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      一枝一葉總關(guān)情

      2016-11-30 11:36徐繼宏
      文化交流 2016年10期
      關(guān)鍵詞:河陽縉云燒餅

      徐繼宏

      過些天,趙月枝教授又將從千里之外的加拿大溫哥華啟程,踏上赴家鄉(xiāng)浙江縉云的歸途。2016年10月9日至12日,由她發(fā)起的縉云“河陽論壇”將再次聚焦“鄉(xiāng)土文化復(fù)興:機(jī)遇與挑戰(zhàn)”,探索鄉(xiāng)土中國的未來。筆者通過電話、微信,對她進(jìn)行了采訪。她說:“作為海外華人知識分子的一員,我有責(zé)任、也樂于搭建這樣一個(gè)平臺,促進(jìn)家鄉(xiāng)的美麗鄉(xiāng)村建設(shè)和探索鄉(xiāng)土中國的未來?!?/p>

      鄉(xiāng)情:為了揮之不去的兒時(shí)記憶

      “隨著時(shí)光流逝,我的縉云話可能更傳統(tǒng),因?yàn)槲冶3至水?dāng)年走出去時(shí)候的縉云話腔調(diào)和用詞,反倒是現(xiàn)在家鄉(xiāng)的縉云話可能加入了不少普通話的成分?!甭牭节w月枝教授一口流利的縉云話,筆者難以相信她已在外生活了36年,鄉(xiāng)音無改!

      1965年1月,趙月枝出生在縉云巖山下村。1980年,15歲的她以全國高考浙江省前6名的優(yōu)異成績考取北京廣播學(xué)院新聞系。1984年,19歲的她又以總分第一的佳績考取教育部公費(fèi)留學(xué)資格,于1986年進(jìn)入加拿大西蒙·弗雷澤大學(xué)傳播學(xué)院攻讀研究生課程。當(dāng)時(shí)的趙月枝并不知道,那所學(xué)校的傳播學(xué)在國際上享有盛譽(yù)。

      在西蒙·弗雷澤大學(xué),趙月枝獲得了碩士、博士學(xué)位。之后,她潛心教學(xué)和科研工作,參加國際性學(xué)術(shù)活動(dòng),成為泛北美地區(qū)華人傳播學(xué)領(lǐng)軍人物。2014年,她受聘為中國國務(wù)院僑辦“海外專家咨詢委員會”委員。2015年,她作為海外學(xué)者代表,登上了北京“9·3”閱兵的觀禮臺。

      盡管趙月枝背對家鄉(xiāng)、面對世界,但腦海里永遠(yuǎn)抹不去老家一座叫“十八間”的民居的圖影,用她自己的話說,那里雖然沒有了自己的父母親,卻還有其他親人、師長、朋友,還有養(yǎng)育她的河陽的山山水水。她動(dòng)情地對筆者說,作為知識分子,身上固有的文化憂思和社會責(zé)任感,讓自己深深認(rèn)識到,用掌握的全球前沿學(xué)術(shù)思想反哺父老鄉(xiāng)親、參與鄉(xiāng)村文化建設(shè),是情之所至、理所當(dāng)然。這些年,趙月枝回國越來越頻繁,回縉云老家越來越多。“只為那揮之不去的兒時(shí)記憶!”

      在趙月枝看來,沒有鄉(xiāng)村的崛起就沒有中國的崛起。縉云河陽村作為千年古村落,是研究中國鄉(xiāng)土文化的好基地。在她的努力下,2015年7月,“縉云河陽鄉(xiāng)村研究院”揭牌成立?!斑@不僅僅是因?yàn)楠M隘的鄉(xiāng)愁,更因?yàn)楹雨柟培l(xiāng)村的千年歷史淵源和濃厚的文化積淀?!壁w月枝說,她要為河陽的長期發(fā)展和縉云、麗水、浙江的新農(nóng)村建設(shè)提供文化和智力支持,讓世界分享獨(dú)一無二的中國鄉(xiāng)土文明。

      趙月枝認(rèn)為,研究中國問題,不能沒有城鄉(xiāng)關(guān)系的視角,必須“走出象牙塔,跨進(jìn)泥巴墻”。目前,河陽鄉(xiāng)村研究院已經(jīng)開展了卓有成效的學(xué)術(shù)研究和交流活動(dòng),包括舉辦首屆“河陽論壇”暨“鄉(xiāng)村、文化與傳播學(xué)術(shù)周”活動(dòng),組織“從全球到村莊”中、加聯(lián)合學(xué)術(shù)調(diào)研活動(dòng)和“傳播、文化與全球南方”國際暑期班活動(dòng),啟動(dòng)“口述河陽、口述縉云”鄉(xiāng)村歷史工作等。而第二屆“河陽論壇”暨“鄉(xiāng)土文化復(fù)興:機(jī)遇與挑戰(zhàn)”活動(dòng),又將于金秋十月舉行。趙月枝為此專門返回家鄉(xiāng)。

      “中國的發(fā)展到了轉(zhuǎn)折點(diǎn)上。我們這代人經(jīng)歷了人民公社時(shí)期和改革開放年代,到了城市,甚至到了西方,在彌補(bǔ)城鄉(xiāng)鴻溝上,如果我們不去做,可能兒女們就很難再回來做了?!?/p>

      鄉(xiāng)土:為讓文化遺產(chǎn)惠澤人民

      趙月枝說:“作為一名海外游子,沒有什么能比把家鄉(xiāng)文化和經(jīng)濟(jì)作為自己的研究對象更令人興奮的了。”她的研究從縉云燒餅開始。

      在趙月枝的介紹里,縉云燒餅雖是一種小食,卻是家鄉(xiāng)文化的象征,它意味著鄉(xiāng)土,意味著童年、少年,那些吃著燒餅去趕集、去看戲的場景,能喚起熱鬧、溫馨、親情等情感回憶。她說,“縉云燒餅可以成為家鄉(xiāng)的名片,至少在我外出求學(xué)后,屬于對家鄉(xiāng)的思念?!?/p>

      “2015年,我回國八九趟,航行里程超過15萬公里,絕大部分穿行在溫哥華和縉云之間?!壁w月枝歷時(shí)半年的調(diào)研,兩期總計(jì)近300頁、15萬余字的《舌尖上的縉云,燒餅中的乾坤:縉云燒餅品牌推廣與產(chǎn)業(yè)培育評估與建議》和《縉云燒餅:從民生工程到新發(fā)展理念》研究報(bào)告出爐。

      “有人問我,做這個(gè)研究是希望在溫哥華吃上燒餅?這當(dāng)然也對,因?yàn)槲蚁M@個(gè)產(chǎn)業(yè)能做到國外去。但更重要的動(dòng)機(jī)是,我希望通過縉云燒餅產(chǎn)業(yè)化開發(fā)個(gè)案,研究如何更好地維護(hù)當(dāng)下鄉(xiāng)村文化遺產(chǎn)的公共性。在走向產(chǎn)業(yè)化的過程中,如何讓這樣一個(gè)文化遺產(chǎn)使所有人都得益,才是我要關(guān)注的課題?!?/p>

      兩期報(bào)告中,首期報(bào)告圍繞縉云燒餅品牌建設(shè)和產(chǎn)業(yè)提升兩大核心內(nèi)容,對縉云燒餅的產(chǎn)業(yè)規(guī)劃進(jìn)行評估,并提出建設(shè)性意見。以此為基礎(chǔ),二期報(bào)告試圖從文化、發(fā)展理念和治國理政的層面提升,發(fā)掘新亮點(diǎn),研究新問題。

      研究報(bào)告的執(zhí)筆人之一,中國傳媒大學(xué)傳播政治經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)研究所助理研究員龔偉亮,在兩次調(diào)研中有許多難忘的記憶,有說不完的故事。他告訴筆者,3個(gè)月時(shí)間,他們走訪燒餅店鋪、路邊攤59家,訪問燒餅從業(yè)人員165人,采訪政府及相關(guān)部門負(fù)責(zé)人12人,隨機(jī)電話采訪燒餅師傅95人,街訪縉云群眾125人,線上線下問卷314份?!霸谀戏降臎龊?,從縣城的人來人往、車馬雜喧,到壺鎮(zhèn)小巷的幽深謐遠(yuǎn)、石板綿綿,我們在那股略帶咸香的梅菜味兒里捕捉一代人的感覺,尋覓一座城的美食記憶。好溪之水,生生不息;嗟我情誼,其真其摯?!饼弬チ辽钋榈卣f:“令我沒想到的是,這輩子自己會窩在浙南的一個(gè)縣城吃了上百個(gè)燒餅后寫出一篇論文,更沒有想到,一個(gè)燒餅會在江南水鄉(xiāng)有如此大的影響力?!?/p>

      如今,縉云燒餅從原來的路邊小吃向產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈、文化、富民、金名片等各個(gè)方位延伸,在保持鄉(xiāng)土味的同時(shí),實(shí)現(xiàn)了“高大上”的華麗轉(zhuǎn)身。2015年,縉云燒餅被評為“中華名小吃”,并走出縉云、走出國門。目前,230家縉云燒餅示范店遍布全國20多個(gè)省、市、區(qū)。加拿大多倫多、澳大利亞悉尼、意大利米蘭、阿聯(lián)酋迪拜也都成功開出縉云燒餅店。羅馬尼亞、智利等國華僑也慕名來到縉云學(xué)習(xí)考察。

      鄉(xiāng)愁:為了人民做學(xué)術(shù)研究

      見微知著,趙月枝通過洞悉一個(gè)小小“燒餅中的乾坤”,更加堅(jiān)定了自己的追求。她說:“凡是文化的、共同遺產(chǎn)性的東西,凡是生態(tài)的東西,要開發(fā),就一定要走出一條公共的、惠及全民的、參與性的、民主化的道路來,否則,就不可能成功?!?

      回顧自己36年間從“離開河陽、背對三農(nóng)、走向都市”到今天“離開都市、面對三農(nóng)、回到河陽”的歷程,趙月枝感慨地指出,自己最重要的身份不是什么國際學(xué)者、專家教授,而是一個(gè)普通中國農(nóng)民的女兒。她把河陽鄉(xiāng)村研究院視為一件回報(bào)家鄉(xiāng)的禮物,在揭牌儀式上,承諾要把研究院建成“為河陽人民傳承耕讀家風(fēng)傳統(tǒng)和探索中國鄉(xiāng)村復(fù)興道路的前沿陣地”。正是這種桑梓情懷,這種鄉(xiāng)愁感知,讓她對“農(nóng)耕文明何去何從”“鄉(xiāng)土情懷何去何從”的課題孜孜以求。

      鄉(xiāng)愁是感性的。趙月枝說,鄉(xiāng)愁是她對每個(gè)人物、每個(gè)物件、每個(gè)生活場景、每輪春夏秋冬的鮮活記憶;是總把那作為溫哥華屏障的“北岸”山巒想像成延綿于縉云的群山;是每次臨別縉云,行囊里裝滿土面、梅菜、筍干、薏米、黃花菜、番薯干、茶葉等各種土特產(chǎn)。

      鄉(xiāng)愁是知性的。趙月枝說,她旅行的足跡遍及世界許多角落,但對縉云的歷史文化知之甚少,除了方圓20里內(nèi)走親戚或砍柴路過的村莊外。于是,鄉(xiāng)愁使她變成了一個(gè)縉云籍的社會文化學(xué)者,在繞了地球無數(shù)圈后,重新面對鄉(xiāng)土中國,在求知路上再出發(fā)。

      鄉(xiāng)愁是理性的。趙月枝說,自從2013年中央城鎮(zhèn)化工作會議以來,媒體上、微信里、國人的心坎中,鄉(xiāng)愁綿綿不絕。鄉(xiāng)愁作為文化學(xué)意義上的一個(gè)時(shí)代的“心理結(jié)構(gòu)”,是幾代人對國家和個(gè)人命運(yùn)歸宿的考問,是快速全球化、現(xiàn)代化、商業(yè)化和城鎮(zhèn)化的中華民族對自己文化本根的一個(gè)追尋,是人們對日益深化的城鄉(xiāng)鴻溝的跨越,是世界上唯一持續(xù)的農(nóng)耕文明對自身的發(fā)展道路與生活方式的探索?!拔移诖N云在建設(shè)生態(tài)社會主義的政治經(jīng)濟(jì)、社會文化的實(shí)踐中能起引領(lǐng)作用?!壁w月枝說。

      拳拳赤子心,殷殷奉獻(xiàn)情。作為浙江省“千人計(jì)劃”專家,趙月枝帶領(lǐng)自己的學(xué)術(shù)團(tuán)隊(duì)在縉云挖掘鄉(xiāng)村建設(shè)和鄉(xiāng)土文化產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展的案例,并希望以此研究促進(jìn)鄉(xiāng)村社會經(jīng)濟(jì)和文化建設(shè)?!靶┬∥岵苤菘h吏,一枝一葉總關(guān)情?!泵鎸o她以無限學(xué)術(shù)靈感的縉云大地,采訪結(jié)束之際,趙月枝借用一位學(xué)者同仁的話說:“無論我在世界上獲得了多少真知灼見,我的本根依然在中國文化之中,我的心里始終燃著一炷中華文明之香?!?/p>

      (本文照片由趙月枝、應(yīng)梅芬提供)

      [鏈接] 趙月枝,加拿大西蒙·弗雷澤大學(xué)傳播學(xué)院加拿大國家特聘教授、中國傳媒大學(xué)教育部長江學(xué)者講座教授。她曾作為首位女性及非英美背景學(xué)者獲達(dá)拉斯·斯邁思獎(jiǎng)、埃德溫·貝克獎(jiǎng),表明國際主流傳播學(xué)界對她的學(xué)術(shù)貢獻(xiàn)的認(rèn)可。

      Professor of International Renown and Her Roots in Rural Jinyun

      By Xu Jihong

      Professor Zhao Yuezhi will soon come back to her hometown Jinyun in southwestern Zhejiang to attend a forum to be held on October 9 through 12, 2016. At this years forum, which she founded, experts will focus upon opportunities and challenges in the revival of rural culture. The other day, I had an interview with her on phone and through WeChat, one of the most popular social media in China. “As a member of the overseas Chinese intellectual community, I consider it my duty and feel happy to make such a platform so as to promote rural reconstruction and explore the rural future of the country,” says the professor.

      Professor Zhao is Canada Research Chair in the Political Economy of Global Communication and a professor of communication at Simon Fraser University in Vancouver, Canada. An established scholar of international communications, Zhao speaks the Jinyun dialect fluently, much to my surprise, given that she left Jinyun 36 years ago. The dialect she remembers and speaks is a little different from its current version which has absorbed a lot of neologies from the standard spoken language thanks to the nationwide presence of modern media.

      Zhao Yuezhi was born into a farmers family in Yanshanxia Village, Jinyun County in January 1965. In 1980, she enrolled into Beijing Broadcasting Collage as a top student from Zhejiang at the age of 15 and in 1984 she qualified as the top examinee to study abroad with scholarships of the Ministry of Education. In 1986 she came to Simon Fraser University in Canada for postgraduate programs. Back then she was not fully aware that the university enjoys international fame for its communication courses. She attained a master degree and a doctoral degree at Simon Frazer University. And she is recipient of several prestigious international awards on communication. In 2014, she became a member on the overseas expert consultation committee under the Overseas Chinese Office of the State Council. In 2015, she viewed the September 3 Military Parade at Tiananmen Square as a representative of overseas Chinese scholars.

      As an international scholar, Zhao values her hometown as a perfect prototype of what ancient rural China looks like. The forum she launched is named after Yunyang, an ancient village with a history of more than 1,000 years. In July 2015 Jinyun Yunyang Institute of Rural Studies was unveiled under her guidance. A series of events in academics and exchanges has unfolded since then. The professor holds that an urban-rural perspective is a must in the studies of China. A scholar of cultural studies must step out of the tower of ivory and get into villages.

      The professor explains that it is high time to examine the urban-rural gap that exists in China. She explains her motivation: “China is now at a junction in its development. My generation has experienced the years of the peoples communes and the reform and opening-up to the outside world. Many of us have moved to cities and some of us have moved to the west. If we dont do something about the gap between the rural and the urban of China, the next generation will find it harder to come back to do it right again.”

      Her latest focus on Jinyun is its sesame cake, a popular breakfast fast food choice in China for at least a thousand years. In recent years, Jinyun Cake has experienced a phenomenal spread and many local cake makers have traveled to cities in about 20 provinces and municipalities to provide consumers with this traditional delicacy. Cake makers have set up shops in Toronto, Sidney, Milan and Dubai. And some overseas Chinese have visited Jinyun to learn about the cake and they are planning to set up their own Jinyun Cake shops in Romania and Chile.

      Zhao and her colleague Gong Weiliang, an assistant researcher with Communication University of China, did a three-month field study of the cake across Jinyun. They visited 59 roadside cake shops and talked with 165 people who made cakes. They talked with 12 government officials. They conducted telephone interviews with 95 cake makers who were randomly picked. They also visited 125 locals in Jinyun and collected 314 completed questionnaires online and offline. Gong Weiliang said he had never dreamed of eating more than 100 sesame cakes and completing an academic paper and that he had never dreamed that such a small snack could produce such a huge impact in Jiangnan or the south of the Yangtze River Delta.

      Altogether, Zhao has produced two reports on the cake. She considers the cake as a case study in the perspective of rural cultural heritage and its industrialization.

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