One Day in Dublin, Ireland愛爾蘭都柏林一日游

寧克·克羅克　張菊/譯介

【導(dǎo)讀】讓人“見之即愛”的城不多，愛爾蘭首都都柏林是其中之一。這個被聯(lián)合國教科文組織命名為“文學(xué)之都”的首府城市有怎樣的似水年華呢？來個一日游領(lǐng)略一下吧。

Of all cities Ive ever visited， Dublin in Ireland was definitely one of the easiest to love right away. Its quite big but easy to get around （even on foot）. On terms of what to do in Dublin in a day， you can definitely pack it full of activities.

我游覽過的所有城市中，愛爾蘭的都柏林絕對是讓人見之即愛的一個。都柏林相當(dāng)大，但即便是步行，游逛起來也很方便。都柏林一日游游什么，有一點(diǎn)確鑿無疑：你完全可以把這一天安排得滿滿當(dāng)當(dāng)。

MORNING IN DUBLIN

一日游上午篇

Breakfast in Dublin

都柏林早餐

One of the best places to decide what to do in Dublin for a day is when you start your adventure over a nice breakfast， either in your hotel or at the little Keoghs Cafe. Here， they serve the best muffins Ive ever tasted and have a wide variety of teas and coffees to go with it. I heard the scones are also heavenly.

都柏林一日游的最佳打開方式，莫過于一頓美味早餐。早餐最佳地點(diǎn)是你住的酒店或名為基奧的那家小咖啡館?；鶌W咖啡館供應(yīng)我吃過最好吃的松餅，配以各種茶和咖啡，我聽說那兒的烤餅也美妙絕倫。

Trinity College & The Book of Kells

圣三一學(xué)院和《凱爾經(jīng)》

After breakfast I would head over to one of the places thats most popular to visit and can get crowded with tourists later in the day： Trinity College. Its just around the corner from Keoghs and unmissable on your day trip to Dublin.

早餐后，我會前往最受歡迎的游覽地：圣三一學(xué)院。稍晚點(diǎn)，那兒便會游人如織。圣三一學(xué)院就在基奧咖啡館附近，是都柏林一日游不容錯過之地。

Once youve found the entrance （a big wooden door）， its great to stroll over the campus and see the students go about their daily routines. But of course the main attraction here is The Book of Kells1. This 9th-century gospel manuscript and the Old Library2 from the 18th century are just incredible and a “must see”.

找到入口（大木門）之后，便可信步校園，看學(xué)子們往來穿梭日?；顒?。當(dāng)然，這兒最吸引人的是《凱爾經(jīng)》。這部9世紀(jì)的福音書手稿以及建于18世紀(jì)的“老圖書館”非同凡響，一定要看。

In the library， youll feel a bit like Belle in Beauty and the Beast， wanting to sing and dance around. Of course， you have to be quiet though… Its still a library！ The winding staircase in the 65-meter Long Room is my absolute favourite， although the busts of famous people like Francis Bacon， Cicero， William Shakespeare， John Locke， Isaac Newton， Plato and Socrates （to name a few） add also something magical to the scene. And do I even have to mention the 200，000 of the Librarys oldest books that are stacked up from ground to ceiling？ Oh my！

在圖書館，你會覺得自己有點(diǎn)像《美女與野獸》中的貝兒，想四處載歌載舞。但你必須保持安靜……這畢竟是圖書館啊！盡管弗朗西斯·培根、西塞羅、威廉·莎士比亞、約翰·洛克、艾薩克·牛頓、柏拉圖和蘇格拉底（僅舉其中幾位）等名人的半身像也為這一場景增添了一些神奇的色彩，但65米長的“長廳”中旋梯絕對是我的最愛。我一定得說說圖書館最古老的20萬本書，它們從地上堆到了天花板！天哪！

Apart from the Long Room in the library， the centerpiece of the exhibition is The Book of Kells itself. It was written around the year 800 AD and contains a stunning decorated copy of four gospels in a Latin text. It used to be a single volume， but it was rebound in four volumes in 1953 for conservation reasons. In all， there are 340 folios （680 pages）. Two of the volumes are normally on display， one opened at a decorated page， the other at a text opening and pages are kept being turned over.

除了圖書館的“長廳”，展品中最博眼球的是《凱爾經(jīng)》。該書大約寫于公元800年，由四冊裝幀華美的拉丁文福音書組成。它以前只有一卷，1953年，出于保護(hù)的原因被重新裝訂成了四卷?？偣灿?40對開頁（680頁）。四部中的兩部對外展示：一部在插圖頁處打開，另一部在文字頁處打開，每天（由工作人員）翻頁展出。

AFTERNOON IN DUBLIN

一日游下午篇

Lunch in Dublin

都柏林午餐

Lets continue our Dublin day itinerary with a great place for lunch： Brick Alley Cafe in the Temple Bar area. They have great fruit shakes， sandwiches and bagels. And they serve the most amazing white hot chocolate youll find in Dublin.

讓我們繼續(xù)都柏林一日游行程，在一個很棒的地方來頓午餐：圣殿酒吧區(qū)的磚巷咖啡館。那兒的水果奶昔、三明治和貝果都很棒，還有都柏林最棒的熱白巧克力。

The whole of Temple Bar is just great to walk around， see some street art and have a sneaky pint before you continue your explorations.

繼續(xù)下午的探索之旅前，整個圣殿酒吧區(qū)都值得走走逛逛，看看街頭藝術(shù)，悄悄喝上一杯。

Another lunch option could be Bretzel Bakery. Its a great bakery in Dublins old Jewish quarter， perhaps the best of the city. They have everything from （kosher） wholegrain to olive and walnut loaves and Irish brown soda. Dont miss the sweet selection of buns， sponges， tarts and cakes.

另一個可以吃午餐的地方是布雷策爾面包店，都柏林老猶太區(qū)一家很棒的面包店，也許是都柏林城最好的。從（符合猶太教食規(guī)的）全麥面包到橄欖核桃面包，再到愛爾蘭蘇打面包，應(yīng)有盡有。不要錯過甜甜的小圓面包、海綿蛋糕、果餡餅和蛋糕。

The Guinness Storehouse

健力士黑啤展覽館

Now lets head over to one of the most famous attractions in Dublin： The Guinness Storehouse3， definitely a must-visit in Dublin in one day， even if youre not a beer drinker. There is an interactive exhibition when you enter the building. On 7 stories4 of the insanely amazing designed building， you go through 260 years of Guinness history and of course you can taste it in their restaurant and cafe. Dont miss the panoramic view on the top floors Gravity Bar.

現(xiàn)在，讓我們前往都柏林最著名的景點(diǎn)之一：健力士黑啤展覽館。即使你不愛喝啤酒，這也絕對是都柏林一日游必到之地。進(jìn)入大樓時，有一個互動展出。這棟八層樓的建筑極有設(shè)計感，可由此了解健力士黑啤260年的歷史。當(dāng)然，也可以在這兒的餐廳和咖啡館嘗嘗黑啤。千萬不要錯過頂層的“重力”酒吧，在那兒能欣賞都柏林全景。

The Old Jameson Distillery

老尊美醇釀酒廠

The Old Jameson Distillery is another great place to visit， even if youre not a Whiskey5 drinker. At Jameson， you get to go through the entire history and production process of the distillery. The girl that led us around had a great way of explaining and cracked a lot of jokes. Typical Irish！ It ends with a tasting session， or you could head over to the restaurant or bar.

即使不喝威士忌，老尊美醇釀酒廠也是另一個值得參觀的好地方。在此，可以了解酒廠的整個歷史和生產(chǎn)過程。帶我們游覽的那個女孩能說會道，講了很多笑話。典型的愛爾蘭人！游覽的最后環(huán)節(jié)是品酒，當(dāng)然，也可以前往酒廠的餐廳或酒吧。

St. Patricks Cathedral

圣帕特里克大教堂

After all this sin6， its straight onto St Patricks Cathedral. I must admit that Im not into religion and perhaps even less interested in churches， but for the Saint Patricks Cathedral in Dublin I made an exception.

犯下這么多罪過（喝了這么多酒）之后，該直奔圣帕特里克大教堂（贖罪）了。我得承認(rèn)，我對宗教并不感興趣，對教堂也許就更不感興趣了，但對都柏林圣帕特里克大教堂，我破例了一次。

St. Patrick was a 5th-century Romano-British Christian missionary and bishop in Ireland. Hes the primary patron saint of Ireland. On the site of the current cathedral， a stone church was built here by the Normans in 1191. This one was rebuilt in the early 13th century into the building that you can see today. It has been severely damaged by storm and fire a couple of times and has therefore been altered several times in between.

圣帕特里克是5世紀(jì)羅馬—不列顛基督教傳教士和愛爾蘭主教，被奉為愛爾蘭的主要守護(hù)神。1191年，諾曼人就在現(xiàn)在這個大教堂所在地修建了一座石頭教堂。今天可以看到的建筑是13世紀(jì)初重建的。教堂曾幾次受到風(fēng)暴和火災(zāi)的嚴(yán)重破壞，因此在這期間多次重建。

Jonathan Swift， author of Gullivers Travels， was the dean of the cathedral from 1713 to 1745， hes buried in the church， next to his wife Esther Johnson.

《格列佛游記》的作者喬納森·斯威夫特1713年至1745年間擔(dān)任大教堂主持牧師。他與妻子埃絲特·約翰遜均安葬于此。

The National Museum of Ireland

愛爾蘭國家博物館

If you are a history buff， then The National Museum of Ireland is the place for you. It has four locations， of which three are in Dublin. I visited the Archaeology one， because my dad is an archaeologist and it always attracts me the most… and of course a little bit because it had free admission.

如果你是一個歷史愛好者，那么愛爾蘭國家博物館就是你要去的地方。它有四個分館，其中三個在都柏林。我參觀了考古歷史博物館，因?yàn)槲腋赣H是一名考古學(xué)家，這方面總是最吸引我……當(dāng)然還有一點(diǎn)，因?yàn)樵擆^免費(fèi)入場。

I really enjoyed this museum as it was a great introduction into the Celtic and Medieval art and you almost get to spend one day in Ireland itself. They covered prehistoric Ireland as well as the interesting Viking Age of Ireland， which I knew very little about myself， so I really enjoyed that.

我真的很喜歡這個考古館，因?yàn)樗鼘P爾特人和中世紀(jì)藝術(shù)有很詳盡的介紹，這兒就值得花上愛爾蘭之旅幾乎一天的時間。該館涵蓋了愛爾蘭史前史及有趣的維京時代歷史，我本人對那兩段歷史幾乎一無所知，因此我真的很喜歡這里。

EVENING IN DUBLIN

一日游之傍晚篇

Restaurants in Dublin

都柏林的餐館

In the evening， the Temple Bar area is a very lively place to eat and drink. There is always some live music going on， for example at the Temple Bar Pub. There are many pubs in the Temple Bar area， and we also visited Oliver St. John Gogartys for a nice pub dinner such as fish and chips.

傍晚，圣殿酒吧區(qū)是吃飯喝酒的好去處，那兒總有些現(xiàn)場音樂演出，比如與該區(qū)同名的圣殿酒吧就是演出地點(diǎn)。這一區(qū)域有許多酒吧，我們還去了奧利弗·圣約翰·戈加蒂酒吧，享用了一頓美味的酒吧晚餐，餐點(diǎn)包括炸魚薯條。

For a more quiet dinner， I recommend The Green Hen. This lovely place is a French bistro offering classic dishes in a relaxed atmosphere. Rustic Stone is also a nice option. I really enjoyed dinner at this restaurant in the Creative Quarter of Dublin. I had the quail， because I never had that before， but found it too difficult to eat because its full of bones and barely got any meat of it. I did enjoy my main though， which was tuna steak on a hot stone that you could finish cooking yourself.

如果想來一頓安靜的晚餐，我推薦“綠母雞”。這是一家很不錯的法國小酒館，氛圍輕松，菜肴經(jīng)典。“粗石”也是一個不錯的選擇。我非常喜歡在都柏林創(chuàng)意區(qū)的這家餐廳用餐。因?yàn)橐郧皬膩頉]吃過鵪鶉，我點(diǎn)了鵪鶉，但我?guī)缀鯚o法下嘴，因?yàn)樗枪穷^，幾乎吃不到肉。不過，我很喜歡我的主菜：一塊熱石頭上的金槍魚排，可以自己把它烤熟。

For dessert， perhaps try Murphys Ice Cream！ They were handing out samples just as I walked pass （ok， I quickly crossed the street when I saw that）. YumYum. These guys make natural ice-cream without any colourings， flavourings， or powdered milk and you can taste the goodness！

至于甜點(diǎn)，也許可以嘗嘗墨菲冰淇淋！他們分發(fā)免費(fèi)試吃樣品時，我剛巧路過（好吧，是我看到他們在發(fā)樣品，便很快穿過了馬路）。好吃極了。他們制作的是純天然的冰淇淋，不加色素、香精或奶粉，你能吃出它的美味！

（譯者單位：北京化工大學(xué)）