鮮肉榨菜月餅，杭州人的中秋恩寵

● 宋 赟 錢卓君

自古以來，中秋節(jié)除了賞月、祭月、吟詩作詞，吃月餅也是一件儀式感滿滿的活動(dòng)?！段骱斡[志余》中說：“八月十五謂中秋，民間以月餅相送，取團(tuán)圓之意?！比缃?，月餅的內(nèi)涵豐富了，已不單單是一種食品，而是一種“中秋文化”的象征。吃月餅，實(shí)際吃的是一種文化、一種氣氛、一種情感。

俗話說：“八月十五月正圓，中秋月餅甜又香?！痹嘛炞钤缰皇且环N餅形食物，后來，人們逐漸把中秋賞月與品嘗月餅結(jié)合在一起，寓意家人團(tuán)圓。

這些年，月餅的花樣越來越多，比如小龍蝦月餅、三文魚月餅，還有各種口味的流心月餅、桃山皮月餅、冰皮月餅、冰淇淋月餅、鮮果月餅……不過在杭州，不管什么月餅，都無法撼動(dòng)鮮肉榨菜月餅的地位。

為月餅排隊(duì)只因迷戀“現(xiàn)吃現(xiàn)做”

很多杭州人吃月餅只認(rèn)鮮肉榨菜的，其他的一律不買賬。記得小時(shí)候，浙二醫(yī)院對(duì)面的老大房，每到中秋前夕都要排長隊(duì)，現(xiàn)烤現(xiàn)賣的鮮肉榨菜月餅，還沒出爐就香氣四溢，讓人饞涎欲滴。

杭州最早賣榨菜鮮肉月餅的，據(jù)說是西湖邊的采芝齋。上世紀(jì)80年代初，鮮肉榨菜月餅只賣8分錢一個(gè)，后來慢慢漲到6角錢，現(xiàn)在又漲到了3塊錢。但到了吃榨菜月餅的季節(jié)，很多杭州人首先想到的還是他家。

在這個(gè)顏值當(dāng)?shù)赖臅r(shí)代，為什么其貌不揚(yáng)的鮮肉榨菜月餅，能獨(dú)得杭州人的恩寵？

據(jù)說，杭州的鮮肉榨菜月餅和康熙皇帝還有關(guān)系。當(dāng)年康熙來杭州，一個(gè)糕點(diǎn)師傅給他做了鮮肉榨菜月餅，受到稱贊。從此，鮮肉榨菜月餅開始盛行，一直到現(xiàn)在，成為杭州人老底子里的記憶。

還有一種說法，鮮肉榨菜月餅其實(shí)是蘇式鮮肉月餅的改良版，杭州人往里頭加了榨菜，就成了現(xiàn)在的樣子。

脆脆的酥皮是一絕。The crisp pastry skin is a key feature of Zhacai and pork in a moon cake made in Hangzhou.

鮮肉榨菜月餅最大的特點(diǎn)是咸的，吃起來不會(huì)膩，而且剛出爐時(shí)香味特別誘人。筆者吃過肯德基的鮮肉月餅，還有“全家”今年新出的蛋黃鮮肉月餅……但吃來吃去，還是覺得鮮肉跟榨菜最配。

中外師生一起制作月餅。 陳曉彬 葉曉東 攝Some foreign teachers and Chinese teachers and students make moon cakes together in Wenzhou.

外國朋友制作月餅。 郭斌 汪李娜 攝Some international friends make moon cakes in a bid to learn about Chinese Moon Festival.

大家排隊(duì)買月餅。People buy moon cakes at Cai Zhi Zhai, one of the best moon cake shops in Hangzhou.

各種制作花色月餅的模具。 （CFP供圖）Here are some tools for making moon cakes.

說起好吃的鮮肉榨菜月餅，很多人會(huì)想到杭州老牌的甜品店，開業(yè)15年的“九月生活”。

原本九月生活只在每年中秋節(jié)前賣鮮肉榨菜月餅，現(xiàn)在，他們?cè)诤贾菝總€(gè)區(qū)域都保留兩三家店，基本上全年供應(yīng)（除了春節(jié)和6月、7月兩個(gè)月）。

負(fù)責(zé)營運(yùn)的胡經(jīng)理告訴筆者，平時(shí)過來買鮮肉榨菜月餅是不用排隊(duì)的。中秋節(jié)前半個(gè)月左右，各家門店就開始排隊(duì)了。他們家的鮮肉榨菜月餅，由工廠配送半成品到門店，然后由門店自行烘制。制作一箱月餅耗時(shí)23分鐘，對(duì)于這款月餅，杭州人特別迷戀“現(xiàn)做現(xiàn)吃”的口感，所以導(dǎo)致隊(duì)伍排得很長。

今年九月生活的鮮肉榨菜月餅售價(jià)4元。作為多年的爆款，賣這個(gè)價(jià)自然是有道理的。胡經(jīng)理介紹，他們店的月餅全部選的是腿肉，更有彈性和嚼勁。因?yàn)樾枨罅刻螅ゲ擞蓮S家定點(diǎn)供應(yīng)，胡經(jīng)理說，“因?yàn)槭芡饨珉缰骗h(huán)境的影響，榨菜批次不同，咸度上會(huì)有細(xì)微的差異?！?/p>

就筆者個(gè)人的感覺，這幾年杭州的鮮肉榨菜月餅比早年的要清淡一些。胡經(jīng)理說確實(shí)如此，一個(gè)產(chǎn)品的口感不會(huì)一成不變，他們每年都會(huì)根據(jù)市場(chǎng)情況作出微調(diào)。整體而言，杭州人的口味是越來越清淡了。

在杭州找月餅這幾家老字號(hào)值得嘗

除了“九月生活”，杭州在賣鮮肉榨菜月餅的多是老字號(hào)，味道也都不錯(cuò)。

友好飯店一樓的平海路53號(hào)茶餐廳，他們家的鮮肉榨菜月餅售價(jià)6元，比別家稍貴一些，但吃過以后，覺得值。

首先外形看上去就要大上一圈，掰開月餅，鮮肉顏色還是紅潤潤的，榨菜條條分明。后來一問，豬肉用的是平日拿來做火腿的金華兩頭烏，榨菜則是人氣較高的涪陵榨菜。咬上一口，又薄又酥，入口完全不會(huì)有“實(shí)餅餅”的口感。這家店的鮮肉榨菜月餅每天只賣300個(gè)，中午11點(diǎn)開賣，賣完為止，不過可以提前預(yù)訂（20只起訂）。

仁和路的知味觀總店，鮮肉榨菜月餅每只售價(jià)3.5元。作為杭州的老字號(hào)，來這里的本地人和游客都很多。鮮肉榨菜月餅也是他家的爆款，每逢中秋節(jié)，都是要排長隊(duì)的，而且全是現(xiàn)烤現(xiàn)賣，不會(huì)留到第二天。皮夠酥脆，輕輕一掰，層層疊疊的酥皮就往下掉屑，餡也足夠大。做法比較特別，肉餡被細(xì)細(xì)打成了肉糜，口感特別粉嫩，但也少了韌性，更適合老人家吃。

杭州采芝齋，是蘇州人金智軒創(chuàng)立的，自1928年7月13日在延安路開業(yè)以來，已經(jīng)在西湖邊屹立了90年。他們家的鮮肉榨菜月餅售價(jià)3元，看起來要比別家小一圈，看上去也是其貌不揚(yáng)，但入口有驚喜，皮薄肉多，肉有嚼勁，最重要的是，榨菜味鮮明濃郁。餅雖小了點(diǎn)，但價(jià)格也相對(duì)便宜，兩口一個(gè)，剛剛好。

還有就是筆者小時(shí)候吃得最多的老大房。他們家賣的九芝齋鮮肉榨菜月餅，每只售價(jià)3元。一進(jìn)門，隔老遠(yuǎn)就能聞到香味，拿到手還是燙乎乎的。掰開月餅，榨菜和肉粒分明，美中不足的是外面的月餅酥皮層次不夠分明，咬下去有點(diǎn)實(shí)，雖然肉餡也不少，但入口總覺得“皮厚肉少”。

今年盒馬鮮生也加入了鮮肉榨菜月餅的大軍，每只售價(jià)7元，比別家差不多貴一倍。我之前吃過他們家的三文魚月餅，第一感覺就是餡特別實(shí)在，用料足。鮮肉榨菜月餅也是如此，肉餡大粒，非常新鮮，而且用的應(yīng)該是后腿肉，非常有嚼勁。不過，就筆者的感覺，不算太好吃，主要問題在于皮不夠酥，吃起來感覺特別厚實(shí)。

（本文圖片提供：毛若皓 宋赟）

Hangzhou Residents'Favorite Moon Cake

By Song Yun, Qian Zhuojun

The first historical mention of the moon cake can be traced back toMeng Ling Lu, a book penned by Wu Zimu about the Southern Song (1127-1279). The 20-volume tome goes to great lengths to record the dream and glory of the life in the capital city, which is present-day Hangzhou, of the Southern Song. Though the author's life is little known to readers of today, the luxuries of the life in Hangzhou are meticulously documented in the book. Though the moon cake of the Southern Song as recorded in the book was nothing special, it evolved and gained a cultural significance after the cake got intimately associated with the full moon of the Mid-Autumn Festival.

Hangzhou has seen a full variety of moon cakes marketed long before the festival every year over the past few decades as the country began to enjoy wealth. Today,moon cakes feature all kinds of trendy ingredients such as salmon, ice cream, lobster, walnut, and fresh fruit, just to name a few among the full variety, but many Hangzhou people still favor the moon cake withzhacai(pickled and sliced mustard) and pork stuffed inside. The passion for such a delicacy goes back at least to many decades ago. Back then, the moon cake withzhacaiand pork was baked in roadside shops and the alluring fl avor allured people to line up to buy. Cai Zhi Zai, a candy and cake shop located near the West Lake, is presumably the first business that launched the cake.The alluring baking odor always pulled buyers in. In the early 1980s, azhacaiand pork moon cake cost 8 cents.Gradually it sold at 0.6 yuan.Today it sells at three yuan or more. However, it has remained the favorite moon cake for many local people.

Why is it so popular in Hangzhou? Some folk historians say that thezhacaiand pork moon cake had something to do with Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). It is said that a master baker presented the visiting emperor with azhacaiand pork moon cake and the emperor liked it. The moon cake became popular with local people. Some folk historians,however, disagree. They say that thezhacaiand pork moon

cake is a Hangzhou variation on the pork moon cake originally made in Suzhou style.

One outstanding feature of the moon cake is the salty flavor ofzhacai, unlike overly sweetened ingredients in most other moon cakes.

September Life, a cake shop franchise in Hangzhou, exemplifies the popularity of thezhacaiand pork moon cake. At first,the bakery made and sold the cake only in weeks up to the Moon Festival. Nowadays,it is the franchise's bestseller, which sells for about nine months a year (not available during the Spring Festival and June, July) at its retail outlets across the city.

鮮肉榨菜月餅。Zhacai and pork moon cakes in style

各色月餅烘烤出爐。 Some moon cakes just baked

Different bakeries in Hangzhou make the local people's most favorite moon cake in different ways and different styles.Gourmets can talk for a long while about different appeals of these moon cakes and customers enjoy the variety of fl avors and tastes. A tea restaurant on the ground fl oor of Friendship Hotel in downtown makes and sells 300 Zhacai and Pork moon cakes a day. The cake sells at 6 yuan. Zhi Wei Guan, a time-old restaurant, is famed for itszhacaiand pork moon cake, which sells at 3.5 yuan. The restaurant is one of the most popular moon cake makers in the city. Customers and tourists usually line up to buy as the bakery sells what it makes directly out of fl at-bottomed woks.