◇文|本刊記者 陳科龍 圖| 劉汪洋

亞細(xì)亞，火油，重慶……你能想象這些詞匯如何關(guān)聯(lián)？

◇文|本刊記者 陳科龍 圖| 劉汪洋

長(zhǎng)江重慶朝天門下游15公里，有一個(gè)地方叫唐家沱，那是很多重慶人都知道的。而包括重慶人在內(nèi)的很多人并不知曉的是，唐家沱曾被戲稱“中國(guó)海軍基地”。此戲稱出自茅盾，他曾寓居唐家沱。

唐家沱，長(zhǎng)江流入銅鑼?shí){前形成的一個(gè)回水沱，是長(zhǎng)江邊上的天然水碼頭。它東靠鐵山，南隔長(zhǎng)江與放牛坪相望，西南隔江則有雞冠石，三面環(huán)山。抗戰(zhàn)期間，敵機(jī)很難對(duì)唐家沱形成俯沖轟炸，又因水運(yùn)便利，成為一個(gè)躲避空襲的場(chǎng)所。曹禺便是在唐家沱的一艘船上，用3個(gè)月時(shí)間完成了巴金小說(shuō)《家》的話劇劇本改編。

15km away from Chaotianmen Chongqing at the lower reaches, a place named Tangjiatuo is known by most Chongqing people. However, a lot of people, even Chongqing people, do not know that Tangjiatuo once was nicknamed as “China's Naval Base”; the saying was originated from Mao Dun, a renowned Chinese writer who once lived in it.

Tangjiatuo, a backwater bay that forms when Yangtze River flows into the Tongluo Gorge, is a natural dock on Yangtze River. It has Tieshan Mountain in the east and faces Fangniuping in the south, as well as Jiguanshi in the southwest with Yangtze River in between, so it is surrounded by mountains in three directions. During the anti-Japanese war, the enemy planes could hardly make dive bombing at Tangjiatuo. With convenient water transportation, Tangjiatuo became a wonderful place for people to hide from the air strikes. It is on a ship at Tangjiatuo that Cao Yu adapted the drama script of Ba Jin’s Home within 3 months.

重慶開(kāi)埠的歷史縮影Historical Epitome of Chongqing Port

提及唐家沱，繞不開(kāi)亞細(xì)亞火油公司。早在抗戰(zhàn)前的20世紀(jì)初，英國(guó)亞細(xì)亞火油公司便看中了唐家沱優(yōu)良的水運(yùn)條件，在此建造煉油廠及庫(kù)房“安營(yíng)扎寨”，向重慶乃至西南地區(qū)銷售火油，同時(shí)兼營(yíng)茶葉與煙類。

1890年，積貧積弱的清政府與英國(guó)簽訂《煙臺(tái)條約續(xù)增專條》，重慶開(kāi)為商埠。重慶成為開(kāi)埠城市后，川江航運(yùn)逐漸被西方列強(qiáng)控制，他們紛紛在重慶開(kāi)設(shè)洋行、公司，建立工廠、開(kāi)采礦山，傾銷商品、掠奪原料。英商亞細(xì)亞火油公司即是其中之一。

1915年，重慶海關(guān)理船廳的港務(wù)管理規(guī)定，裝運(yùn)煤油的商船只能停泊在距離市區(qū)較遠(yuǎn)的唐家沱與蘇家壩。1918年，英商亞細(xì)亞火油公司便將油庫(kù)建于唐家沱，同時(shí)還修建了大班房、二班房、辦公樓、儲(chǔ)油罐、儲(chǔ)油碼頭、車間等。

這些建筑依山勢(shì)由低到高布局，共計(jì)三層臺(tái)地。第一層臺(tái)地建有桶裝庫(kù)房、煉油廠、儲(chǔ)油碼頭及辦公樓等。第二層臺(tái)地建有二班房，以及大小兩個(gè)立式鋼結(jié)構(gòu)、容量分別為8000噸和6000噸的儲(chǔ)油罐。第三層臺(tái)地為唐家沱的制高點(diǎn)，建有大班房及附屬建筑。

We cannot talk about Tangjiatuo without mentioning Asiatic Petroleum Company. At the beginning of 1900s, Asiatic Petroleum Company preferred the convenient water transportation of Tangjiatuo and “set up a base camp” here by building processing plants and storehouses. It sold petroleum, tea and tobaccos to Chongqing and other regions in the southwest China.

In 1890, the impoverished and enfeebled Qing Dynasty government signed Additional Articles of the Treaty of Yangtai with Britain, and Chongqing was opened as a trading port. After that, the shipping on the upper reaches of Yangtze River was controlled by the western powers which continuously set up banks, companies and factories to exploit mines, dump commodities and plunder raw materials in Chongqing. Asiatic Petroleum Company was one of them.

In 1915, the port administration of Chongqing Customs and Shipping Office provided that the commercial ships that loaded and transported petroleum could only anchored at Tangjiatuo and Sujiaba which were far away from the urban district. In 1918, Asiatic Petroleum Company located its oil depot at Tangjiatuo and also built the house for general manager, the house for the secondary, the office building, the oil storage tank, the oil storage dock and the workshop etc..

These buildings were arranged from low to high in accordance with the physical features of mountains and were divided into three levels of terrace. The first level was built with the storehouse for barrels, the processing plant, the oil storage dock and the office building etc.. The second level was built with the house for the secondary, two vertical steel structures which include a big one and a small one, and two oil storage tanks whose volumes are 8000 tons and 6000 tons respectively. The third level, as the commanding point of Tangjiatuo, was built with the house for general manager and its accessory buildings.

亦遠(yuǎn)亦近的大班房House for General Manager, Far and Near

從海爾路驅(qū)車向鐵山坪方向行駛，在唐家沱太陽(yáng)海岸的別墅群旁，一棟古舊而不失氣派的建筑孤零零地矗立在一個(gè)小山坡上。沿著雜草叢生的小路蜿蜒而上，尋訪的腳步聲驚醒了大門前兩只酣睡的大黃狗，犬吠之聲不絕于耳。

這棟修建在唐家沱小山頂?shù)慕ㄖ词莵喖?xì)亞火油公司的大班房，曾是總經(jīng)理級(jí)別的英商住所。大班房門口的臺(tái)階前，立有一塊“江北區(qū)文物保護(hù)單位”石碑，落款時(shí)間為1988年12月30日。

此處為唐家沱的制高點(diǎn)，視線平遠(yuǎn)而寬闊。舉目望去，銅鑼?shí){美景盡收眼底。61歲的陳其憲住在老房子旁邊的一棟小平房里，在此守護(hù)大班房已有6年時(shí)間。老陳以狗為伴，自得其樂(lè)。

大班房的底層為五室一廳，各個(gè)房間通過(guò)大廳相連，大廳的前端為門廊，并設(shè)有一間門房。二樓的平面與底層大同小異，只是把底層門廳處改為通向閣樓的樓梯。樓房的正面帶有哥特式建筑風(fēng)格，用青磚砌成的八棱柱將一樓的門廊、二樓的陽(yáng)臺(tái)與三層的閣樓連為一體，形成挺拔向上的伸展態(tài)勢(shì)，既氣勢(shì)恢宏，又富有變化。陳師傅說(shuō)，整個(gè)樓房墻面的磚縫，全部是由糯米漿拌石灰粘連，平整而牢固。

小樓的欄桿早已不見(jiàn)蹤影，日漸殘破的大班房被后人用木樁支撐。研究山城建筑多年的歐陽(yáng)樺介紹，大班房二樓的欄桿為寶瓶式，底層的欄桿為中式美人靠。大班房的屋頂為變形的歇山頂，采用的是英制進(jìn)口綠黃色琉璃筒瓦。繞至大班房左側(cè)的小山坡，能清晰地看到大班房的瓦當(dāng)和滴水，四個(gè)角的主要瓦當(dāng)圖案為英式皇冠，而滴水上的圖案則是中式的鯉魚(yú)。

陳師傅曾聽(tīng)人說(shuō)起，上世紀(jì)70年代，維修工在維修屋頂時(shí)，把大班房的避雷針拆下來(lái)當(dāng)廢鐵賣了，結(jié)果左側(cè)的壁爐煙囪被雷擊中后坍塌。再后來(lái)，為安全起見(jiàn)，右側(cè)的煙囪也被拆除，大班房的建筑外觀受到了很大影響。

Driving along the Haier Road toward Tieshanping, you will see an antiquated but grand building next to the Sun Coast villas in Tangjiatuo standing alone on a hillside. When wriggling up a pathway that is overgrown with grass and weeds, if your footsteps wake up two big yellow dogs sleeping at the front door, their barks would linger around your ears forever.

插圖 / 歐陽(yáng)樺

This building at the hilltop of Tangjiatuo is the house for the general manager of Asiatic Petroleum Company. It was the residence for British businessmen of the general manager level. A stone tablet that is carved with the words “Cultural Relics Protected by Jiangbei District” is erected in front of the house, and the inscribed time is 30th December, 1988.

This place is the commanding point of Tangjiatuo, so its view is far and wide. You can have a panoramic view of the beautiful scenes of Tongluo Gorge. Chen Qixian, a 61 years old man, lives in a small single-storey house next to the house for general manager. He has guarded this house for 6 years. Accompanied by the dogs, he is quite content with his lot.

The ground floor of the house consists of five bedrooms and one hall which connects other rooms. At the front end of the hall is a porch with a janitor’sroom. The second floor and the ground floor are largely identical with only minor differences, and the porch is changed into a stairway to the attic. The front side of the house is Gothic. The eight-edges pillar of black bricks connects the porch at the ground floor, the balcony at the second floor and the attic at the third floor and forms an upward stretched posture with grandness and changes. Master Chen said that the brickwork joint of the walls of the whole building was pasted with the mix of glutinous rice paste and lime, so it is smooth and firm.

The handrails of the building have disappeared for a long time, and the dilapidated house are supported with wood piles by the later generations. Ouyang Hua who has studied the architectures of Chongqing for several years introduced that the handrails of the second floor is in bottle shape, while the handrails of the ground floor is in Chinese Meirenkao style(a kind of handrails wins its name for being sit by beauties and leaned along their waists). The roof of the house is a saddle roof that changes a little. The tiles are Britain-made green-yellow semicircle-shaped glazed tiles. The eaves and the dripping eaves of the house can be seen clearly from the hillside on the left side of the house. The patterns of the eaves on the four corners of the house mainly are crowns, while the patterns of the dripping eaves are Chinese carps.

插圖 / 歐陽(yáng)樺

Master Chen once heard about that in 1970s, the maintenance workers dismantled the lightningrod on the house and sold it as scrap iron when they were maintaining the roof, so that the chimney of the fireplace at the left side was struck by lightning and then collapsed. Later, for the sake of safety, the chimney at the right side was dismantled too, so the architectural exterior of the house was influenced a lot.

二班房已消逝在煙云背后The House for the Secondary Has Vanished Behind the Clouds

沿著大班房前的一條小路往江邊下行，經(jīng)過(guò)一坡長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的石梯坎，再繞過(guò)一棟墻壁上寫有“工業(yè)學(xué)大慶”標(biāo)語(yǔ)的老廠房，便來(lái)到了一所駕校的門前。駕校似乎已經(jīng)停辦，無(wú)人值守的大門也敞開(kāi)著，寬闊的訓(xùn)練場(chǎng)空無(wú)一物，也尋不見(jiàn)亞細(xì)亞火油公司儲(chǔ)油罐的蹤跡。而殘破的二班房，則位于訓(xùn)練場(chǎng)一角的土坡上。

二班房原來(lái)是一棟二層半的小洋樓，是亞細(xì)亞火油公司副手的住所，門前也有一塊“江北區(qū)文物保護(hù)單位”的石碑。二班房已相當(dāng)破敗，門窗與屋頂都已損毀，房間內(nèi)的地面雜草叢生，一些爬上了墻頂?shù)奶俾参锏勾瓜聛?lái)，給本就破敗的小樓更添了幾分頹廢與荒涼。在底層的一間房屋內(nèi)，英國(guó)人留下的惟一痕跡，便是壁爐，它雖被人拆走，但墻壁內(nèi)煙囪依然殘留了煙熏的痕跡。

離二班房不遠(yuǎn)的江邊，是亞細(xì)亞火油公司的煉油廠及庫(kù)房。這里有近十棟老建筑，如今是一家造船廠的工廠。其中，最氣派的便是亞細(xì)亞火油公司的辦公樓，靠山的一面有三層，靠江的一面有兩層。后來(lái)的使用者，在原來(lái)古樸大氣的辦公樓外墻貼上了暗紅色的瓷磚，顯得格格不入。

其他的建筑基本保留了原來(lái)的風(fēng)貌，規(guī)整的青磚墻體，坡度陡峭的屋頂，整齊劃一的門窗，彰顯著工業(yè)化建筑的大氣與嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)。雖然是庫(kù)房與廠房，但依然有許多細(xì)節(jié)體現(xiàn)出設(shè)計(jì)者的藝術(shù)品味：每一個(gè)窗框上的弧形裝飾，都是用青石與紅色砂石間插鑲嵌；以青磚為主的外立柱，有規(guī)律地嵌入了砂石體。

Walk down toward the river along a pathway in front of the house for general manager. After a long stone steps, make a detour around an old plant with the slogan “Learn Industry from Daqing”, then you are in front of a driver training school which seemingly has closed for a long time. The front door is opened and has no guard. The wide training ground is empty and has little traces of the oil storage tanks of Asiatic Petroleum Company. The dilapidated house for the secondary is at an earth slope in the corner of the training ground.

The house for the secondary once was a small western-style building of two stories and a half and was the residence of the Secondary of Asiatic Petroleum Company. A stone tablet that is carved with the words “Cultural Relics Protected by Jiangbei District” is erected in front of the house too. This house is quite old and worn-out. Its doors, windows and roof have been broken. Grass grows anywhere on the ground inside the house. Some liana climbs to the top of the walls and then hangs upside down, which makes this dilapidated building more decadent and bleak. In a room at the ground floor, the only trace that the British people left behind is the fireplace. Although the fireplace has been removed, there are still some vestiges of smoke in the chimney.

The appearance of the house which is made of bricks and woods is relatively special. The height of the ground floor is about 1 meter. The saddle roof has collapsed quite a lot, and the black tiles on the roof are not much left. If observing carefully, you can see some fragmentary patterns of a Chinese character “Shou”(which means longevity) on the eaves and some bat patterns on the dripping eaves.

The processing plant and the storehouse of Asiatic Petroleum Company are at the riverside near the house for the secondary. Almost ten old buildings are used as the factories of a ship plant. Among them, the most splendid one is the office building of Asiatic Petroleum Company. It has three storeys at the side backing on mountains and two storeys at the side backing on the river. The later users pasted dark red ceramic tiles on the outer walls of this originally unsophisticated and splendid office building, which is quite a misfit.

Other buildings keep the original styles and features basically. The neat black-brick walls, the steep roofs and the uniform doors and windows show the grandness and strictness of the industrialized buildings. Even the storehouses and the plants reveal the artistic tastes of the designer with ample details: the curved decorations on each window frame are inlaid with black stones and red sandstone; the exterior pillar which is mainly made of black bricks is regularly inlaid with sandstone.

Asiatic, Petroleum, Chongqing...... Can You Imagine How these words are Connected?

Article/ Chen Kelong Pictures/ Liu Wangyang