楊瓊

Brands can reach new audiences effectively by partnering with trusted KOL1 influences—but there are risks involved， as lipstick-loving Li Jiaqis infamous frying pan embarrassment proves. 與深受消費(fèi)者信賴的關(guān)鍵意見領(lǐng)袖合作，品牌可以有效吸粉。不過(guò)，合作有風(fēng)險(xiǎn)，令口紅一哥李佳琦尷尬的不粘鍋翻車事件就是明證。

Li Jiaqi is well-known to millions of Chinese women—from young， working professionals to high-profile2 Chinese actresses like Qi Wei and Lin Yun—but hes not a movie star or in a boy band. Hes famous for his unparalleled live-stream sales records of make-up products， especially lipsticks， which has earned him the title of “the No 1 seller of lipstick”.

“Buy it！ Buy it！ Buy it！” is Lis catchy line3， and it seems to work. Going from a beauty adviser at LOréal to a national internet celebrity with over nine million followers on Weibo in only two years， Li now earns an annual income of more than US$1.4 million （10 million yuan）. His record of selling 15，000 lipsticks within five minutes on 2018s Singles Day remains unbroken.

After last years presale Singles Day launch， Li went viral4 online over several weeks. Lis success is a good example of how luxury brands are increasingly turning to collaborations with popular internet celebrities in China for results. However， a recent video of Li advertising for a non-stick pan， which is now being called the “rollover incident”， is making consumers question his credibility.

In the video， Li called on viewers to purchase the pan， produced by Cooker King， by emphasising how eggs would not stick to the pan and having his assistant demonstrate. But， sadly， the pan failed the test miserably， as eggs stuck to the pans entire surface. The incident， which seems to have weakened Lis credibility， has sparked questions among Chinese netizens about the nature of KOLs and the live-stream medium.

Cooperating with popular live-streaming hosts to get a share of the Chinese market has certain branding advantages. “Live-streaming hosts have far better promotion skills than mainstream celebrities，” says Xintong Liu， a young female professional working in Shanghai who watches Lis live-streams regularly to purchase beauty products and clothing. “I followed Lis live-streaming because he could better explain the ingredients used in a powder or which situation each of the lipstick colours would be best in，” she explains.

KOLs also have more time to interact with their viewers than celebrities， and their live-streaming practice usually takes around six or seven hours daily， which creates a sense of intimacy between KOL and viewers. And consumers are more likely to purchase a product once some trust is built.

Though it seems to be extremely profitable working with these internet celebrities， brands need to keep a few things in mind. First of all， you want to choose a KOL whose image， personality and temperament fits your brand. “Choosing a KOL indirectly states that the brand affirms his or her style，” says Shuman Li， a Dior employee， who also said that Dior would tend to work with well-known KOLs with serious reputations rather than more humorous ones.

Additionally， in working with KOLs， marketers also need to identify if a KOL is as popular as they claim. One anonymous former employee of a well-known beauty brand expressed her frustration at working with an internet celebrity， saying that 50 per cent of their bought products were returned after a live-streaming sale. This was attributed to many of the KOLs viewers and consumers being “shui jun” （paid viewers）.

Finding a trustworthy KOL that also fits your brand name is the first step to success， but its not easy to find one as there are a limited amount of top KOLs available and they also need to be familiar with your product. A few companies have already started to train their own salespeople to become live-streaming hosts， as they already know the products well. Some Korean brands even invited Chinese KOLs to learn about their products on-site， so they could better represent their products.

從年輕職場(chǎng)白領(lǐng)到戚薇和林允等知名女星，千百萬(wàn)中國(guó)女性都熟知李佳琦。不過(guò)，他既不是電影明星，也不是男團(tuán)成員，他因刷新美妝直播銷量紀(jì)錄而聲名鵲起，更因口紅帶貨紀(jì)錄斬獲“口紅一哥”的美譽(yù)。

“買它！買它！買它！”這是李佳琦的魔性口頭禪，似乎效果不錯(cuò)。僅僅兩年，李佳琦就從歐萊雅美妝顧問變身為坐擁九百多萬(wàn)微博粉絲的國(guó)民網(wǎng)紅，年收入超140萬(wàn)美元（折合1000萬(wàn)人民幣）。2018年雙十一，李佳琦更是創(chuàng)下了5分鐘售出1.5萬(wàn)支口紅的紀(jì)錄，至今無(wú)人能出其右。

去年雙十一預(yù)售爆紅之后，李佳琦在網(wǎng)上火了幾周。李佳琦的成功很好地說(shuō)明，為提高銷量，越來(lái)越多的奢侈品品牌正轉(zhuǎn)而同中國(guó)網(wǎng)紅合作。不過(guò)，李佳琦最近的不粘鍋廣告視頻“翻車事件”，引發(fā)了消費(fèi)者對(duì)其可信度的質(zhì)疑。

視頻中，李佳琦呼吁觀眾購(gòu)買一款炊大皇不粘鍋，他強(qiáng)調(diào)這款鍋煎雞蛋不會(huì)粘，并讓助手展示。但不幸的是，試驗(yàn)悲劇性地失敗，雞蛋粘得滿鍋底都是。此次直播翻車事件似乎削弱了李佳琦的可信度，觸發(fā)中國(guó)網(wǎng)友質(zhì)疑意見領(lǐng)袖和直播媒體的本質(zhì)。

和當(dāng)紅直播主播合作在中國(guó)市場(chǎng)分一杯羹，確實(shí)能帶來(lái)一定的品牌宣傳優(yōu)勢(shì)?！爸辈ブ鞑サ臓I(yíng)銷技巧遠(yuǎn)勝于主流明星?！眲⑿劳ㄒ糇g）說(shuō)。劉欣桐是在上海工作的一名年輕職業(yè)女性，她定期收看李佳琦的直播購(gòu)買美妝產(chǎn)品和服飾。“我追李佳琦的直播是因?yàn)樗芨玫亟忉屢豢罘埏灥某煞?，能說(shuō)清楚每款口紅色號(hào)適用的最佳場(chǎng)合。”她解釋道。

同時(shí)，較之普通明星，意見領(lǐng)袖花費(fèi)更多的時(shí)間和觀眾互動(dòng)，每天的直播時(shí)長(zhǎng)一般可達(dá)六七個(gè)小時(shí)，這能讓他們和觀眾之間形成一種親近感。一旦建立起一定的信任，觀眾購(gòu)買產(chǎn)品的可能性就會(huì)大幅提高。

雖然與網(wǎng)紅合作似乎非常有利可圖，但品牌公司需要記住幾件事情。首先，需要選擇形象、性格和氣質(zhì)均契合品牌的意見領(lǐng)袖。“品牌選擇一位意見領(lǐng)袖就是間接表明認(rèn)可其風(fēng)格。”迪奧員工李舒曼（音譯）說(shuō)。她還說(shuō)，迪奧傾向于選擇正經(jīng)做營(yíng)銷而非插科打諢的知名意見領(lǐng)袖。

此外，和意見領(lǐng)袖合作，營(yíng)銷商還需確認(rèn)他們的帶貨能力是否名副其實(shí)。一位不愿透露姓名的某知名美妝品牌前員工表達(dá)了對(duì)網(wǎng)紅合作的失望。她指出，有一次網(wǎng)絡(luò)直播銷售結(jié)束后，半數(shù)售出產(chǎn)品都被退回，原因是這位意見領(lǐng)袖的觀眾和客戶大都是“水軍”（受雇觀看視頻的托兒）。

找到一位值得信賴并契合品牌聲譽(yù)的意見領(lǐng)袖是成功的第一步，不過(guò)要找到這樣一位意見領(lǐng)袖并不容易，因?yàn)轫敿?jí)意見領(lǐng)袖為數(shù)不多，更何況還得要熟悉品牌產(chǎn)品。鑒于營(yíng)銷人員早已熟知本公司產(chǎn)品，少數(shù)公司已經(jīng)開始培訓(xùn)內(nèi)部營(yíng)銷人員成為直播主播。一些韓國(guó)品牌甚至邀請(qǐng)中國(guó)的意見領(lǐng)袖實(shí)地了解旗下產(chǎn)品，從而更好地為產(chǎn)品代言。? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? □

（譯者單位：寧波大學(xué)、西安外國(guó)語(yǔ)大學(xué)）