張宏 苗青

別人不了解金華這座城市，但你只要一說金華火腿，外地人一般都會(huì)頓作恍然大悟狀，忙不迭說：“知道了知道了?！?/p>

金華古稱婺州，下轄八個(gè)縣，故亦稱八婺。

城中有條河，叫婺江;本地老百姓最愛唱的戲叫婺劇，流行于金、麗、溫、衢及杭州等地;城市地圖上最醒目的三江口處，建造了別致氣派的一座大劇院，豎著“中國(guó)婺劇院”五個(gè)大字，是厲害的國(guó)字號(hào)。三江六岸、四面八方的“金華銀”（）看見了，自豪感油然而生，阿郎（）理所當(dāng)然都是“婺”的傳人。

金華的金名片

自古以來，金華火腿是金華這座城市最好的名片。以前去外地開會(huì)出差，甚至到東南亞一帶，別人不了解金華這座城市，你只要一說金華火腿，外地人一般都會(huì)頓作恍然大悟狀，忙不迭說：“知道了知道了?！?/p>

當(dāng)然，現(xiàn)在外地人仍有不知道金華的，金華銀也可以與時(shí)俱進(jìn)地?fù)Q一張名片：“義烏曉得伐，義烏就是阿郎金華的一個(gè)縣?！钡驼{(diào)中蘊(yùn)含張揚(yáng)，這一招很管用，地球人都知道。

如果遇上個(gè)別不食人間煙火，又不解風(fēng)情的文藝青年偏偏不曉得金華火腿，也不曉得義烏，金華銀還有一招：“你喜歡旅游、看電影啊，橫店影視城知道伐，阿郎金華下面縣里的一個(gè)鎮(zhèn)搞出來的?！彪p管齊下，火力倍增，殺傷力不是一般的。

金庸夢(mèng)幻火腿菜

金華火腿確實(shí)有名，但很多人不知道如何燒。

金庸在《射雕英雄傳》中，寫了一道“二十四橋明月夜”的火腿菜，吸引眾人眼球：“黃蓉十指靈巧輕柔，將豆腐這樣觸手即爛之物削成二十四個(gè)小球，放入先挖了二十四個(gè)圓孔的火腿內(nèi)，扎住火腿再蒸，等到蒸熟，火腿的鮮味全到了豆腐之中，火腿卻棄之不用。”

據(jù)說香港美食家蔡瀾，按照書中所敘，將這看似不可能的火腿菜進(jìn)行復(fù)制，贏得金庸先生贊嘆，并且，這道菜還成了香港“鏞記”酒店的私房菜。

金華的廚師讀小說《射雕英雄傳》，據(jù)說讀得一下點(diǎn)頭一下?lián)u頭，點(diǎn)頭是佩服作家驚人的想象力;搖頭是感覺此菜太浪費(fèi)，一只火腿就這樣糟蹋了，這盤豆腐，原料成本和時(shí)間成本高得嚇?biāo)廊恕?/p>

其實(shí)，不必大費(fèi)周章?！敖鹑A銀”只要在豆腐上撒些火腿末或火腿薄片，一樣蒸出小說中的那種美味效果，而且不浪費(fèi)。

金華酒，黃酒中的隱士

“晉字金華酒，圍棋左傳文”，這是明代馮時(shí)化在《酒史》中所說的。金華酒竟占字、酒、棋、文四絕之一。大家耳熟能詳?shù)摹督鹌棵贰芬粫?，主人公穿的是“杭州綢”，喝的是“金華酒”，提到金華酒的場(chǎng)景也有數(shù)十處之多。

1358年，朱元璋率紅巾軍攻下婺州，改婺州為“寧越”，為與民共度時(shí)艱，頒布禁酒令。其時(shí)，任命胡大海為浙江的指揮長(zhǎng)，胡大海兒子被金華酒的美妙所迷，竟違反了禁酒令。朱元璋大怒，欲手刃之。幕僚勸：胡大海正在外地與元軍作戰(zhàn)，是否寬恕，以安其心。朱元璋回答：寧愿胡大海負(fù)我，也不得破壞法令。

胡大海當(dāng)時(shí)什么反應(yīng)，書上沒寫，但胡大?；亟鹑A后，仍然對(duì)朱元璋忠心耿耿，四處征戰(zhàn)，最后犧牲在金華八詠樓前。

現(xiàn)在的金華酒逐漸式微，只有在農(nóng)家自釀米酒中找到一些遺韻。

程咬金與金華酥餅

“金華火腿、金華酒、金華酥餅”被稱為“金華三絕”。

不會(huì)有人想到，金華酥餅行業(yè)把五大三粗的程咬金當(dāng)作祖師爺。金華酥餅行業(yè)中龍頭老大默香酥餅的“酥餅博物館”中，第一展廳就矗立著程咬金樹雕。

傳說隋朝末年，加入瓦崗寨之前，程咬金在金華賣燒餅為生。制出的燒餅圓若茶杯口，形似蟹殼，面帶芝麻，兩面金黃，加上干菜肉餡之香，風(fēng)味獨(dú)特。有一次，他的燒餅做得太多了，一整天也沒賣完。程咬金將燒餅統(tǒng)統(tǒng)放在熄火后仍有余溫的爐膛里，準(zhǔn)備明天繼續(xù)賣。

第二天，程咬金起床一看，經(jīng)過一夜烘烤，燒餅里的肉油都給烤出來了，餅皮更加油潤(rùn)酥脆，全成了酥餅。這餅的香味吸引了不少人。大家見程咬金做的餅和以前大不一樣，都爭(zhēng)先恐后地品嘗。程咬金很高興，便扯著嗓子喊：“快來買呀！又香又脆的酥餅！”這一叫，買的人更多了。有的燒餅鋪主人還煞有介事地向程咬金請(qǐng)教“秘方”。程咬金哈哈大笑起來，說：“我哪有什么‘秘方呀！只不過在爐膛烤一夜而已?！?/p>

用現(xiàn)代語言把程咬金的無意之舉“翻譯”一下，就是他采用“二次烘焙法”，使得酥餅更酥脆更香，并且大大延長(zhǎng)了保質(zhì)期。

第一鄉(xiāng)愁菜

現(xiàn)在流行談“鄉(xiāng)愁”，吃貨們會(huì)說，鄉(xiāng)愁就是回憶吃家鄉(xiāng)菜。

不用評(píng)比，金華“吃講師”們一致推舉：“三月青”，當(dāng)之無愧成為金華第一鄉(xiāng)愁菜。

又會(huì)吃，又會(huì)評(píng)論的人，才有資格被封為“吃講師”，他們說得好權(quán)威。

三月青是芥菜的一種，外地幾乎很少種植，而金華地區(qū)普遍種植;三月青味微苦，外地人往往嫌其苦澀棄之。唯“金華銀”在苦澀中吃出了香味，吃出了甜味，吃上了癮。

出門在外一兩個(gè)月，回金華逛菜場(chǎng)，趕緊買來“三月青”，清洗干凈，往炒鍋里一放，頓時(shí)清香撲鼻，再放一把焯過水的千張，翻炒幾下，金華名菜“三月青炒千張”即可上桌。閉上眼輕輕一聞，那種“三月青”特有的苦味及香味沁人心脾，這才算真正回家。

金華小孩都聽過的童謠

對(duì)于金華市區(qū)的百姓，尤其是孩子，最熟悉的當(dāng)?shù)赝{莫過于那首朗朗上口的《一粒星》了：

“一粒星，咯咯釘;兩粒星，掛油瓶。油瓶漏，好炒豆。豆香，好種秧。秧無肥，好種梨。梨無核，好種大栗。大栗三層殼，好種菱角。菱角兩頭尖，敲鑼打鼓到蘭溪。蘭溪角落撮（撿）著一個(gè)破銅鈿（錢），掇得（拿給）姐姐買花線?；ň€咯咯斷，好買鴨卵（蛋）。鴨卵香，隔壁老嬤（老太婆）末里張（在那里看）;鴨卵臭，隔壁老嬤末里咒;鴨卵一個(gè)洞，隔壁老嬤末里打地洞?！?/p>

俏皮的童謠，跳躍式的聯(lián)想，由孩子看見的星星入手，轉(zhuǎn)到生活中其他的事物。后面則是典型的頂針手法，巧妙的一句一押韻，對(duì)應(yīng)金華方言的韻腳。炒豆、大栗、菱角都是最金華的食品，念著朗朗上口。最后講到鴨卵，用了詼諧的排比段落，描繪了隔壁老嬤夸張的形象，甚是可愛。

修辭高手

金華普通老百姓特別會(huì)用形容詞，用得到位，一般人做不到。

例如描述紅色，“晚霞一片紅”，阿郎金華銀不會(huì)簡(jiǎn)單說“紅”就了事，而是像個(gè)寫文章的文人，會(huì)加形容詞，“紅”成了“緋紅”，“晚霞一片緋紅”仿佛只有這樣才更能準(zhǔn)確并充分地直抒胸臆;描述“綠”，金華銀一定會(huì)說“碧綠”;描述“白”，金華銀就會(huì)說“雪白”;描述“黑”，金華銀說“墨黑”。服了吧？

有時(shí)，為了強(qiáng)調(diào)重點(diǎn)，不少婦女同志還喜歡把形容詞重復(fù)兩遍成為疊音詞，“緋紅”成了“緋緋紅”，“碧綠”成了“碧碧綠”，“雪白”成了“雪雪白”，“墨黑”成了“墨墨黑”。

真是嗲嗲的。

古老的交通規(guī)則

金華人自古就講交通規(guī)則。過去道路狹窄，交會(huì)時(shí)需讓路，金華民間就有《讓路歌》，好像紅綠燈，指導(dǎo)各色人等行路：

空手讓挑擔(dān)，輕擔(dān)讓重?fù)?dān)，

重?fù)?dān)讓大擔(dān)，大擔(dān)讓扛箱，

扛箱讓官府，官府讓新婦，

新婦讓大肚。

現(xiàn)在看來，《讓路歌》還是蠻人性化的。不干活的，給干活的讓路，干輕活的給干重活的讓路，苦力給官老爺讓路，官老爺給辦喜事的讓路，辦喜事的給懷孕的讓路。

李清照為金華寫廣告

金華銀公認(rèn)，宋朝女詞人李清照在金華時(shí)寫的一首詩，是宣傳金華的最佳廣告詞：

千古風(fēng)流八詠樓，

江山留與后人愁。

水通南國(guó)三千里，

氣壓江城十四州。

此詩以樓帶城，寫出金華的大氣魄、大格局，豪放、激昂。詩歌收入金華鄉(xiāng)土教材，朗朗上口，中小學(xué)生人人會(huì)背。

金華銀無處付廣告費(fèi)，于是在八詠樓上特地立起李清照雕像，供人憑吊，發(fā)思古之幽情。

最早的浙江人

杭州的良渚文化，寧波的河姆渡文化，和金華的上山文化一比，都顯得年輕了。

2000年，浦江縣黃宅鎮(zhèn)境內(nèi)發(fā)現(xiàn)上山遺址，2006年命名為上山文化，后迅速被列為全國(guó)重點(diǎn)文物保護(hù)單位，并建造了博物館。通過挖掘和考古研究，其成果讓人充滿自豪：“我們才是浙江人的老祖宗?！?/p>

遺址中只有80多件文物，新舊石器時(shí)代的都有，一萬年左右的歷史，件件珠璣，比寧波的河姆渡文化早了三四千年。

遺址中的稻子更是逆天，簡(jiǎn)直改寫了世界農(nóng)業(yè)史，使中國(guó)成為水稻起源地。

關(guān)鍵是上山文化很低調(diào)，一般人都不知道。

（本文配圖由傅軍杰繪）

Called Wuzhou in ancient times， Jinhua has eight counties within its jurisdiction， hence its alternative name， Bawu （“ba” meaning “eight”）. The citys mother river is Wujiang River. The locals favorite opera is Wu Opera， with the China Wu Opera Theatre being the citys most prominent cultural landmark. In the local dialect， “a lang” means “we”， used by all Jinhua people for first-person reference.

The best way to introduce Jinhua to those who know little about the city is to mention its calling card – Jinhua ham. From our experiences， chances are that you will get an “ah ha” followed by “sure I know.” And for those who still look puzzled， you can mention Yiwu， the world-famous small commodities market that is known to almost all businesspeople on this planet， and the Hengdian World Studios surely works if you have to convince someone who knows a little about the movie industry of China.

Louis Chas Ham Recipe

Many people who claim to know about the fame of Jinhua ham have the slightest idea about how to cook it properly. In ， Louis Cha invented a ham-and-tofu recipe that magically transfuses the flavor of ham into tofu through the supernatural power of Huang Rong， the heroine of the novel. The recipe caught the eye of Hong Kongs most famous food critic， Cai Lan， whose copy-and-paste of the recipe later became a signature item on the menu of Louis Chas Private Kitchen in Hong Kong.

For chefs in Jinhua， however， the recipe is too costly to follow， because the way Huang Rong uses the ham is too time-consuming to try in a real kitchen and leads to the waste of the whole chunky piece of pork. A simplified version of the recipe is to steam tofu with minced or sliced ham on it.

Jinhua Rice Wine

Jinhua rice wine is rated by Feng Shihua in his ?（written in the Ming Dynasty） as one of “the four Chinese treasures” ranking together with the calligraphy of the Jin Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty erotic classic， ， the protagonist is “donned in Hangzhou silk” and “drinks Jinhua wine”.

During the prohibition period ordained by Zhu Yuanzhang， founder of the Ming Dynasty （1368-1644）， after his troops took Wuzhou under his wing in 1385， the son of Hu Dahai， Commander of Zhejiang， yielded to the intoxicating wine made in Jinhua. “Id rather be hated and betrayed by Hu Dahai than see my order issued in the morning and countermanded at night，” Zhu Yuanzhang said no to his advisors pleading for leniency and insisted on a penalty of death of the man， regardless of the fact that his father was fighting a bloody battle against the Yuan troops. The father came back still loyal and devoted to the emperor.

The glory of Jinhua wine eventually became dust-laden. For people today， it takes a lot of exploration of authentic home-brewed Jinhua wine to sense its former brilliance.

Jinhua Crisp Cake

Jinhua Crisp Cake， ranked with Jinhua Ham and Jinhua Wine as the “three treasures of Jinhua”， is legendarily a casual invention by Cheng Yaojin， who made a living by making the sesame-flavored dried vegetable and pork cake in present-day Jinhua before joining the Sui troops and eventually becoming one of the founding generals of the Tang Dynasty （618-907）. Legend has it that one day the guy had to put the leftover of a whole days business back into the hearth so that the “su bing” could remain fresh and crisp in the lingering warmth till the next morning. The result of a whole nights toasting is a new， crisp type with a much tastier flavor and a longer shelf life that brought his business a new army of fans.

Shangshan Civilization

The Shangshan Ruins， unearthed in the outskirts of Huangzhai Town in Pujiang County， Jinhua， in 2000， proves Jinhua people have much more than the citys “three treasures” to feel proud of. Officially named “Shangshan Civilization” in 2006 and put under state-level protection， the site produced artifacts that span a history of more than 10，000 years， leaving the Liangzhu Culture in Hangzhou and Hemudu Culture in Yuyao， Ningbo far behind. The site， although known by very few outsiders， has rewritten the history of rice cultivation in China， overturning the verdict that the pre-historical China produced only millets.

Li Qingzhaos Poem

Bayong Pavilion， originally Yuanchang Pavilion， first built in 494 by Shen Yue during his tenure as a prefecture governor in Dongyang in the Southern Dynasty， is one of the most important historical sites in Jinhua. The fame of the spot is brought to its apex by Southern Song poet Li Qingzhao， who was so impressed by the grandeur of the cityscape that she wrote a poem using the name of the pavilion as the title. The character of the city as well as the pavilions daring architectural charm is so perfectly depicted in the poem that it has found its way into the local textbook and almost become the best advertising slogan of the city， for which Jinhua people rewards the poet by erecting a statue of Li Qingzhao at the site.

Traffic Rules

One of the folk songs created by Jinhua people hints at the historical origin of the locals well-observed “road manners”. The folk song explains the rules， one of which points out “the pregnant first even in case of a wedding procession”， in simple language. In this sense， it is no exaggeration to say that Jinhua people know better about making way for other people than their peers in other cities.

Masters of Rhetoric

Jinhua people are masters of rhetoric， going out of their way when it comes to using adjectives. A case in point is that the locals are never satisfied with basic adjectives describing colors. They are fastidious about precision. For example， to describe the color of sunset glow as “red” is like saying nothing at all. In Jinhua， you hear a lot of “crimson red”， “snow white”， “pitch-dark” and “emerald green”.

The “March Green”

For foodies， nostalgia is almost the pronoun of the “flavors of the hometown”. For Jinhua people， the pronoun is “March Green”， the colloquial reference to a local vegetable rarely grown outside the Jinhua region. The locals are fastidious about the bittersweet flavor of the vegetable; and the most favorite， homey way of cooking “March Green” is to deep-fry it with dried pieces of bean curd.