在里斯本，排隊(duì)搶蛋撻

● 喻鴻昊

追逐陽(yáng)光，從瑞典到葡萄牙

葡萄牙的點(diǎn)心很有名，特別是享有盛譽(yù)的蛋撻。記得上次來(lái)里斯本時(shí)，在位于市中心的Pastéis de Belém烘焙店，吃到了可以說(shuō)是人生中最好吃的點(diǎn)心——葡式蛋撻。這次在朋友的推薦下,我們?nèi)チ艘患覔?jù)說(shuō)更好的烘焙店，門(mén)前長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的隊(duì)伍，無(wú)聲地印證著它的名望。

里斯本市區(qū)的老式有軌電車(chē)。An old-styled tram in downtown Lisbon

來(lái)瑞典之前，我一直不明白為什么瑞典人一到天晴就出門(mén)曬太陽(yáng)，融入之后才知，是由于瑞典常年多陰雨，又靠近北極，冬天夜長(zhǎng)，這才使得人們更渴望通過(guò)陽(yáng)光來(lái)幫助舒緩一下抑郁之情，更多地補(bǔ)鈣強(qiáng)體。

所以，每當(dāng)節(jié)假日，瑞典人都會(huì)如潮水般去往南歐國(guó)家，來(lái)一場(chǎng)歐洲版“夸父追日”。而在我所知的南歐國(guó)家中，日照最充足的當(dāng)屬葡萄牙。葡國(guó)一年365天中就有超過(guò)300多天陽(yáng)光燦爛。今年有次小長(zhǎng)假，我和女友丹雅就特意安排前往葡萄牙里斯本，去擁抱陽(yáng)光，開(kāi)啟一周的“陽(yáng)光旅行”。

（一）

里斯本市中心的人行道多以磚石鋪就。幾百年的時(shí)光，人們的腳步已將過(guò)去的粗糙磨得光滑，將以往的“生硬”變成和諧。眼中的街道顯得十分寬敞，兩邊高大的梧桐，像威武的戰(zhàn)士站立在街道兩旁，既裝扮了景色，愉悅了視野，又為行人遮陽(yáng)避暑。

走著走著，我們便看到了作為里斯本標(biāo)志物之一的有軌電車(chē)。在有著悠久歷史的歐洲，意大利的米蘭、匈牙利的布達(dá)佩斯和葡萄牙的里斯本這三座城市，至今仍擁有并運(yùn)營(yíng)著古老的黃色有軌電車(chē)。這種歐洲最古老的有軌電車(chē)，距今已有近150年，在給里斯本這座城市增加歷史厚重感的同時(shí)，也增添了一絲西洋的浪漫。

遠(yuǎn)望辛德拉佩納宮。A distant view of the Palacio Nacional da Pena, located in Sintra

丹雅迫不及待地拉上我，一同體驗(yàn)這別致的“厚重”的浪漫。有軌電車(chē)像位老人，慢悠悠地爬到坡頂?shù)腗iradouro de S?o Pedro de Alcantara。電車(chē)發(fā)出的吱吱聲和街道兩旁墻壁上街頭藝人涂鴉的壁畫(huà)，這種古老與現(xiàn)代的碰撞，真的是一種很難用語(yǔ)言來(lái)描述的“陶醉”。

隨著電車(chē)一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)爬高，遠(yuǎn)處的風(fēng)景也漸漸顯露了出來(lái)。車(chē)到坡頂，視野豁然開(kāi)朗。下了車(chē)，再往上攀走約兩百米，我們站上了觀(guān)景臺(tái)。春風(fēng)拂面，登高望遠(yuǎn)，放眼四周，里斯本大部分的老城區(qū)盡收眼底。橙紅色的屋頂，白色的墻面，高大的樹(shù)木，愛(ài)美的人們?cè)诖芭_(tái)和院落里種的小花，交相輝映，依山就勢(shì)鋪陳開(kāi)來(lái)，直至遠(yuǎn)處的大西洋。這真是一幅絢麗奪目的風(fēng)景畫(huà)。

一路爬坡，我們來(lái)到了位于市中心的圣喬治城堡。由于歷史的緣故，歐洲許多城市都建有城堡，且都建在高地或山坡上。這座城堡規(guī)模不大，但地理位置極佳。在城堡上，人們可以俯瞰到城景和寬闊的特茹河，不僅能觀(guān)察到霍塔河對(duì)岸山頂?shù)氖ハ?，還能看到橫跨霍塔河的標(biāo)志性建筑物“4月25日大橋”。

大多數(shù)人來(lái)到里斯本后，還會(huì)乘坐火車(chē)或的士前往離市中心約30分鐘車(chē)程的辛德拉市一探佩納宮。

佩納宮極具浪漫主義色彩。這座于19世紀(jì)興建的王室行宮，由各種不同風(fēng)格、不同色彩的建筑組合而成，其大膽的配色，在整個(gè)歐洲城堡中都不多見(jiàn)。城堡主要采用了亮黃、橙紅、藍(lán)色及乳白四種顏色，宮殿也兼具哥特式、摩爾式及文藝復(fù)興式等不同風(fēng)格。兼收并蓄的和諧之美，不是更印證了多文化交融的魅力嗎？

（二）

來(lái)到里斯本，就必須到坊間作一番深度“考察”。

氣流內(nèi)循環(huán)萃取法在水中石油類(lèi)測(cè)定中的應(yīng)用……………………………………侯保兵，張 川，侯文晶，等（2.75）

整潔干凈的小街小巷，就像上海的石庫(kù)門(mén)和弄堂，生活氣息極濃。窗臺(tái)上擺滿(mǎn)鮮花，穿著背心悠閑而懶慵的人們，或隨性或?qū)Ｗ⒌卮蛄恐鴣?lái)往的行人。一只灰白色的小貓瞇縫著眼睛，在墻角悠然地享受陽(yáng)光，路人經(jīng)過(guò)時(shí)，毫不懼怕，還舒適地伸著懶腰。散落街旁的各式小館子，讓空氣中充滿(mǎn)了陣陣誘人的香氣。

但最吸引我目光的，還是每棟房屋墻壁上那五彩斑斕的瓷磚。每一塊瓷磚都有其獨(dú)特的紋理和顏色，而不同的紋理和顏色，無(wú)序地鋪陳在每面墻上，卻顯得如此協(xié)調(diào)。這使我想起2019年在中國(guó)召開(kāi)的亞洲文明對(duì)話(huà)大會(huì)。文明，不會(huì)、不能也不該有沖突，在交流中豐富、在豐富中和諧。這或許也是多彩的“瓷磚之國(guó)”對(duì)人類(lèi)文明的啟示。

葡萄牙的點(diǎn)心很有名，特別是享有盛譽(yù)的蛋撻。記得上次來(lái)里斯本時(shí)，在位于市中心的Past é is de Bel é m烘焙店，吃到了可以說(shuō)是人生中最好吃的點(diǎn)心——葡式蛋撻。這次在朋友的推薦下，我們?nèi)チ艘患覔?jù)說(shuō)更好的烘焙店，名叫Manteigaria。門(mén)前長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的隊(duì)伍，無(wú)聲地印證著它的名望。

我透過(guò)密匝的人流，踮腳探頭，向內(nèi)張望，想盡早一睹“芳容”。長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的隊(duì)伍在有序地向前推進(jìn)，熟練的店員讓速度推進(jìn)得令人滿(mǎn)意。輪到我們點(diǎn)餐時(shí)，一位戴著工作帽、扎著圍裙的高挑美女，音起手落，按要求麻利地夾出了兩個(gè)蛋撻，手指輕點(diǎn)，咖啡機(jī)迅即轉(zhuǎn)動(dòng)。在等待咖啡的間隙，她迅速收好了餐款，一個(gè)華麗的轉(zhuǎn)身，熱乎乎的咖啡和熱騰騰的蛋撻就一并交到了我們手中。

綠蔭蔥蔥的街道。A boulevard lined by thick shade trees in Lisbon

市中心小巷中的瓷磚。A house facade paved with tiles in a lane in downtown Lisbon

端著色澤誘人的蛋撻和香濃的咖啡，我們慢慢往屋里移動(dòng)，這才發(fā)現(xiàn)，大多數(shù)人都是站著的，根本沒(méi)有座位。我們好不容易在角落處找到一個(gè)可以容得下兩人的空位，學(xué)著當(dāng)?shù)厝嗽诘皳樯先錾仙僭S肉桂粉，開(kāi)始大快朵頤。一口下去，先是感受到脆脆的酥皮，緊接著就是那鮮嫩爽滑的餡心，濃濃的奶香加上雞蛋的香味，瞬間，美美的幸福感充斥于唇齒之間。三下五除二后的回味間，雖感略甜，也算上品，但我仍難忘之前去過(guò)的Pas té is de Be él m店的口感，也許這是我的戀舊情結(jié)吧。

陽(yáng)光讓人亮堂，和諧方致多彩。美麗的里斯本讓我難忘。我還會(huì)再來(lái)的！

A Journey of Sunshine in Lisbon

By Yu Honghao

I had long been wondering what was behind the fascination of Swedes about“going out for a bit of sunshine” until I had a chance to spend several years under the overcast and rainy sky of this Scandinavian country that is snow-clad for five months in a year. Sunlight, for Swedes, is an antidote to depression.

My girlfriend and I went to Lisbon earlier this year for our vacation. We enjoyed every minute of our stay there, and came to understand the meaning of embracing the sun.

It was our revisit to Portugal four years after we spent a happy Christmas there.A leisurely walk on the city's undulating streets and in one of the winding alleys refreshed my memory of our winter trip four years ago. Although many details have become hazy, nothing seemed to have changed. The only difference was that, this time we were welcomed by the cascading sun of spring. Perched on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, Lisbon is one of the rare Western European cities that faces the ocean and uses water as an element that defines the city.

The city stretches along the northern bank of the river Tejo as it flows into the Atlantic Ocean. As the terrain rises north away from the water, steep streets and stairways either form the old tangled districts or give way to green parks in the western suburbs. The sidewalks that have been trodden on for hundreds of years add to the soothing harmony of the city life. Lisbon's“Main Street”, Avenida da Liberdade, is a broad boulevard resplendent in leafy trees,chic hotels and upmarket shops.

Lisbon is served by an extensive bus and tram network. The city is one of the three European cities (the other two being Milan and Budapest) that still have Europe's oldest tram system in operation. Tram (or“Eléctrico” in the Portuguese) Line 28 is one of only three traditional tram lines that still operate in Lisbon. The iconic, yellow-colored Tram 28 winds its way, like an old man who has seen the world, through the “Old Town” of Lisbon beginning in Gra?a all the way up to Miradouro de S?o Pedro de Alcantara, taking you by many of Lisbon's most famous and interesting sites including monuments, churches and gardens. The thrill brought by such fusion of antiquity and modernity was beyond description. The trip is hilly, noisy and hectic but it affords many beautiful glimpses of the city.

A bird's eye view from the observatory presents the city's unique architecture and fl oral vista blending well into the Atlantic Ocean to the fullest. It is an ideal place to relish the enchanting cityscape characteristic of white-bleached limestone buildings,intimate alleyways, and an easy-going charm that makes the city a popular yearround destination.

Located up the hill, Castelo de S?o Jorge(St. George's Castle) has a great view over the city and the river Tejo. If you have the energy, get there by walking from downtown, going through the fantastic old neighborhood of Alfama.

Ponte 25 de Abril, the sister bridge of the San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge, was designed by the same architect in 1966 to connect Lisbon with the Setubal peninsula across the Tagus (Tejo) River. Formerly known as the Salazar Bridge, it was renamed after the Carnation Revolution, which on April 25, 1974 ended the dictatorship.

The Palacio Nacional da Pena, located in Sintra (about half an hour's drive from the city center), is one of the finest tourist attractions in Portugal and exempli fies the 19th century Romanticism style of architecture. The palace is a hedonistic mix of vividly painted terraces, decorative battlements and mythological statues, all of which stand at stark contrast to the lush greens of the Parque de Pena forest. The interior of the Pena Palace is equally as fascinating, being restored to refl ect the decor in 1910, when the Portuguese nobility fled to Brazil to escape the revolution. Surrounding the Palacio da Pena are forested grounds,which continue the design ideals of Romanticism, with hidden pathways, mystical ornaments and stunning vistas.

Portuguese dining rituals tend to follow the Mediterranean siesta body clock, meaning that you have to slow down

and put your mobile phone away to truly enjoy the “slow life” of Lisbon. A whole afternoon can be whiled away surveying the magnificent colors of the ceramic walls that make every building a piece of art.

Rossio is the main square in Lisbon, the equivalent of London's Trafalgar Square,which is a common meeting place for locals.This is a must visit for all visitors to Lisbon to experience city life. The trendy district of Principe Real with all the fancy shops is just a 5-minute walk from Bairro Alto.

Take a stroll along the historical streets of the elegant shopping district of Chiado,stopping for a cup of coffee with the statue of Fernando Pessoa, Portugal's great Modernist poet. Head uphill to Bairro Alto, for stunning views of the city and some wild partying in Lisbon's most popular nightclub district.

烘焙店的咖啡與著名的葡式蛋撻。A cup of coffee and the magnificent pastéis de nata

從圣喬治城堡遠(yuǎn)眺基督像和4月25日大橋。A panorama of Lisbon, with Ponte 25 de Abril on the Tagus River in the distant background

Completely rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake by the Marquês de Pombal, Baixa in downtown Lisbon has a planned layout that is greatly different from the more ancient neighborhoods, and is a testimony to the ideas of the Enlightenment.

Alfama still bears signs of the Moorish presence in the city, with the buildings very close to each other, and very irregular streets. This very atmospheric neighborhood is a great spot in which to wander around.

Try the magnificent pastéis de nata at any pastelaria; or better yet, visit the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém (Casa Pasteis De Belem). They are served right out of the oven there, with the side of confectioner's sugar and cinnamon; as you navigate through the azulejo-decorated labyrinthine passages of the expansive shop, stop to look at the workers behind glass panels turning the endless stream of these delicacies, just baked, each in its own little ramekin, over onto the waiting trays. These are absolutely a must eat and you can't possibly regret it.It's good to accompany your treat with a cup of coffee. For a taste of the cafe culture of Lisbon that is also a mainstay of Portugal, you can't go wrong by trying one of these coffee shops scattered abundantly through the city's quirky narrow streets.