chǎn)詩和絲的中國,于是絲綢化為一種風(fēng)情,裏著前朝風(fēng)華,裏著后世琳瑯,用中國色彩打扮了世界的美。
古代希臘人稱中國為賽里斯(Seres),意即“絲國”,美極。
絲綢風(fēng)靡意大利,羅馬人稱之為“賽里斯的紗”,雅極。
英文啟蒙讀物《絲綢之路故事》,開篇說,一個(gè)孩子向作者維杰·辛哈發(fā)問:什么是“絲綢之路”,難道真有一條用絲綢鋪成的道路嗎?趣極。
浙江湖州錢山漾遺址出土了4000多年前的絲片,是長(zhǎng)江流域出土的最早、最完整的家蠶絲織品,神極。
古絲,一個(gè)唯美的歲月品牌
中國古代和歐洲中世紀(jì),有一條以絲綢貿(mào)易為媒介的文化交流之路,其線路從黃河流域,經(jīng)印度、西亞連接北非和歐洲。它原先的起點(diǎn)在黃河流域的中國長(zhǎng)安,后來上溯至長(zhǎng)江流域的中國浙江湖州。再后來,因絲誕生無數(shù)的江南小鎮(zhèn)。
去歷史的空間目睹一場(chǎng)傳奇,歷經(jīng)幾千年,在沉沉的蘇醒中似乎看出明白。
時(shí)光定格在公元?jiǎng)?chuàng)世紀(jì)前后,帕米爾高原邊緣地區(qū)的匈奴人屢犯漢境。漢帝國派張騫帶著絲織品出使西域,尋求盟友。為分化匈奴,漢政府給部落送去大米、美酒和紡織品。公元前1年,匈奴收到3萬匹絲綢和大致相等的原材料。絲綢則是重要的禮品,是權(quán)力和地位的象征,高級(jí)綢是對(duì)單于尊貴身份的體現(xiàn)。
接著,漢朝對(duì)匈奴發(fā)動(dòng)漠南、河西、漠北三次大戰(zhàn),收復(fù)河套。漢武帝大幅提高軍人的待遇,在一次巡視時(shí),犒賞邊防軍100萬匹絲綢。
在漢朝,絲綢扮演著最值得信賴的貨幣的角色,絲綢與錢幣、糧食一樣用來支付軍餉,成匹的絲綢維持著邊境安寧。同時(shí),漢武帝招募大量商人,朝廷配給貨物,到西域各國經(jīng)商。中國絲綢出現(xiàn)在幾千公里以外的中東市場(chǎng)。
羅馬人很快加入到這條商道中,從公元一世紀(jì)起,羅馬人開始迷戀轉(zhuǎn)手取得的中國絲綢,中國絲綢成為羅馬城市民狂熱的追求目標(biāo),市場(chǎng)上絲綢的價(jià)格曾上揚(yáng)至每磅約12兩黃金的天價(jià)。凱撒大帝穿著絲綢長(zhǎng)袍去看戲,引起全場(chǎng)的欽羨。經(jīng)考證,愷撒穿的絲袍材料來自中國長(zhǎng)安。據(jù)羅馬史學(xué)家魯卡努斯記載,埃及艷后克利奧帕特拉七世酷愛絲綢制品,穿著絲綢外衣接見使節(jié)。
在阿拉伯半島和地中海商道上的巴特內(nèi)城,被譽(yù)為“沙漠威尼斯”。每年9月,在幼發(fā)拉底河畔的巴特內(nèi)交易會(huì)上,貿(mào)易商們可以找到調(diào)料、象牙和成品絲綢等。
張騫開啟了一條橫跨大陸的交流通道,沿途商業(yè)貿(mào)易一度繁榮,被稱作“鑿空之旅”,張騫成為“絲綢之路的開拓者”“東方的哥倫布”。
西方人直到19世紀(jì)還爭(zhēng)相來到中國,探訪這神秘而優(yōu)雅的國度。
1872年,一個(gè)叫費(fèi)迪南·馮·李希霍芬的德國地理學(xué)家,完成第七次中國西部的遠(yuǎn)征后,在德國出版《中國》一書,并用了一個(gè)非常唯美的詞取代了曾經(jīng)頻用的“瓷器之路”“佛教之路”“玉石之路”,這個(gè)詞叫“絲綢之路”。
于是,有人追根溯源。
堯舜在中原逐鹿中融合了各路史前文化,締造了統(tǒng)一的華夏文明。從這一時(shí)期中原各地的墓葬里,已可見那蠶之花。中原大地、隴西遼東,都發(fā)現(xiàn)了蠶種的蛛絲馬跡。
于是,有人考古實(shí)證。
湖州城東有個(gè)叫錢山漾的湖,湖邊的村落叫潞村。1934年夏,適值百年大旱,錢山漾干涸見底,一位叫慎微之的讀書人在河灘上發(fā)現(xiàn)很多石簇、石鐮、石刀、石斧、石錛、石犁等古人類石器。
慎微之隱約接收到某種來自時(shí)光深處的信息,于是發(fā)表論文,與江南史學(xué)界吳越古文化“幾與中原并駕齊驅(qū)”之說形成共鳴。1958年,浙江文物專家對(duì)錢山漾進(jìn)行了兩次發(fā)掘,首次發(fā)現(xiàn)了綢片、絲帶、絲線等一批尚未炭化的織物。
專家們將織物送經(jīng)當(dāng)時(shí)的浙江絲綢工學(xué)院、上海紡織科學(xué)研究院切片檢測(cè),奇跡發(fā)生了:綢片和絲帶屬人工飼養(yǎng)的家蠶絲織物。這些綢片再經(jīng)碳十四測(cè)定,距今已有4400~4200年,是目前發(fā)現(xiàn)長(zhǎng)江流域出土的最早、最完整的家蠶絲織品。
慎微之把錢山漾遺址從石器時(shí)代的枯竭水面撈了上來,打撈回遙遠(yuǎn)時(shí)光,成為“錢山漾遺址”的發(fā)現(xiàn)者。
一些場(chǎng)景被放置在遙遠(yuǎn)的時(shí)空里,繞過漫漫長(zhǎng)夜,打通蠻荒古道,纏纏綿綿地鋪到了天外,世界于是認(rèn)識(shí)了盛產(chǎn)詩和絲的中國,于是絲綢化為一種風(fēng)情,裏著前朝風(fēng)華,裏著后世琳瑯,用中國色彩打扮了世界的美。
由此,浙江的格局里,有了絲和遠(yuǎn)方。
這根富貴而堅(jiān)韌的長(zhǎng)絲,顯示出她無限的長(zhǎng)度。在錢山漾文化交流中心(中國蠶桑絲織技藝非遺傳承中心)的“絲綢歷史墻”上,有華夏絲綢史:夏代六州貢絲;春秋戰(zhàn)國吳楚爭(zhēng)桑;漢代,漢通西域,湖州絲綢入貢、西傳;三國,發(fā)展民屯和軍屯?!秴嵌假x》用“膏腴兼倍”四字寫出了屯田墾殖的巨大成果。德清的“永安絲”入貢;從三國到五代,大規(guī)模的治水營田,建成完善的塘浦圩田體系,湖地成為全國知名的糧桑產(chǎn)地、衣食之源。唐代,吳綾與蜀錦齊名。兩宋,?;~塘得循環(huán)使用,魯桑走向“湖?!薄C髑?,湖桑改良,?;~塘興盛,絲綢市鎮(zhèn)興起。晚清民國,世界殊榮里的湖絲。
錢山漾遺址的一次偶然泄密,寫就世界絲路源頭的古老詩篇,盡顯吉兆。
國絲,一個(gè)美麗的真絲部落
從湖州出發(fā),踏上一條洪荒中荒涼、無常中無畏的道路。從先人用樹葉蔽體,改由蠶吃葉吐絲后織布作衣,成為文明的人。
錢山漾牽出的這根纖纖蠶絲,精美細(xì)膩和柔韌平整,如此有生命力的勞動(dòng)成果,沒有成熟的制絲技術(shù)是不可想象的。
湖州誕生了著名的溇港文化。塘浦圩田系統(tǒng)是古代湖州人變涂泥為沃土的一項(xiàng)獨(dú)特創(chuàng)造,它在中國水利史上的地位可與四川都江堰、關(guān)中鄭國渠媲美。
一種來自遠(yuǎn)古靈魂的語言,透過織物無聲地傳遞開來,?;~塘,令農(nóng)桑環(huán)境成為體系,出優(yōu)質(zhì)湖絲,締造絲綢王國,“湖州桑基魚塘系統(tǒng)”列入全球重要農(nóng)業(yè)文化遺產(chǎn),實(shí)至名歸。
湖州為“絲綢之府”這個(gè)名頭發(fā)力兩千多年,三國源起,六朝鋪展、唐代定調(diào),宋元定奪,明清鼎盛,民國無可撼動(dòng)。
今天,湖州至南潯那一路叫荻塘的闊大水面,調(diào)教出了湖州水網(wǎng)中鏡面般的清亮。荻塘深處,有個(gè)水邊村落叫輯里村,村東流淌著一條清澈透明的河。這里土質(zhì)黏韌,構(gòu)成了育桑、養(yǎng)蠶、繅絲優(yōu)越的自然條件,清澄如鏡的兩岸產(chǎn)一種以村命名的優(yōu)質(zhì)絲。輯里村人的繅絲應(yīng)用了當(dāng)時(shí)最先進(jìn)的三緒腳踏絲車,繅絲工藝獨(dú)特,絲的質(zhì)量有“細(xì)、圓、勻、堅(jiān)、白、凈、柔、韌”八大特點(diǎn)。湖繭、湖絲,雙甲天下?!赌蠞℃?zhèn)志》記載:“水甚清,取以繅絲,光澤可愛?!?/p>
湖州絲織品在南朝時(shí),吳興郡絲、綿、布、帛的生產(chǎn)交易江南聞名。唐代列入貢品,吳綾、花綢等為宮廷和官府所喜愛。吳越王錢鏐勸民從事農(nóng)桑,安吉、武康所出絲、綿、絹、紗為上乘之品。
北宋時(shí),湖州設(shè)專門的管理機(jī)構(gòu)“織綾務(wù)”,監(jiān)督綾羅緞等產(chǎn)品上貢。元時(shí),桑樹嫁接在湖州十分流行,湖桑葉質(zhì)肥美,有“蜀桑萬畝,吳蠶萬機(jī)”的說法,蘇州、南京和松江所用蠶絲莫不仰仗于湖絲。
南宋規(guī)定,不產(chǎn)絹帛地區(qū)繳納絹帛,于是大量種植桑棉,湖塘填為桑田,杭嘉湖地區(qū)桑麻野遍,尺寸無曠土。嘉興、蘇州一些不栽桑柘之戶,為應(yīng)付賦稅,去購絲織品。嘉泰年間,安吉貢綾5000匹,武康貢鵝脂綿5萬兩,湖州貢夏稅綢4000余匹。
南潯朱國禎、溫體仁兩位明朝相國都將自己家鄉(xiāng)的輯里絲推薦給了當(dāng)朝皇上。朱國禎的《涌幢小品》中說到輯里絲:“較常價(jià)每?jī)杀囟嘁环?。蘇人入手即識(shí),用織緞,紫光可鑒?!?/p>
明清之際,一些廣東土絲也冠以輯里絲。1684年,地方官報(bào)告:外商將頭等湖絲帶至歐洲試用。這是湖絲第一次外貿(mào)出口交易的文獻(xiàn)記錄。
朝廷在湖州設(shè)有專門的管理機(jī)構(gòu),宋稱織綾務(wù),元稱生帛局、織染局,明清稱織染局。明代貢品,有“蠶絲之貢,湖郡獨(dú)良”的記載。湖絲、湖縐、包頭絹以其秀麗、精致給湖州人平凡的生活增添了些許高雅。
地理上,從輯里村到錢山漾,近在咫尺,從湖州到倫敦,遠(yuǎn)在天邊。輯里村誕生了中國首個(gè)世博會(huì)金獎(jiǎng),村絲成為“國絲”,這4000多年的時(shí)空,只需幾句話即可予以詮釋:湖州氣候溫和,土質(zhì)肥沃,幾千年種桑養(yǎng)蠶,由蠶繭而繅絲,才有湖州蠶絲,這絲夠長(zhǎng)、夠韌、夠遠(yuǎn),遠(yuǎn)得地久天長(zhǎng),遠(yuǎn)得滄海桑田。
但盡蠶則桑葉不足,故湖州的桑葉所需,仰賴于太湖周圍地區(qū)供給。每到蠶季,太湖上往來運(yùn)桑的船絡(luò)繹不絕。
1910年,輯里湖絲有13個(gè)產(chǎn)品在南洋勸業(yè)會(huì)評(píng)比中分別獲得頭、二等商勛和超等、優(yōu)等獎(jiǎng)。1911年,在意大利都靈舉行的國際工業(yè)展覽會(huì)上,南潯梅氏各種牌號(hào)絲經(jīng)產(chǎn)品獲得一等獎(jiǎng)。1915年的巴拿馬國際博覽會(huì)上,南潯梅恒裕輯里湖絲再獲大獎(jiǎng)。1926年費(fèi)城世博會(huì)上,湖州生絲獲得甲等大獎(jiǎng)。
湖絲的魅力在于氣度高貴,質(zhì)地精美,絲織品以湖縐和綾絹聞名,唐時(shí)已遠(yuǎn)銷日本。雙林綾絹?zhàn)畹脙?nèi)府青睞,被用來書寫圣旨、詔書,為宮中必備,是文人墨客代紙作畫寫字和裝裱書畫的必備。今天的湖絲,依舊是中國最優(yōu)質(zhì)絲綢的代表,全世界都留有湖州絲綢的倩影。
一條蠶,一根絲,中國這一古老而綿延至今的產(chǎn)業(yè),奠定了絲綢之路的歷史輝煌。
長(zhǎng)絲,一座纏繞的江南小鎮(zhèn)
南潯小鎮(zhèn)不起眼的巷子深處,常有著旗袍、圍絲巾的拜佛畫畫吟詩燉燕窩的女子臨河而居,盡現(xiàn)宋詞元曲的雅韻。回到了精神的童年,絲永遠(yuǎn)牽著靈魂重返家園。
湖州更擁有絲綢的精彩:湖絲的飄逸優(yōu)雅,湖綢的雍容華貴,湖鍛的綺麗柔曼,湖絹的風(fēng)情萬種,湖錦的貴族風(fēng)華,把女人穿成了一道風(fēng)景、一種韻味和一次次的無與倫比。
南潯走進(jìn)中國豐富的內(nèi)涵,是蠶桑之利。這里湖河港汊密布,水清土沃,宜桑耕。南潯的富裕人家,都因絲拿出一點(diǎn)實(shí)質(zhì)性東西,拿得出傲世的珍藏。
潯絲作為上乘的湖絲,唐時(shí)已譽(yù)滿長(zhǎng)安,君臨天下。唐玄宗將其特選為貢品,“湖絲用作帽緞,紫光可鑒”。從康熙起,清帝所穿龍袍鳳衣,須以湖絲為料,海運(yùn)開禁后,英國女王維多利亞得到的生日禮物如是湖絲,便會(huì)愛不釋手。
在桑田面前,早有來自南朝的詩贊。吳均感嘆:“蔭陌復(fù)垂塘”“連連文蠶繭”。沈約在樂府詩《夜夜曲》中這樣描繪鄉(xiāng)人蠶織的場(chǎng)景:“孤燈暖不明,寒機(jī)曉猶織。”后來大詩人李白也用“吳地桑葉綠,吳蠶已三眠”詠吳蠶。
明清之際,南潯、雙林等江南市鎮(zhèn)興起,歐商?hào)|來,湖絲成為利布四方的國際性產(chǎn)品,輯里湖絲更成為宮廷織造和各地絲綢名品的首選原料。
絲綢加上一群魔鬼般商人,是關(guān)于這座城市的一段寓言。南潯的商人每一家門前都有自家的河埠,他們坐著小船,販絲滬上,崛起于上海十里洋場(chǎng)。從上海灘上捧回白花花的銀兩,再回到自家的河埠。這是一幅極富軟性美的水鄉(xiāng)歸舟圖。天際歸舟是悠閑中的潯商,負(fù)載著男兒們氣吞萬里的抱負(fù)。
南潯帶著這一華美絕倫的織物,沿著神秘的絲綢之路,裝點(diǎn)了世界名流仕女的夢(mèng)。南潯以耕桑之富,成為行商坐賈薈萃之所,成為富商云集的江南雄鎮(zhèn),造就了“十里桑陰水市陰”的江南特有的風(fēng)姿。有個(gè)統(tǒng)計(jì),咸豐末到光緒初20多年里,湖絲全盛時(shí)期,每年約有3000萬銀元匯入湖州各大錢莊票號(hào),用于收買蠶繭、絲綢,這些財(cái)富大多轉(zhuǎn)化為湖州的地方財(cái)富。
民國時(shí),湖州南潯出現(xiàn)了許多大的商業(yè)家族,他們的財(cái)富究竟有多少,誰也說不清。有人以三種動(dòng)物形體以標(biāo),有四象八牛七十二金狗的說法,財(cái)產(chǎn)總額亦在6000萬至8000萬兩之間,這個(gè)數(shù)字令朝廷吃驚,清政府每年財(cái)政收入也只有6000萬兩左右。
19世紀(jì)初的中國江南小鎮(zhèn)上的幾個(gè)絲商,主宰了一個(gè)大時(shí)代,這構(gòu)成中國近代史上一大奇觀。民國時(shí),南潯出現(xiàn)了上百個(gè)大宅院,首次在中國大地上聳立起了中西合璧的建筑群。江南園林在這方黃金水岸誕生了。南潯名園巨宅,富甲天下,使人領(lǐng)略“不出城廊,而享山林之美”的幽趣。
清皇室內(nèi)務(wù)府規(guī)定,凡皇帝、后妃所穿龍袍、鳳衣必須用輯里絲綢緞加工裁制??滴醯?件龍袍,指名選用輯里絲織造。道光皇帝愛穿湖縐做的衣褲,一次,他的一條湖縐褲子膝蓋處勾了一個(gè)小洞,決定補(bǔ)一補(bǔ)再穿。內(nèi)務(wù)府承辦此事,但開了3000兩銀子的價(jià),道光嫌貴,內(nèi)務(wù)府回稟說,皇上的湖縐褲子是有花的,剪了幾百匹,花頭相合的很少,所以花此巨銀,道光無奈默認(rèn)。
清光緒中葉,慈禧太后在頤和園辟桑園,造養(yǎng)蠶和織綢用的綺華館,命浙江巡撫杭松駿到湖州選招蠶娘織女進(jìn)宮,教授宮女飼蠶、繅絲、織綢技藝,每年三月仿古制行“皇后親蠶禮”,皇妃帶領(lǐng)妃嬪2人,公主、福晉、命婦7人,祭祀“先蠶”圣母西陵氏蠶神嫘祖,宮女、蠶女隨從采桑,在綺華館行蠶事。即便1900年6月八國聯(lián)軍進(jìn)攻北京,倉促出逃時(shí),慈禧仍不忘帶一名湖州蠶婦跟隨到西安。
湖絲的神奇,將我們帶進(jìn)那個(gè)年代。清時(shí),湖州府下屬菱湖一鎮(zhèn)的絲產(chǎn)量能抵杭州、嘉興、蘇州三府的產(chǎn)量,山西晉商中僅以經(jīng)營湖州絲綢發(fā)家的不在少數(shù),《喬家大院》里就有喬致庸當(dāng)年到湖州購買絲綢的故事。1912年至1928年的16年中,上??诎赌昃隹谳嬂锖z占上海出口蠶絲總量的38%。每年,來自世界各地的絲綢采購商,不遠(yuǎn)萬里趕赴湖州尋找供應(yīng)商。
湖絲,一位圣潔的縹緲使者
蠶,亞里士多德稱之為有角蟲,它吃進(jìn)的是桑葉,吐出的物體隨風(fēng)而變?yōu)槿庑蔚拈L(zhǎng)絲,被歐洲人視為珍品,絲綢將中西方文明緊緊裹在一起。
跨越黃沙和浪濤阻隔,絲綢流向世界。歐洲人愛絲綢可謂登峰造極,服裝配件除了拉夫領(lǐng)不用絲綢制作,其余皆用絲綢。皇室、貴族癡迷絲綢,甚至鞋子都用絲綢來裝飾。拿破侖穿的鞋子,就由海藍(lán)色絲綢所制,精美之極,旁人以為拿破侖穿了皇后的鞋呢。
在歐洲人的眼里,湖絲是最好原料。但清朝閉關(guān)鎖國,對(duì)蠶絲出口有嚴(yán)厲限制。乾隆有旨:“輯里湖絲出口限量5000斤,須現(xiàn)銀交易,不得以貨易貨且春絲不得出口。”兩廣總督在奏本中提到西洋商人用本國的商品交換湖絲,對(duì)此嘉慶皇帝很生氣,批復(fù):“西洋玻璃是土中提取的液體,鐘表可有可無,而自鳴鐘更是糞土,斷不可用本國的珍貴特產(chǎn)交換這些廢物!”英國人無從破局。
1849年6月30日,英國白金漢宮開了一次歷史性的會(huì)議,討論三十歲的維多利亞女王的一個(gè)創(chuàng)意:在倫敦舉辦萬國博覽會(huì),這就是第一屆世博會(huì)。維多利亞女王向世界各國發(fā)出世博會(huì)參展邀請(qǐng)。
消息傳到上海,寶順洋行買辦徐榮村把自己經(jīng)營的12包“榮記湖絲”寄至倫敦展覽。殊不知,他麻布包裹的“榮記湖絲”與雍容華貴的倫敦氛圍很不協(xié)調(diào)。
1851年5月1日,微雨的倫敦,在璀璨的水晶宮中,各國1.8萬個(gè)參展商、10萬多件展品粉墨登場(chǎng)。世博會(huì)開了5個(gè)月,評(píng)委們還沒有打開過這來自封閉的東方古國的商品。最后才想起這12包中國展品,打開一看,無不大吃一驚:潔白的“榮記湖絲”柔軟而富有彈性。緊裹半年之久中國蠶絲,仍然簇新質(zhì)佳。
最后的工藝評(píng)獎(jiǎng),產(chǎn)自中國湖州輯里村的“榮記湖絲”質(zhì)量最佳,獨(dú)獲金、銀大獎(jiǎng),維多利亞女王親自頒發(fā)獎(jiǎng)牌、獎(jiǎng)狀,并贈(zèng)“小飛人”畫幅以示贊譽(yù)。
倫敦世博會(huì)后,湖絲免檢進(jìn)入英國和其他歐洲市場(chǎng),風(fēng)光占盡歐洲大陸。
1857年,一個(gè)英國絲商代表團(tuán)來到湖州南潯。他們的考察報(bào)告極具詩意:南潯“幾乎家家養(yǎng)蠶,戶戶繅絲。每個(gè)人的生活中都有湖絲的味道?!焙菪Q桑業(yè)在民族工業(yè)興起中的角色已有“一絲”顯現(xiàn)。
1757年,清政府在南方實(shí)行公行制度,外貿(mào)被限制在廣州一個(gè)口岸,湖絲外銷要輾轉(zhuǎn)運(yùn)到廣州出口,被稱為“天子南庫”的廣州十三行,記錄了早期中國商人對(duì)外貿(mào)易的足跡。湖絲千里迢迢下廣州,這一路需要一個(gè)多月的時(shí)間。
海洋時(shí)代的代表性城市是上海,給上海輸送無數(shù)精彩的卻是湖州。1842年上海開埠,湖州人登場(chǎng),為上海灘撐足國人面子。湖州到上海,兩天水路,湖絲售價(jià)比從廣州出口下降35%。外銷成本驟降,外貿(mào)交易量猛增,直至占到全國外貿(mào)的90%,而其中90%是輯里湖絲。
19世紀(jì)中葉,家蠶微粒子病重創(chuàng)了地中海沿岸的絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè),為尋找健康的蠶種,意大利人卡斯特拉尼帶了6人組成科考隊(duì),于1859年來到馬可·波羅眼中“居民溫文爾雅,衣綾羅綢緞”的中國湖州。他們購買蠶種,還進(jìn)行了為期50天的養(yǎng)蠶實(shí)驗(yàn),學(xué)習(xí)養(yǎng)蠶技術(shù)、絲織工藝。
1870年,上海70家做絲的公司,有60家是湖州人開的,湖商成為上海灘的風(fēng)云群體。那時(shí)的《上海新報(bào)》,每天都有關(guān)于湖絲的報(bào)價(jià),絲價(jià)與今天的股票一樣,行情日變,與遙遠(yuǎn)的英國倫敦的一個(gè)湖絲交易所遙相呼應(yīng)。湖絲連接地球的兩端,將東西方文明串了起來。
中國作為絲綢的故鄉(xiāng),國家非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)名錄中,宋錦、緙絲、蜀錦、雙林綾絹和杭羅在列,湖絲更屬世界級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)。
歲月在不經(jīng)意間流過了千年,散發(fā)神秘光澤的湖絲,一頭連著中國,一頭連著世界,絲絲縷縷盡是湖州與世界的傳奇。這里出芳草出鮮花出佳人出才子出溫馨出纏綿,出風(fēng)花雪月,出明媚清澈,出委婉秀麗,出妖艷出柔弱。這里是中國大勢(shì)中的一筆氣魄。
The Name and Roots
The ancient network of trade routes called by historians as “Silk Road” stretched from Changan in China through India, Asia Minor, up throughout Mesopotamia, to Egypt, North Africa, Greece, Rome and Britain. The routes were formally established during the Han Dynasty (206 BC-220 AD) of China for the Han emissary Zhang Qian to transport goods, including a large amount of silk, to the “Western Regions” to seek allies in hope of whittling down the power of the nomadic tribes of Xiongnu living in the edges of the Pamirs at that time. Silk was also used by Emperor Wu as rewards to the victorious army taking part in the three major wars against Xiongnu.
In the Han times, silk was the most trustworthy hard currency, used together with coins and foodstuff as soldiers pay and provisions. The Han officially opened trade with the west, encouraging merchants to trade goods with buyers thousands miles away.
With many different kinds of merchandise traveling along the Silk Road, the popularity of Chinese silk reached the west, especially with Rome. By the time of Julius Caesar, silk was the most sought-after commodity in the empire. Cleopatra VII also favored Chinese silk for her formal wear used on diplomatic occasions.
The consequences of Zhang Qians journey were a bustling trading “thoroughfare” spanning continents, but it was not until 1872 that the term “Silk Road” was coined by the German geographer and traveler, Ferdinand von Richthofen to replace former references such as “Porcelain Road”, “Jade Routes”, “Buddhism Road”, etc.
Archeological exploration of the Qiansanyang area in eastern Huzhou started in the summer of 1934, when the underwater debris of the lake emerged at the end of a major drought and caught the attention of historians and archeological specialists. The findings in 1958 include uncarbonized remnants of silk fabrics made 4,400-4,200 years ago, revealing a dust-laden secret of Huzhou to the world and proving that the Qiansanyang area in Huzhou is the birthplace of the magic beauty of the mysterious fabric that enchanted the whole world.
The National Treasure
The sericultural glory of Qiansanyang as well as the greater Huzhou region is partly based on the areas unique farming tradition known as the “mulberry land-pool” farming system that ensures the finest environment for the production of the highest quality of silk. The system is justifiably a heavyweight entry in the worlds most important agricultural heritages.
The silk glory of Huzhou reached its peak in the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) times, and has never waned. Tucked away in the depths of Ditang, the vast water area stretching from Huzhou into the territory of the ancient town of Nanxun, is a small village called Jili, where the unique quality of soil nourished by a limpid river is ideal for mulberry cultivation and silkworm breeding. The superior quality of Jili raw silk also comes from the locals pedal-style silk-reeling machine.
In the Northern Song (960-1127), the vibrant silk industry of Huzhou spawned an official organization that administered silk affairs. Silk products crafted by people in Anji and Wukang became the most sought-after. In the Yuan (1279-1368) Dynasty, silk materials from Huzhou became bestsellers for buyers in Suzhou, Nanjing and the Songjiang area, thanks to the grafting technique used by farmers in Huzhou. The Southern Song times saw the entire Hangzhou-Jiaxing-Huzhou region turning into a spectacular scene of mulberry plantations. Silk made in Jili was recommended to the emperor by Zhu Guozhen and Wen Tiren, both Prime Minister in the Ming Dynasty.
With “made in Jili” becoming the synonym of high quality silk, the Ming and Qing saw the rise of many other silk varieties copycatting Jili silk. In the year 1684, a local official reported a foreign merchant brought Huzhou silk to Europe for trial use.
Huzhou silk was brought to Japan in the Tang (618-907), and used for writing imperial edicts and art creation.
Silk Legacy in Nanxun
Taking a walk in one of the mossy alleys in the ancient town of Nanxun and passing by a girl in silk , youd feel you are time traveling back to the Song and Yuan times.
Silks and satins are the symbol of the true nature of Huzhou – elegant, graceful, aristocratic, and sensuous. It is silk that laid the solid foundation of the long-time prosperity of Nanxun, where the fertile soil and rich water resources ensured by a labyrinth of rivers and streams make the vast plains ideal for sericulture.
The reputation of the fine silk produced in Nanxun reached its peak in the Tang times and lasted long into the Qing. The high quality of the fabric won the hearts of Emperor Xuanzong, Emperor Kangxi, and Queen Victoria, who received Nanxun silk as her birthday gift and loved it so much that she could hardly bear to put the fabric down. The vibrant sericulture of Nanxun also inspired many men of letters.
The Ming and Qing times saw the rise of several “silk towns” that further broadcast the fame of Huzhou silk in the wider world and brought a new, elite clientele for the unique quality of what was marketed as the “Jili silk”. The nine robes of Emperor Kangxi were all made of Jili silk. Emperor Daoguang treasured his silk garments so much that he had to see a wasteful of 3,000 taels of silver spent just to sew up a small hole in his pants. During the heyday of the Huzhou silk industry throughout the two decades between the years of the Emperor Xianfeng and the reign of Emperor Guangxu, an average of 30 million silver dollars poured into money shops in Huzhou every year for the trading of silkworm cocoons and silk products. Many stylish garden residences of silk trade tycoons in Nanxun have remained and offer a glimpse into the legendary wealth they accumulated.
Silk became such a big deal in the royal life of the decades of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty that Empress Dowager Cixi ordered a mulberry garden be built inside the Summer Palace to support the operation of a silk-processing factory used exclusively by the royal members. From 1912 to 1928, Jili silk accounted for 38% of the yearly silk export from the ports in Shanghai. Buyers from all over the world came to Huzhou for the silk trade.
The Cultural Ambassador
Silk has been playing an important role in the economic and cultural communication between China and Europe. The Europeans fell in love with this ethereal fabric at first sight. The superior fineness of the navy blue shoes of Napoleon is an interesting illustration of such fascination. However, at a time of strict export restriction due to the rarity of the material, Europeans racked their brains for trading outlets but in vain, until the opportunity finally came in 1849. Queen Victoria sent invitation letters to the world traders for the World Expo scheduled to open in 1851. When the news reached Shanghai, Xu Rongcun, a comprador based in Shanghai sent 12 packs of Jili silk to London. The snow-white silk thread in plain packaging was ignored by the jury for five months before it was opened. The softness and purity of the material immediately won the recognition of all jury members, winning a gold medal for the Shanghai-based trading company and marking a new start in the export of Jili silk to the West.
In a report written by a silk merchant delegation visiting Nanxun in 1857, Nanxuns bustling silk industry was described vividly as “the air smells like silk”.
Following the opening of Shanghai as an international commercial port in 1842, Huzhou silk rose to account for as much as 90% of the national foreign trade volume. In the 1870s, sixty of the seventy silk companies in Shanghai were run by businesspeople from Huzhou, with the prices of Huzhou silk updated daily on a local newspaper just like stock market quotations today.
The outbreak of the Pebrine disease, a disease of silkworm in the Mediterranean area in the mid-19th Century, brought a delegation of six Italians into Huzhou, where they spent 50 days learning silkworm rearing and silk reeling techniques from the locals.