● 陸 芳

《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》《昨日青空》……它們都選擇在此取景

這里在很大程度上保留了上世紀(jì)八九十年代中國工業(yè)城市的面貌，加上蘭溪本身深厚的歷史文化底蘊(yùn)和山清水秀的自然環(huán)境，非常適合現(xiàn)在熱門的年代電影拍攝。

充滿年代感的蘭溪小鎮(zhèn)。This is a part of the old downtown of Lanxi.

“涼月如眉掛柳灣，越中山色鏡中看。蘭溪三日桃花雨，半夜鯉魚來上灘?！碧拼娙舜魇鍌惖倪@首詩歌，將蘭溪的魅力表現(xiàn)得恰到好處。

蘭溪建縣于大唐盛世，距今1340年，那是詩歌的王朝。蘭溪自然風(fēng)光美麗，處處流淌詩情畫意，所以歷代文人騷客題詠甚多，留下了不少經(jīng)典篇章。

相對于文字，如今這座浙中小城留給世人的是更具象的畫面。從2018年上映的動(dòng)畫電影《昨日青空》，到2019年夏天熱映的《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》，多部電影在此取景拍攝，蘭溪因此成為文藝青年們的熱門“打卡地”。

坐著少見的綠皮火車去蘭溪

《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》導(dǎo)演鄧超和俞白眉曾說：“《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》的概念設(shè)計(jì)師郝藝從兩千多個(gè)城市中選中蘭溪，是因?yàn)檫@里自然風(fēng)貌十分優(yōu)美，完好地保存了城市的韻味。這里深厚的人文環(huán)境還原了影片中的年代感，劇組所有人來到蘭溪都覺得‘就是這里’?！?/p>

筆者來到蘭溪作了一次實(shí)地探訪，發(fā)現(xiàn)由于各種原因，這里在很大程度上保留了上世紀(jì)八九十年代中國工業(yè)城市的面貌，加上蘭溪本身深厚的歷史文化底蘊(yùn)，和山清水秀的自然環(huán)境，非常適合現(xiàn)在熱門的年代電影拍攝。

《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》海報(bào)A poster for Looking Up, a national blockbuster filmed in Lanxi and screened across the country in the summer of 2019

蘭溪位于浙江中部的金華市，素稱“三江交匯”“六水之腰”“七省通衢”，有“中國蘭花之鄉(xiāng)”之譽(yù)。不過要從杭州到蘭溪，一天只有一趟綠皮火車。

對于很多人而言，綠皮火車的記憶應(yīng)該停留在上世紀(jì)八九十年代。在高鐵發(fā)展迅速的現(xiàn)在，已很少能看見綠皮火車了。從杭州蘭溪，一天只有一趟火車T7785，16:08-18:50，2小時(shí)42分鐘。蘭溪回杭州也只有一趟火車T7786，7:08-9:51，2小時(shí)43分鐘。這兩趟都是綠皮火車。

更讓人意外的是，蘭溪火車站一天也只有這兩趟火車。

蘭溪火車站就在市中心，保留了上世紀(jì)七八十年代的火車站建筑風(fēng)格。

候車室不大，但干凈雅致，候車室的頂上還有一排排吊扇。墻上一側(cè)是“黃山奇觀”的瓷磚畫，另一側(cè)的墻上是“嚴(yán)禁夾帶危險(xiǎn)品上車”瓷磚宣傳畫，落款是1990年。

走進(jìn)站臺，邊上種植多年的雪松很高大。站臺也是白配綠的復(fù)古顏色，綠皮火車外面貼著“杭州到蘭溪”的“特快”車次牌，車廂里，黃色座椅套配黃色窗簾。

1932年，蘭溪站建成。2009年，蘭溪至千島湖段終止了客運(yùn)業(yè)務(wù)，蘭溪站成為金千鐵路上唯一的對外營運(yùn)窗口。但到了2016年，蘭溪站僅辦理蘭溪至杭州的始發(fā)終到業(yè)務(wù)，也就是一天兩趟“綠皮”。

一位蘭溪市民說，蘭溪火車站在上世紀(jì)八九十年代還是很熱鬧的，那時(shí)，終點(diǎn)站是千島湖，但后來因?yàn)楦哞F興起，蘭溪站開始沉寂?，F(xiàn)在蘭溪年輕人出行，要么選擇長途大巴，要么坐高鐵到金華，再打車到蘭溪。

沒有高鐵，讓蘭溪人出行略有不便，但這個(gè)很有年代感的“蘭溪站”，對于踏破鐵鞋無覓處的電影選景人來說，則如獲至寶。因?yàn)橄襁@樣有綠皮火車的南方小站，放眼全國也找不出幾個(gè)。

《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》里，父子兩人出去旅游，有不少蘭溪火車站和綠皮火車的鏡頭。

《昨日青空》的動(dòng)漫原作者口袋巧克力是蘭溪人，他筆下的蘭溪火車站更是充滿江南清新氣息。蘭溪火車站、鐵路涵洞等也已成為《昨日青空》粉絲的“打卡地”之一。

這兩趟“綠皮”現(xiàn)在也成了網(wǎng)紅，幾乎都是滿座，吸引了不少年輕的游客享受一下慢生活。

老廠區(qū)和大煙囪

熟悉浙江歷史的人都知道，蘭溪工業(yè)曾是引領(lǐng)浙江的一面旗。

1960年，新中國自行設(shè)計(jì)的第一座大型水力發(fā)電站——新安江水電站建成營運(yùn)。作為新安江水電站的配套，華鋁前身——蘭江冶煉廠落戶蘭溪。后來，電纜廠、塑料廠、化工廠、農(nóng)藥廠、機(jī)床廠、汽配廠、棉紡廠等紛紛建成。

計(jì)劃經(jīng)濟(jì)時(shí)代，蘭溪有著一個(gè)工業(yè)城市的耀眼榮光。對浙江人甚至中國人，“蘭江味精”“云山金筆”“鳳凰肥皂”“凱旋燃具”都是知名品牌，而這些都是蘭溪生產(chǎn)的。

但到了上世紀(jì)末，隨著市場經(jīng)濟(jì)蓬勃發(fā)展，蘭溪的老牌國有企業(yè)開始跟不上時(shí)代的步伐。近年，有一些原本在蘭溪市區(qū)及市郊的工廠遷出，留下了大量閑置老廠房。這些老廠房在很多電影劇組眼里，可是個(gè)寶。

《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》有很多宇航員在基地的戲，甚至在太空艙里的戲，都是在蘭溪“老鋁廠”的廠房里搭景拍的。

筆者來到位于蘭溪城郊西路的華鋁老廠區(qū)，也就是蘭溪人口中的“老鋁廠”。

對蘭溪人來說，“老鋁廠”便是當(dāng)?shù)氐摹昂间摗薄尼t(yī)院到學(xué)校、菜場，像一個(gè)小鎮(zhèn)，最多的時(shí)候，員工有6800多人。不過，現(xiàn)在工廠已搬遷，除了門衛(wèi)和零散的人員進(jìn)出，只剩下巨大的空廠房和高高的大煙囪。

《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》劇照。A scene of Looking Up, a blockbuster hit filmed in Lanxi and screened across the country in the summer of 2019

2018年陪同《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》看景的蘭溪當(dāng)?shù)毓ぷ魅藛T說，劇組要求的廠房要高而大，因?yàn)橐詈娇栈氐木?。而最終拍攝的那個(gè)廠房讓劇組十分滿意，大嘆“這估計(jì)是全國最大的攝影棚”。

筆者去了當(dāng)時(shí)拍攝的大廠房。這個(gè)廠房只能用“巨大”兩個(gè)字來形容，從頭走到尾得花上10分鐘。仔細(xì)觀察，發(fā)現(xiàn)廠房里還有一條鐵軌。原來鋁廠規(guī)模最大的時(shí)候，這里有一條專門的鐵路，用來運(yùn)輸鋁冶煉的原材料氧化鋁。廠房棚頂?shù)脑O(shè)計(jì)也很有工業(yè)風(fēng)格，別有一番特色。

廠房里還有《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》搭的幾個(gè)室內(nèi)置景。一個(gè)里面還留著“曙光十六號載人飛行任務(wù)航天員出征儀式”條幅，原來航空基地的戲就是在這里拍的。另一個(gè)是鄧超扮演的父親跟兒子居住的陋室的內(nèi)景。此外，廠房里還留著幾個(gè)“太空艙”的部件，以及“火箭運(yùn)行信息”的示意圖。

走出廠房，廠區(qū)外面是老工業(yè)區(qū)的特色風(fēng)景，最矚目的就是高大的煙囪。在《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》里，有一個(gè)重要的情節(jié)是，鄧超扮演的父親出獄后被人羞辱，且經(jīng)濟(jì)囧迫。讓他重拾信心并賺到第一筆錢的工作，就是作為一個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)師，解決一個(gè)要爆破的大煙囪找不到爆破點(diǎn)的難題。如今那個(gè)大煙囪上還留著當(dāng)時(shí)鄧超爬過的木梯子。

除了鋁廠，蘭溪市區(qū)也保留了不少上世紀(jì)八九十年代的老廠區(qū)建筑。大名鼎鼎的“蘭溪味精廠”和“蘭棉”連在一起，“蘭棉”也是計(jì)劃經(jīng)濟(jì)時(shí)代的大廠，曾輝煌一時(shí)，2009年搬出市區(qū)。

小而精的蘭溪古城

蘭溪的蘭江匯聚三江之水，水運(yùn)曾十分發(fā)達(dá)，故有“千年商埠”之稱。

現(xiàn)在蘭溪市區(qū)延安路以南的民居群落內(nèi)，有“探花”“忠錫”等多條小巷，完整保存著明清街巷的風(fēng)貌。

蘭溪古城2000年就被評為省級歷史文化名城，其深厚的歷史積淀，是不少電影選擇在蘭溪拍攝的原因之一。

在《昨日青空》中，不少情節(jié)都發(fā)生在蘭溪的城南古巷。這些古巷讓這部電影散發(fā)出濃郁的江南文化韻味。

在一幢幢高大的古民居之間，古巷顯得非常狹小而悠長，估計(jì)只有一人能通行。兩幢民居間有拱形的墻連接。走在青石板上，抬頭看見白墻黑瓦間的一線藍(lán)天，頓覺是一幅構(gòu)圖優(yōu)美的風(fēng)景。

距離城南古巷不遠(yuǎn)處，就是蘭溪古城的標(biāo)志性建筑西門城樓和城墻，沿江的600米城墻為明正德七年（1512年）重建。城樓十分威嚴(yán)，登上城樓即可俯瞰蘭江。沿江依舊有不少碼頭，遠(yuǎn)處可見船舶往來。

電影《昨日青空》一開篇，就是西門城樓的剪影和它身邊緩緩流過的蘭江。片中男主角經(jīng)常和同學(xué)們靠著護(hù)欄眺望蘭江，聊天嬉鬧。

蘭溪古城保留了相對完好的唐宋古縣城肌理和200多幢老房子。對于電影拍攝來說，可謂大大地豐富了視覺元素，增加了文化內(nèi)涵。

■助讀

《銀河補(bǔ)習(xí)班》

由鄧超、俞白眉聯(lián)合執(zhí)導(dǎo)，鄧超領(lǐng)銜主演。這是關(guān)于一對父子跨越時(shí)光守護(hù)愛和親情的故事——20世紀(jì)八九十年代，在浩瀚太空，航天員意外失聯(lián)，生命最大的絕境中，他回憶起自己那個(gè)最了不起的爸爸。

《昨日青空》

改編自口袋巧克力創(chuàng)作的同名漫畫作品。講述了20世紀(jì)90年代末，一個(gè)平凡、寧靜的南方小縣城里，幾位高三學(xué)生在面對如山的學(xué)業(yè)壓力間隙中，萌生的夢想、友誼和初戀，以及他們和大人世界的那道鴻溝。

（本文圖片提供：CFP）

Lanxi Shines in Latest Films

By Lu Fang

蘭溪三中（《昨日青空》版和現(xiàn)實(shí)版對比）。This poster for Crystal Sky of Yesterday features great similarities between Lanxi No. 3 Middle School in Lanxi in the real world and its counterpart in the cinematic world.

蘭溪浮橋（《昨日青空》版和現(xiàn)實(shí)版對比）。This poster for Crystal Sky of Yesterday presents a pontoon bridge in Lanxi in the real world and in a cinematic world.

Looking Up which debuted on July 18, 2019 and Crystal Sky of Yesterday which was nationwide screened in the summer of 2018 are two films that were set in Lanxi, a city in central Zhejiang.Some people are curious enough to wonder what Lanxi offers to fascinate the directors.

Deng Chao, lead man and director of Looking Up, reveals that Lanxi was picked out of over 2,000 candidate sites from all over China partly because the natural beauty of the city is well maintained and partly because the small-sized city maintains a precious part of the industrial past. That is, the city partially and stubbornly retains the traces of the yesteryears even though most cities are various stereotyped editions of sweeping urbanized modernity. For various reasons, the city has kept a look of the 1980s and the 1990s,making it the best choice for the films set in that period of time.

Lanxi, or Orchid Creek literarily, used to be a boom town. The Xi'an River Hydraulic Power Station, built in the late 1950s and began to operate in 1960, turned the small city into an industrial powerhouse thanks to the cheap electricity from the power station.Factories mushroomed, bringing a prosperity unseen in history to the city. However, the industry boom in Lanxi did not last. The city soon went out of fashion as China opened its door to the outside world and went all out for modernization. In thy 1980s and the 1990s, factories began to go under, leaving a large number of industrial spaces empty and idle, ideal for shooting films that portray the past of the 1980s and the 1990s. In particular, the cavernous workshops of the aluminum factory are ideal for some locations. The tall chimneys of the factory still tower to signify the industrial dream and glory of the past.

蘭溪風(fēng)光。 An ancient village in Lanxi

Today, however, high-speed trains bypass Lanxi although the city has expanded far and wide beyond the old downtown and every inch of the new urban center looks modern. Many local residents opt to go to nearby Jinhua, the central city in central Zhejiang, to take a high-speed train to go everywhere. The city operates a slow-speed train painted in green to Hangzhou once a day. The old railway station retains an ethos of the bygone decades for many local residents.Pocket Chocolate, the author of Crystal Sky of Yesterday and a native of Lanxi, highlights the railway station in his original picture book published in 2014. The film adaptation features the station in the setting. Rare is such a railway station still operating in this part of China. Today, the railway station and a nearby tunnel are places that attract young visitors from all over China. Some visitors just want to take a short ride in such a slow-speed train to go back to yesteryears.The railway station plays a significant part in Looking Up, too.

蘭溪火車站（《昨日青空》版和現(xiàn)實(shí)版對比）。This poster for Crystal Sky of Yesterday features a railway station in the cinematic world, patterned after the railway station well preserved in Lanxi in the real world.

Lanxi retains more than some old factories and a trace of the outmoded heavy industry powered by the nearby power station. In history, the riverside city fl ourished for about 1,000 years as a trade center in this part of the province. In the old downtown in the south of the city are some well preserved street blocks in the architectural style of the Ming (1368-1644) and the Qing (1644-1911) dynasties.There are about 200 time-old houses crisscrossed by a network of narrow lanes and streets. Some lanes are so narrow that two can't walk through side by side. Not far from the old downtown zone stand the West City Gate and a 600-meter-long section of the city wall, which was last refurbished in 1512. The gate and the wall section and the old downtown combine to enable people to imagine what a county capital looked like 1,000 years ago. This part of Lanxi provides a fine background for historical fl ashbacks in the afore-mentioned films.

The filming of Looking Up in Lanxi has made Rongrong Beef Noodle famous as Deng Chao, one of the best known film artists in China, dined out there more than 20 times. It is a husband-wife operation. The wife remembers exactly what Deng Chao ordered. The photos taken during his visits to the noodle shop are on the walls to brag and satisfy the curiosity of fans. The wife says that the publicity boosts the noodle business. Before, the shop sold about 100 bowls of noodle a day. Now, it is about 200 bowls. Some visitors even come all the way from beyond Lanxi to taste the beef noodle favored by the film star. Though it is just one of the 300 beef noodle operations in the city, Rongrong enjoys a brisk business largely thanks to Deng Chao, who directed the film in Lanxi.