□文/本刊記者 楊艷

一場關(guān)于朝天門的集體回憶

□文/本刊記者 楊艷

上世紀(jì)60年代的朝天門。攝影：程良?。▓D片由重慶市客輪公司提供）

集大之展 來自境內(nèi)外上千張老照片

“1948年我父親來到重慶，為了糊口，經(jīng)熟人介紹在搬運工頭處登記名字，取證件，就在朝天門碼頭搬運貨物，那時的朝天門?？苛嗽S多木船，很熱鬧。”這是重慶公路運輸（集團）有限公司退休員工馮阿姨從父親口中聽到的關(guān)于朝天門的回憶。朝天門屹立在山城，作為重慶發(fā)展變遷的標(biāo)志與符號，在每個重慶人心中留有特殊的印記。

3月中旬，在重慶直轄20周年之際，上千幅拍攝重慶朝天門、長江三峽等地的珍貴歷史圖片亮相重慶國泰美術(shù)館，這場由重慶市渝中區(qū)人民政府主辦的大型歷史影像展《永遠朝天門》，首次集中展現(xiàn)了重慶開埠、發(fā)展、抗戰(zhàn)、直轄等時期的影像，展出的照片所拍攝時間從1870年到現(xiàn)在，跨越147年之久，記錄著重慶城的巨變，還記錄著一代又一代重慶人的成長。

展覽期間，無論是像馮阿姨這樣生在重慶長在重慶的市民，還是近年才移居重慶的外地人，又或是路過這座城市的旅行者，但凡參觀過展覽的人，無一不被這大量的文獻影像所震撼。珍貴老照片更喚起了人們對朝天門及渝中區(qū)母城的集體回憶，他們紛紛心懷敬意地來到現(xiàn)場，在千張影像中尋覓兒時的住所和曾經(jīng)玩耍的地方。

在接受《重慶與世界》記者采訪時，執(zhí)行策展人王遠凌說，這不止是一場關(guān)于朝天門的文獻影展，更是整個重慶發(fā)展與變遷的攝影實錄。“朝天門，作為重慶碼頭中最重要的部分，經(jīng)歷了太多改變，我們不能否認它的堅實與勇敢，在地圖它雖然只是一個地標(biāo)，但實際上是重慶人的精神內(nèi)核，重慶人骨子里的堅韌與它有著驚人的相似?！睋?jù)他介紹，從文史圖片的收集、整理篩選，到現(xiàn)場規(guī)劃，此次展覽籌備一年之久，得到廣大群眾以及境內(nèi)外機構(gòu)的支持，照片來自攝影師、市民、博物館、老牌國企等，大多無償將老照片提供給展覽方，并無償?shù)貐⑴c資料錄制。

在展覽作品中，我們看到有國際級大師英國攝影家納達夫·坎德爾、美國戰(zhàn)地記者卡爾·麥當(dāng)斯的作品，有第一批進入重慶的外國人英國攝影師約翰·湯姆遜、英國傳教士羅貝特·陶維新早在19世紀(jì)末的照片，還有一些由馬格南圖片社、帕諾斯圖片社、瑞士攝影基金會、英國布里斯托大學(xué)中國歷史照片研究中心、法國尼埃普斯攝影博物館等提供的影像資料。其中，近代朝天門的影像資料多數(shù)來自境外，這也是19世紀(jì)后期重慶開埠以來，向中國和世界的第一次集中展示，彌足珍貴。

他者之眼 識老照片憶“門戶”往事

“從古至今，從一個時代的繁忙到一個時代的繁榮，再到另一個時代的繁華，朝天門發(fā)生著巨大的變化?！边@是參觀者內(nèi)心發(fā)出的共同心聲。朝天門碼頭自古是外來人及物資進入重慶的大門，是當(dāng)之無愧的“重慶第一門戶”，這有理可據(jù)。

長長的石梯是山城的特色。（圖片由中國歷史圖片研究中心提供）

明初時期，朝臣戴鼎奉旨擴建重慶舊城，依照九宮八卦之圖建造共計17座城門，而其中規(guī)模最大的一座城門被命名為朝天門，以此表明臣子對朝廷的敬重?！澳菚r圣旨傳來，經(jīng)長江到達朝天門，全城迎官接圣，朝天門最早就被賦予了如此之高的政治功能?！鼻爸貞c市文聯(lián)黨組書記藍錫麟說。

重慶城有3000年歷史，朝天門就如一個起點，一個發(fā)祥地。“重慶人的居住、繁衍是從朝天門開始，所有建筑從朝天門逐步向七星崗?fù)ㄟh門方向延伸，形成一座古城，古城大概有2.3平方公里，正是17個城門圍合的面積，整個城墻長8000多米?！敝貞c城市規(guī)劃建設(shè)專家何智亞介紹了古城的大致情況。

重慶市文化遺產(chǎn)研究院研究員、古城研究專家袁東山研究山城防御體系20多年，他主要研究重慶城的空間演變，從古城的空間設(shè)置上，他進一步道出了朝天門城門的重要性：“渝中區(qū)的地形就像一片樹葉，從朝天門到佛圖關(guān)，地形逐漸增高，以此突出朝天門區(qū)域的獨特性，朝天門有頭道門、二道門、三道門，形成三個甕城，其中有一棟澄清樓，是宋蒙戰(zhàn)爭時期抗蒙名將余玠的招賢館，在2010年的時候我們還找到了衙署大門，這些重要府邸、衙署以及三道門洞的防御體系的設(shè)置，足見朝天門在17扇城門中的重要性?！?/p>

上世紀(jì)70年代朝天門夜景。（圖片由Gettyiamges提供）

直到開埠時期，朝天門成了中國內(nèi)陸最早的對外通商口岸。英、日、美、法各國紛紛來到重慶設(shè)領(lǐng)事館，開設(shè)公司、洋行。海關(guān)設(shè)立在朝天門，當(dāng)時的重慶海關(guān)管轄范圍是：長江上起南岸黃葛渡土地廟和北岸城墻西端，下迄南岸竅角沱鐵廠和北岸安溪石橋，全長3英里。嘉陵江從朝天門上溯1英里為止，所有過往的中外船只必須在此水域內(nèi)停泊，按規(guī)定報關(guān)并接受抽查。

在此次展覽中，一批在百年前以重慶人為視覺中心的照片，吸引了眾多參觀者，這些照片記錄下重慶人清貧生活和勤勞奮斗的細節(jié)：重慶人在江邊挑水，船夫合力劃船……這是1917年，美國社會經(jīng)濟學(xué)家西德尼·戴維·甘博考察中國時留下的珍貴影像。因得天獨厚的地形與源源不斷的水運資源，朝天門在那時就成為大西南水運重鎮(zhèn)。大量沿江而來的各種貨物在朝天門集散，引來了龐大的人流聚集，有搬運工、纖夫、轎夫、挑水夫……那時的朝天門一片繁忙景象?！袄先顺Ｕf少不出川，其實出川就是從朝天門出去，到夔門，然后走出去看世界，回來也是從朝天門回來，當(dāng)年重慶第一輛小汽車就是從朝天門一步步抬上來的。”在青年雕塑家劉景活的眼里，朝天門就是重慶人打開世界的窗口。

直到重慶第一任市長潘文華來渝主持重慶碼頭的新建和改、擴建，依舊以朝天門為原點。那時的重慶“一面當(dāng)陸，三面濱江”，人口與店鋪大多集中在渝中區(qū)陜西街至朝天門的舊城區(qū)一帶，城市空間十分狹小，全城還沒有一條馬路，滑竿、轎子是當(dāng)時主要的交通工具。從1927年開始，重慶商埠督辦公署決定修建3條市區(qū)交通干線，就以朝天門為中心，向兩路口、菜園壩、曾家?guī)r發(fā)展。藍錫麟說：“從明清時期一直到民國前期，朝天門就一直是重慶的政治中心、經(jīng)濟中心，最繁華的地段就在下半城，并非是現(xiàn)在的解放碑位置?！?/p>

眾人之心 建設(shè)中那些感動瞬間

20世紀(jì)50年代，朝天門碼頭惠澤百姓民生。據(jù)重慶公路運輸（集團）有限公司退休員工鄧永利回憶，1952年重慶成立第一家搬運公司，那時重慶的碼頭有朝天門、大溪溝和菜園壩，朝天門碼頭主要運輸糧食、水果、面粉等生活用品，大溪溝碼頭運輸煤炭、河沙、石子等，菜園壩碼頭主要運輸建筑材料。朝天門碼頭對重慶市民的日常生活，以及國民經(jīng)濟的恢復(fù)起了舉足輕重的作用。

上世紀(jì)40年代的朝天門。（圖片由《國家地理》提供）

1998年，重慶直轄后的第二年修建朝天門廣場，它的建立在重慶人心中留下了濃墨重彩的一筆。“修建朝天門廣場是一個極其光榮的任務(wù)，它的建成樹立了重慶直轄后的城市形象，老百姓也在這個項目中看到了城市發(fā)展的希望?！痹鴧⑴c過朝天門廣場修建的何智亞回憶了當(dāng)時修建時的情景，“大家的熱情高漲，晚上時常有人自愿留下來加班，我當(dāng)時納悶，白天已通過審核的工程，晚上為何還要加班呢？現(xiàn)場的工人告訴我，他們認為沒有達到最好的效果，于是自愿加班返工?！背扉T已成為人們懷舊，寄托鄉(xiāng)愁的重要載體。

“朝天門的發(fā)展不是某個人的功勞，是隨歷史發(fā)展自然形成，這絕非偶然?！痹貞c市人大常委會副主任王洪華說，朝天門廣場的建設(shè)與渝中區(qū)舊城改造項目血脈相連，與濱江路環(huán)線的建設(shè)骨架相通。要說朝天門廣場的修建，就不能不談濱江路的修建工程?！坝逯袇^(qū)濱江路的建設(shè)規(guī)劃早在抗戰(zhàn)時期就已被人提及，但那時沒有條件實現(xiàn)，直到改革開放后才有了實現(xiàn)的可能。記得在修建濱江路1公里示范段時，這個項目就是一個‘感動上帝’的工程，由于費用有限，很多人自愿加入修建隊伍，解放軍、大學(xué)生、工人、農(nóng)民等都趕來義務(wù)勞動。當(dāng)這段路修建成功，大大鼓舞了市民的信心?！被貞洰?dāng)年那段大拆遷、大建設(shè)、大發(fā)展的艱苦歲月，許多重慶人都認為這些付出是值得的，改革開放帶來的城市巨變，是當(dāng)年數(shù)十萬渝中人為幸福生活努力奮斗的結(jié)果。

朝天門廣場建成后設(shè)置了“零公里”地理標(biāo)志，意味著這里就是城市干線公路的起點，是一個城市中心點的象征。它的亮相，也成為不少市民和游客來到朝天門廣場必看的一景。

20世紀(jì)90年代開始，朝天門進入一個新的繁榮時期。那時的朝天門綜合交易市場生意極度興旺，新潮的服裝批發(fā)炙手可熱。“2000年到2005年期間，是朝天門最火爆的時候，朝天門綜合交易市場在全國批發(fā)行業(yè)擁有極大影響力，每天凌晨4點，大正商場的門口就等滿了人，人與貨物擠在門口，交通也時常受阻，當(dāng)商場大門才開了一半，人們便蜂擁而至，火爆程度可見一斑?！碑?dāng)年，朝天門綜合交易市場就是重慶商貿(mào)交易的一張“名片”，不少商戶在這里創(chuàng)業(yè)、發(fā)家、致富，對于老一代渝商來說，這里是他們發(fā)家致富的風(fēng)水寶地。

不此如此，朝天門碼頭作為老百姓生活休閑之地，也曾發(fā)生了不少趣聞軼事。重慶市地方史研究會會長周勇曾是重慶市體工隊的跳水隊員，他回憶道：“跳水隊的孩子經(jīng)常到朝天門三碼頭的橋墩去跳水，有一次我把衣服脫在岸邊，游完泳發(fā)現(xiàn)衣服不見了，我家住在滄白路，于是我只好光溜溜地從朝天門走到滄白路，這段兒時趣聞時常成為我們一家人的回憶?！?/p>

未來之望 新建筑翻開城市新篇章

時代在變，格局在變。2012年8月，隨著一聲巨響，朝天門重慶港客運大樓和三峽賓館成功爆破，又一次開啟朝天門的新建設(shè)征程。一座命名為“朝天揚帆”的新建筑將落地朝天門，據(jù)了解，這個新建筑將與朝天門廣場連為一體，看上去就像一艘揚帆起航的輪船。

與此同時，朝天門綜合交易市場也將打開新格局，業(yè)態(tài)上將進行新調(diào)整，目前一大批倉儲、物流、批發(fā)等業(yè)態(tài)正在被淘汰，未來的朝天門市場將構(gòu)建成以電子商務(wù)為依托、線上線下融合發(fā)展的現(xiàn)代綜合商貿(mào)體系，涵蓋商貿(mào)、辦公、旅游、文化等多元化業(yè)態(tài)。

有許多自小就在渝中區(qū)長大的重慶人，跟朝天門建立了深厚的感情，對于朝天門的變遷，懷著一種復(fù)雜心情，重慶前文聯(lián)副主席李自治就是其中一位。1969年他知識青年下鄉(xiāng)，就是從朝天門啟程，朝天門在他們這一代重慶人心里留下了許多回憶?？吹匠鞘薪ㄔO(shè)一天天變化，從前的記憶變得越來越少，他們高興之余難免有些感傷，但更對朝天門的建設(shè)寄予厚望。

這場大型影像展雖已結(jié)束，重慶人對朝天門的回憶卻從未停止，對于朝天門的期望，還在繼續(xù)發(fā)酵。我們有理由相信，朝天門的改變，也預(yù)示著重慶母城將翻開新的篇章。

（本文所有圖片經(jīng)活動方授權(quán)使用，版權(quán)歸原作者所有，未經(jīng)授權(quán)不得轉(zhuǎn)載）

A large-scale exhibition pooled with over one thousand domestic and foreign old photos

In the middle of March, it marked the 20th anniversary of Chongqing being a municipality directly under the central government.More than one thousand precious historical photos showing Chantianmen, the Yangtze Gorges and other Chongqing places were displayed in the Chongqing Guotai Art Museum.Sponsored by People’s Government of Chongqing, Yuzhong District, this large-scale historical image exhibition themed with“Eternal Memory about Chaotianmen” firstly focused on the presentation of images showing Chongqing historic development during the periods of opening-up, further development, anti-Japanese War and being municipality.Those displayed photos span a long time of 147 years from 1870 to the present, and record both tremendous changes of Chongqing and the growth of generations of Chongqing people.

In an interview with magazineThe World & Chongqing, Wang Yuanling, executive of this exhibition, said that it’s not just a documentary photo display about Chaotianmen, but the photographic records of Chongqing’s development and changes.He introduced that this exhibition has won great supports from the broad masses and domestic and foreign institutions.The displayed photos are offered by photographers, citizens, museums and old state-owned enterprises who offer these old photos to the exhibition party and participate in the material recording for free.

In this exhibition, we can see works created by Nadav?Kandel, an international British photographer and Karl?Mados, the American war correspondent, photos about the first group of foreigners who entered Chongqing as early as the end of nineteenth century like British photographer John Thompson, British missionary Robert Tavinovo, and image materials offered by Magnum Photos, Panos Photos, Swiss Photography Foundation, research center for Chinese historical photos in the University of Bristol and Nièpce Museum of Photography in France.

Appreciate old photos to recall the memory about Chaotianmen from a different view

In early Ming Dynasty, the courtier Dai Dingfeng was on Emperor’s order to work on the expansion of the old city of Chongqing.A total of 17 city gates were built in accordance with the Diagrams of Jiugong and Bagua (the terms from Chinese ancient astronomy), among which Chaotianmen represented the biggest one, showing vassals’ great respect for imperial court.Lan Xilin, Former Secretary of the CPC Chongqing Literary Federation said, “at that time, imperial edict arrived in Chaotianmen through the Yangtze river.Chaotianmen served as a place welcoming senior officials and receiving imperial edict with a key political function.

Yuan Dongshan, researcher of Chongqing Academy of Cultural Heritage and expert of ancient city, has studied defense system of mountain city for 20 years and mainly worked on the study of Chongqing spatial evolution.He voiced the importance of Chaotianmen again from the spatial arrangement of ancient city that terrain in Yuzhong District shaped like a leaf is to rise gradually from Chaotianmen to Fotuguan, contributing to its geographic uniqueness; in fact, there are three gates lined in order, which brings about such spatial arrangement that Wengcheng (small town outside the city gate), mansion house and government office stand in line; it’s self-evident that Chaotianmen has a superior ranking among these 17 gates since it is equipped with a defense system of three gates.

When Chongqing was designated as commercial port, Chaotianmen became the earliest foreign treaty port built in Chinese inland.Since British, Japan, America and France came to Chongqing to set up consulate, start companies and foreign banks, the Customs was built in Chaotianmen.A series of precious images were displayed in exhibition, all of which were shot in 1917 when Sidney?David ?Gambo, the American social economist, conducted an investigation of China.In viewing these photos, we can see that Chaotianmen became an important shipping town at that time since it was endowed with unique advantageous terrain and a steady shipping resource.The young sculptor Liu Jinghuo said, “elderly people often say young people would not like to go out of Sichuan; people who want to leave Sichuan must fi rstly start their journey in Chaotianmen, travel to Kuimen, and then go out to see the outside world; they have to follow the route when coming back to Sichuan; besides, it’s from the Chaotianmen that the first car was lifted up.” He also praised Chaotianmen as the window for Chongqing people to have access to the outside world.

When Pan Wenhua, the first mayor of Chonqging, presided over the construction and renovation of Chongqing ports, Chaotianmen was still taken as the base.

Working in union witnesses those touched moments during the construction

In 1998 when Chongqing became a municipal city, construction of Chaotianmen Square weighed heavily in the mind of Chongqing people.He Zhiya who ever participated in its construction recalled the scene at that time and said, “it’s a glorious mission to build Chaotianmen Square; its construction has set up a sound city image for the later Chongqing’s municipality while residents also catched a glimpse of hope of city’s development.” He added, “at that time people were so enthusiast that some people were willing to work overtime in the evening.” Therefore, we can see that Chaotianmen becomes an important carrier for Chongqing people to recollect reminiscence and express nostalgic sentiment.

Wang Honghua, former deputy director of the Standing Committee of Chongqing People’s Congress, said, “when it comes to the construction of Chaotianmen Square, we have to talk about the construction of Binjiang Road; I remember that in building one-kilometer demonstration section of Binjiang Road, this construction was doomed to be a God’s tearsshedding project since despite of limited funding, lots of people volunteered to participate in this project; citizens’ confidence was significantly raised by the completion of demonstration section.”

At the beginning of 1990s, Chaotianmen entered into another prosperous period.As integrated trading market in Chaotianmen was flourishing at that time, it acted as a famous brand representing Chongqing trade and business.

The future star - new building opens a new chapter for Chongqing

As the era is changing, pattern of development is also moving forward.In the coming days, a new building named “Chao Tian Yang Fan” (referred to a great expectation for further development of Chaotianmen as its Chinese name means a sailing boat) will be built in Chaotianmen.It is said that this new building will be linked together with Chaotianmen Square, which looks like a sailing boat.

At the same time, Chaotianmen’s integrated trade market will open up a new pattern with some adjustments in businesses.At present, a large number of businesses like warehousing, logistics and wholesale are being phased out.It is said that Chaotianmen market in future will build a modern integrated trade system which is to rely on e-commerce, combine online and offline development and cover multiple businesses including trade and business, office work, tourism and culture.

Even though this large-scale exhibition came to the end, Chongqing people’s memory to Chaotianmen never faded, and their expectation of Chaotianmen continues to grow up.We have every reason to believe that changes occurred in Chaotianmen indicate that a new chapter will be opened up in main regions of Chongqing.

(Pictures are provided by the sponsor)

A Collective Memory about Chaotianmen

□ Article / Journalist Yang Yan