傅淑青

初秋的一日，夕陽(yáng)將落，筆者在村民傅繼泉、陳小香夫婦帶領(lǐng)下，參觀了位于浦江縣白馬鎮(zhèn)永豐村的浙江省級(jí)文保單位——白馬土庫(kù)。

筆者的老家就在鄰村。記得幼時(shí)，在夏夜或者冬日的午后，最愛(ài)聽(tīng)聚在明堂的老人們興致勃勃地講述土庫(kù)的種種傳奇；出來(lái)工作后，開(kāi)始對(duì)家鄉(xiāng)的歷史、風(fēng)俗、文化漸感興趣，延宕日久，終于有了這次探尋之旅。

溝通海上絲路的重要環(huán)節(jié)

回老家之前，筆者查閱了一些資料，最為權(quán)威的說(shuō)法應(yīng)是《辭?！方o出的解釋：土庫(kù)，即為明朝萬(wàn)歷年間荷蘭商人設(shè)在中國(guó)沿海一帶的貿(mào)易站。

為什么荷商要在中國(guó)建土庫(kù)？傅繼泉給出了這樣的回答：白馬文史小組在《明朝列國(guó)外傳》和《東西洋考》等書(shū)中考證到，明隆慶元年（1567），皇帝朱載垕調(diào)整海外貿(mào)易政策，允許私人販貨東、西兩洋，海上貿(mào)易往來(lái)頻繁；萬(wàn)歷年間，政府實(shí)行海禁，但仍有大膽的商人鋌而走險(xiǎn)，私下與荷商貿(mào)易，并在福建、浙江、廣東沿海發(fā)達(dá)地區(qū)建有土庫(kù)九座，白馬土庫(kù)是其中之一，也是現(xiàn)在國(guó)內(nèi)唯一的留存。

傅繼泉向筆者介紹，白馬一帶是諸暨、義烏、浦江三縣交界處，楊家埠直接連接浦陽(yáng)江和錢(qián)塘江，出得杭州灣，水陸通暢，因而自古商賈云集。金華蘭溪商人董華了解這里百姓安居樂(lè)業(yè)，民風(fēng)淳樸，而巡檢司又在六七里地以外，管理相對(duì)松懈，絕對(duì)是民間貿(mào)易、私下藏貨的絕佳之處，便向荷商麻韋郎建議，在白馬永豐村建起了一座規(guī)模龐大的土庫(kù)，成為溝通浙江中、西部地區(qū)與海上絲綢之路的一個(gè)重要環(huán)節(jié)。

時(shí)至清朝康熙年間，政府嚴(yán)令禁止和外國(guó)人通商，自此，迫于壓力的荷商全部撤出了中國(guó)，這座歷史悠久、略帶神秘色彩的土庫(kù)，失去往日的作用。后來(lái)，土庫(kù)成了民居房，惟有落日殘映出一些當(dāng)年海上絲路的繁華景象。

比鄰而立幾十年

土庫(kù)已有400多年歷史，進(jìn)入本世紀(jì)初，除了正門(mén)墻壁和房屋柱子尚屬完好外，其余均裂縫縱橫，隨時(shí)有倒塌的可能，十七八戶人家陸續(xù)遷出。

文史愛(ài)好者傅繼泉見(jiàn)狀痛心疾首，他花費(fèi)大量時(shí)間、精力查找、編寫(xiě)土庫(kù)資料，不停地向媒體和民眾呼吁，不斷向有關(guān)部門(mén)反映土庫(kù)的真實(shí)情況。2006年，他終于從縣里爭(zhēng)取到80萬(wàn)元人民幣專項(xiàng)修復(fù)資金，從東陽(yáng)請(qǐng)來(lái)美術(shù)工藝大師吳初偉和技術(shù)團(tuán)隊(duì)，本著“修舊如舊”的原則，對(duì)土庫(kù)進(jìn)行修復(fù)。

5個(gè)月的修復(fù)期間，傅繼泉、陳小香一天不落地義務(wù)幫工，并貼錢(qián)給技術(shù)團(tuán)隊(duì)送水送飯。修復(fù)告成后，傅繼泉默默無(wú)償?shù)馗善鹆斯芾怼⑶鍧嵉墓ぷ?，接待各類參觀者和媒體，分發(fā)資料。他花下去的時(shí)間無(wú)法估算，光是資料打印費(fèi)就用去數(shù)千元，好在子女們都能理解，常匯錢(qián)補(bǔ)貼。

村主任傅錫民告訴筆者，傅繼泉主動(dòng)接手土庫(kù)的相關(guān)工作在20世紀(jì)90年代末，至今已近20年，他從未向村里要求過(guò)任何物資補(bǔ)助。村支書(shū)傅繼海感動(dòng)地說(shuō)，傅繼泉為保護(hù)地方文物作出了突出貢獻(xiàn)，他的無(wú)私和熱心腸值得所有人學(xué)習(xí)。

當(dāng)筆者問(wèn)傅繼泉為何去做這件事時(shí)，他說(shuō)，于私，他家和土庫(kù)比鄰而立幾十年，充滿了感情；于公，土庫(kù)具有很高的歷史研究和藝術(shù)欣賞價(jià)值，如任其倒塌，就永遠(yuǎn)不能復(fù)原，這無(wú)疑是很大的損失，自己所做的，是每個(gè)富有責(zé)任感的公民都應(yīng)該做的。他還表示說(shuō)，只要自己活著一天，就會(huì)將保護(hù)、修繕、宣傳土庫(kù)等工作做到底。

商行標(biāo)志與蝴蝶形的馬頭墻

按照建筑規(guī)制修復(fù)的土庫(kù)，沿用的基本都是拆下來(lái)的原件。

整座院落坐北朝南，有兩進(jìn)20余間房，建筑面積776平方米，規(guī)模頗大，結(jié)構(gòu)頗精，風(fēng)格也獨(dú)特。

土庫(kù)有左、右兩個(gè)臺(tái)門(mén)，上方分別嵌著蓮花、寶瓶和馬蹄形銀錠等圖案，這是中國(guó)發(fā)現(xiàn)的最早商行標(biāo)志。另外，土庫(kù)有蝴蝶形的馬頭墻總計(jì)二十二個(gè)，其數(shù)量之多，在國(guó)內(nèi)也是鮮有的。傅繼泉說(shuō)，這些圖案昭示著土庫(kù)的靈魂；這些馬頭墻演繹著土庫(kù)的史跡。

傅繼泉指著土庫(kù)前的空地說(shuō)，此處原本為明堂，平坦開(kāi)闊、水聚交流，四周是大片農(nóng)田，可以看到浦陽(yáng)江，是地氣聚合之處，也兼做臨時(shí)卸貨之用。20世紀(jì)70年代后，永豐村人口增加，土地資源緊張，孤零零矗立的土庫(kù)便逐漸混雜在民居里。傅繼泉也正是那時(shí)候搬遷到土庫(kù)附近的。

進(jìn)入土庫(kù)，筆者發(fā)現(xiàn)，除了追求精致美觀，荷商麻韋朗對(duì)安全性和密封性也有很高要求。整座土庫(kù)，只有第一進(jìn)的一間房在外墻上開(kāi)了窗，用作朝外觀望，但釘有縱橫交錯(cuò)的鋼條柵欄。

土庫(kù)堆放貨物、財(cái)寶和槍支彈藥，需要干燥。荷商麻韋郎精妙地設(shè)計(jì)了整座院落的排水系統(tǒng)。第一進(jìn)二層三間、第二進(jìn)二層七間以及左右兩邊各五間廂房，圍成一個(gè)“品”字形，有前進(jìn)大天井和后進(jìn)兩個(gè)小天井；每個(gè)天井都有單獨(dú)的集水坑，承擔(dān)排水功能。傅繼泉說(shuō)，他住在這里四十多年，從未看見(jiàn)土庫(kù)有過(guò)積水，哪怕是1998年全村發(fā)大水時(shí)，土庫(kù)也安然無(wú)恙。

“發(fā)現(xiàn)荷蘭土庫(kù)真是難得”

為了保護(hù)土庫(kù)，居住里面的十七八戶人家都已搬離，村里每年給予每間房500元的補(bǔ)助。村主任傅錫民向筆者透露，現(xiàn)在村里正通過(guò)換取宅基地等方式，把土庫(kù)分散的私人產(chǎn)權(quán)變?yōu)榧w產(chǎn)權(quán)。

在傅繼泉的大力呼吁下，上級(jí)部門(mén)對(duì)土庫(kù)也越來(lái)越重視。2015年，浦江縣文化局出資，把明堂做成了青石板的，使之與土庫(kù)的整體藝術(shù)格調(diào)更加相符。

土庫(kù)引來(lái)不少文史界、考古界人士的考察，傅繼泉每年都要接待好幾批。土庫(kù)修復(fù)后，他就給趕來(lái)考察的中國(guó)考古學(xué)會(huì)副理事長(zhǎng)、國(guó)家文物局專家組成員、故宮博物院原院長(zhǎng)張忠培做講解介紹，張忠培贊嘆：土庫(kù)是國(guó)寶，是聚財(cái)之地，是中國(guó)唯一幸存的貿(mào)易站歷史見(jiàn)證物，在國(guó)家文物保護(hù)單位名錄中，尚無(wú)此類型列存，今天尚能發(fā)現(xiàn)真是難得，文物價(jià)值十分珍貴。

近些年，傅繼泉明顯感覺(jué)到參觀土庫(kù)的人數(shù)不斷增多。他興奮地告訴筆者，這證明散落鄉(xiāng)野田間的文物受到越來(lái)越多的關(guān)注與重視；這說(shuō)明海上絲路的文明有更大的展衍。同時(shí)，令他欣慰的是，土庫(kù)修復(fù)前，當(dāng)?shù)卦S多村民對(duì)之一無(wú)所知，現(xiàn)在村里的垂髫小兒也能或多或少說(shuō)出土庫(kù)的一些情況。

One day in early autumn， I visited the site of a trade warehouse built in the Ming Dynasty （1368-1644） when Chinese smugglers did business with traders from Holland. The trade warehouse is more than 400 years old and is located in Yongfeng Village， White Horse Town in Pujiang County. The village is not far from my home village. I remember the anecdotes told by old people about the trade warehouse when I was a kid.

Fu Jiquan and his wife took me around the spacious compound. The first question I put to Fu Jiquan was， why Dutch traders built warehouses in China？ His answer was interesting. A committee of history and culture in White Horse Town had done some research. Through textual research， local historians found that in 1567 the government of the Ming Dynasty adjusted its international trade policy and allowed private businesspeople to do business with Japan and Europe. However， the government tightened the trade again but smugglers continued to trade with Holland and the Dutch traders built nine warehouses in Zhejiang， Fujian and Guangdong provinces. The trade warehouse in Pujiang is the only one existing now. The other eight are long gone.

The warehouse in White Horse Town was a secret hoarding place. Situated in a remote area where Pujiang， Zhuji and Yiwu counties met. Nearby was a small port， from which ships could reach Hangzhou Bay and beyond. After looking around， Dong Hua， a businessman from Lanxi， suggested to a Dutch trader to have a warehouse built in the remote village far away from the local government office. The warehouse served as a key link for smugglers who ran the trade route from the western and central Zhejiang to the maritime Silk Road that connected China to the outside world.

During the 61-year reign of Emperor Kangxi （1654-1722） of the Qing （1644-1911）， a total ban on international trade was imposed and the Dutch traders pulled out of China. The secret trade warehouse served as a cargo yard long after the Dutch traders left. In the 1970s， the village population exploded and new houses were constructed around the warehouse. The large compound had become so dilapidated in the early years of the 21st century that about 20 families living there had to get out.

Fu Jiquan， a villager who dedicated himself to the preservation of the warehouse， knew he must do something about the ancient trade warehouse. He compiled information on the warehouse and canvassed the local government. In 2006， the local government allotted 800，000 to repair the warehouse. A construction team from Dongyang came over， headed by Wu Chuwei， a master of art and craft. They spent five months repairing the warehouse. Fu Jiquan and his wife Chen Xiaoxiang volunteered and did chores at their own expenses. After the project， Fu appointed himself housekeeper to take daily care of the cultural relic.

As a matter of fact， the coupled had concerned themselves with the warehouse toward the end of the 1990s. They have never asked for a penny from the village.

The 776-square-meter warehouse is worth protection not simply because it is a historical site. It offers more than its historical importance. The large compound was designed by a Dutch trader. The layout of the compound looks like a Chinese character品， one large courtyard with two smaller ones. The compound is in three parts and two rows. Fu is deeply impressed by the drainage system which functions separately in three courtyards. The warehouse has never been flooded. In 1988， the village was flooded but the warehouse withstood the flood. The warehouse was designed to be a stronghold for storing goods， cash and weapons. The large compound has only one window in one room in the front row where people inside can look out. The window is protected with a steel fence.

The fa?ade presents two gates decorated with lotus flowers， treasure bottles and silver ingots in the shape of horseshoe. The compound presents 22 horse-head walls in the shape of butterflies. In front of the warehouse there used to be a large village square connected with farmlands on four sides. Now the square is paved with stone slabs， a project done in 2015 and funded by the local government. From the square one used to see the Puyang River. It was then that Fu had set up his home near the warehouse.

The warehouse has attracted the attention of the national authorities on cultural relics. Zhang Zhongpei， former president of the Palace Museum in Beijing， has visited the warehouse. Zhang wowed at the luck that this warehouse has survived. It is one of a kind in China and the national catalogue doesnt have a classification for this warehouse.

Nowadays， the warehouse attracts more and more tourists. Before the warehouse was restored， only some people in the village knew anything about the genesis and the history of the warehouse. Now， even kids know something about it.